[Public-list] Redoing Teak in Hatches and Seat Tops (PICS)

JOHN GRAVES jg1111 at msn.com
Mon Dec 12 10:50:46 PST 2005


Here are pictures of my new companionway sliding hatch and drop boards. They are made of solid burmese teak, very old slow growth natural teak. The boards are joined by internal splines of the same teak with the grain running perpendicular to the grain of the boards they are joining. It is very, very heavy and very strong. I will weigh it when I get a chance.
I hope you are able to access these pictures. I have been trying to figure out how to send pics to a list like this. If it does not work then any tips would be apreceated. Click on the link below.

http://www.snapfish.com/share/p=644111134342355044/l=70634062/otsc=SYE/otsi=SALB<http://www.snapfish.com/share/p=644111134342355044/l=70634062/otsc=SYE/otsi=SALB>


John

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Peter Staehling<mailto:staehpj1 at yahoo.com> 
  To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all<mailto:public-list at alberg30.org> 
  Sent: Tuesday, November 29, 2005 11:45 AM
  Subject: Re: [Public-list] Redoing Teak in Hatches and Seat Tops


  I would love to see some pictures.

  --- JOHN GRAVES <jg1111 at msn.com<mailto:jg1111 at msn.com>> wrote:

  > Creating dir /root/tmp
  > Can't create /root/tmp, let's try /tmp/
  >    Roger,
  > 
  >    I  just  got finished rebuilding the main hatch
  > cover and hatch boards
  >    in  my boat. It is made of solid burmese teak.
  > They came out great and
  >    should  last  100  years. I took some pictures
  > and if you would like I
  >    will get them to you. I am in Brazil right now
  > but should be back home
  >    next week. I can post them then.
  > 
  >    John
  >       
  >
  ______________________________________________________________
  > 
  >      From:  Gordon Laco <mainstay at csolve.net<mailto:mainstay at csolve.net>>
  >      Reply-To:  Alberg    30    Public    List    --
  >    open    to   all
  >      <public-list at alberg30.org<mailto:public-list at alberg30.org>>
  >      To:  Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
  >      <public-list at alberg30.org<mailto:public-list at alberg30.org>>
  >      Subject:  Re: [Public-list] Redoing Teak in
  > Hatches and Seat Tops
  >      Date:  Mon, 28 Nov 2005 11:08:06 -0500
  >      >Hello Roger -
  >      >
  >      >I  would  suggest  that  creating  places to
  > stack gear on deck is
  >      generally to
  >      >be avoided.  Similarly, you will generally
  > avoid going up and down
  >      the deck
  >      >on  the  leeward side while under weigh unless
  > there  is something
  >      down there
  >      >that needs particular attention (genny track
  > adjustments etc)
  >      >
  >      >On  the  windward side having the rails
  > inboard is a good thing as
  >      it widens
  >      >your  stance  when  moving  forward and aft.
  > We have not found the
  >      handrail in
  >      >its  normal  position  to  be  uncomfortable
  > to sit on.  I have on
  >      occasion
  >      >considered  adding  rails  on  the  forward
  > (lower) section of the
  >      coach roof but
  >      >I  guess  since you can hang onto the shrouds
  > up there we have not
  >      done it.
  >      >
  >      >Our  main  source  of  crew security are the
  > jacklines that run up
  >      each side of
  >      >deck.  Aboard  Surprise  they go from the life
  > line stanchion base
  >      abreast the
  >      >main  sheet winches up through the cleats on
  > the foredeck and back
  >      down the
  >      >other  side.  We  use  red  1/2" dacron
  > braided rope with the core
  >      stripped out.
  >      >Nothing  else  in  the rig is red and nothing
  > else is flat; so the
  >      potential
  >      >for  mistakes  clipping  on are minimized.  I
  > used wire on my last
  >      boat but
  >      >wire rolls under foot and we wanted to
  > eliminate that hazard.
  >      >
  >      >Well - there is a rambling response...
  >      >
  >      >Gord #426 Surprise
  >      >
  >      >
  >      >
  >      >
  >      >
  >      >
  >      >
  >      > > Gord & Pete,
  >      > >
  >      >  >  I got some great Burmese teak from Steve
  > at 401 253 3620  (an
  >      importer in
  >      >  >  Jew Jersey).  I paid about $14 per board
  > foot.   I believe it
  >      came in 8/4
  >      >  >  thickness  and  I had it cut and planed
  > down to mostly 5/8. I
  >      learned the hard
  >      >  >  way  there is allot of junk out there. 
  > His stuff is the real
  >      deal.
  >      > >
  >      >  > I used some of it to replace the Plexiglas
  > tops in the forward
  >      and lazarette
  >      > > hatches (using original teak frames).  Some
  > day I would like to
  >      laminate
  >      >  >  teak  strips on the plywood main hatch
  > and build a teak cover
  >      into which the
  >      > > hatch slides when open (I know that thing
  > has a name).
  >      > >
  >      > > In the "related but not relevant"
  > department, one thought is to
  >      integrate
  >      > > fore/aft grab rails onto outboard sides of
  > the cover that would
  >      extend
  >      >  >  forward  past  the  cover  and  slope
  > down to the lower cabin
  >      top.  This would
  >      >  >  form  the sides of a "tray" to stow stuff
  > (sail bags normally
  >      stowed in
  >      >  > forward cabin while under way). 
  > Eliminating the original grab
  >      rail, which
  >      >  >  runs  at  about the middle of the space
  > between the hatch and
  >      outboard edge of
  >      > > the cabin, would make the cabin top a
  > better seat and eliminate
  >      that lower
  >      >  >  mid  thigh  welt.  I  don't know if it
  > would help or hurt the
  >      ergonomics of
  >      >  >  using the grab rails while healed over. 
  > It would probably be
  >      better to have
  >      >  >  the  leeward  rails  more  inboard  but 
  > harder  to  reach if
  >      transiting the
  >      > > windward deck.
  >      > >
  >      > > Roger
  >      > >
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