[Public-list] Cockpit comings.

Tue Dec 20 03:53:57 PST 2005

John, It worked out fine, the cost was considerably less than teak. It is
hard and heavy but it will last and last. I cut the entire toe rail on
curved to match the boat, no bending. I did use teak plugs which match well.
The rub rail is a double step with a small wear strip. I tried a few methods
for the topcoat oil, varnish but cetol seems to hold the best. This wood is
hard so there is little that get's into the pours. My son is also using this
on his Out Island 33. I have a rear seat area on the stern which has Ipe as
the seats this gets direct sun, again cetol holds better. Joel	

-----Original Message-----
From: public-list-bounces at alberg30.org
[mailto:public-list-bounces at alberg30.org] On Behalf Of JOHN GRAVES
Sent: Monday, December 19, 2005 5:49 PM
To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
Subject: Re: [Public-list] Cockpit comings.

Joel,
How did the ipe work out? Did you finish it with anything? Has it faded or
turned gray or cracked? I am really interested in this wood for boats. I am
in Brazil several times a year and I do some importing. I know a guy with a
sawmill and I spoke with him about it. He has several types of wood that he
believes will be used in the future as substitutes for teak and mahagony'
etc. on boats. He said the ipe did not have long fibers and would not be
great for strutural things because it may crack. I find it a very hard,
heavy, and beautiful dark wood that seems to be strong. It is being used a
lot on outdoor decks these days. Let me know what you think and how it has
been holding up. A picture would be great if you could.
Thanks,
John (Trelawney #15)
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Joel Lembo<mailto:jlembo at scwwa.org> 
  To: 'Alberg 30 Public List -- open to
all'<mailto:public-list at alberg30.org> 
  Sent: Monday, December 19, 2005 3:15 PM
  Subject: RE: [Public-list] Cockpit comings.

  Try calling Ackerson-Stevens inc. in ware shoals, south Carolina.
  1-800-677-1617. They will ups. Ask for a product list. I used ipe for my
toe
  rail and rub rail on 449. This is cheaper and harder than teak. Joel.

  -----Original Message-----
  From:
public-list-bounces at alberg30.org<mailto:public-list-bounces at alberg30.org>
  [mailto:public-list-bounces at alberg30.org] On Behalf Of Mike Lehman
  Sent: Monday, December 19, 2005 10:18 AM
  To: public-list at alberg30.org<mailto:public-list at alberg30.org>
  Subject: RE: [Public-list] Cockpit comings.

  Instead of plywood, why not consider some composite materials that are 
  impervious to water absorption. I think you would be very unhappy in a few

  years with plywood coamings. Coosa board could be used as the core
material 
  that you could fiberglass over and make new coamings that would be very 
  strong and last forever.

  http://www.coosacomposites.com/<http://www.coosacomposites.com/>

  Mike Lehman
  ~~~_/)_/)~~_/)~~~

  ----Original Message Follows----
  From: "Joe" <jtokarz499 at myacc.net<mailto:jtokarz499 at myacc.net>>
  Reply-To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
<public-list at alberg30.org<mailto:public-list at alberg30.org>>
  To: "'Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all'"
<public-list at alberg30.org<mailto:public-list at alberg30.org>>
  Subject: RE: [Public-list] Cockpit comings.
  Date: Sun, 18 Dec 2005 22:22:47 -0500

  I think I used Philippine Mahogany for most of my projects. I went into
  the nearest wood store and said, "Give me some Mahogany." I bought
  whatever was cheapest. When sanded and sealed with Cetol, you can hardly
  tell the difference. Everything wears well with Cetol.

  If you absolutely want to get rid the wood combings, then you might as
  well make new ones out of King Starboard. You can shape it easily with
  hand tools, and you'll never have to paint or glass over it. I think it
  comes in all kinds of colors. You could choose black, or maybe even
  blue.

  Or , if you're not a purist, you could make your combings out of sheet
  metal, or aluminum flashing. You might try a 1/4" thick piece of
  aluminum. You could drill different size holes in it to give it that
  space-age look. Then just buff it out each season. You could attach all
  kinds of things to it like extra blocks, or jacklines. Although it would
  be like sitting in a frying pan on a sunny day.

  -----Original Message-----
  From:
public-list-bounces at alberg30.org<mailto:public-list-bounces at alberg30.org>
  [mailto:public-list-bounces at alberg30.org] On Behalf Of Jonathan
  Whittingham
  Sent: Sunday, December 18, 2005 9:23 PM
  To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
  Subject: Re: [Public-list] Cockpit coamings.

  George Dinwiddie wrote:

   > Jonathan Whittingham wrote:
   >
   >>     1. The coamings are attached with bolts that "disappear" into the

   >> space bewtween the deck and the underside of the locker. There
   >> appears to be a cavity in there that now has the nut that must have
   >> dropped off when I unscrewed the bolt. Hmmm! What recomendations for
   >> re-attachement? I am thinking about drilling say a one inch hole from

   >> below into that cavity right where the horizontal hole will be to
   >> pull the new boards into place, so that I can slip a washer and nut
   >> in there.
   >
   >
   > I'm not sure what cavity you mean.  On Calypso, #543, the nuts are
   > mostly accessible by reaching up inside the locker.  There are a few
   > that were embedded in the layup, but not in a cavity.

       Well. George, trust me on this one. It would appear that there is
  indeed a second layup from the hull to the topside of the cockpit sides,

  thus creating a cavity and my lost nuts.

   >
   >>    2. I am considering rebuilding the coamings out of marine grade
   >> plywood and fibreglassing them before installing them. Aside from
   >> possible aesthetic protests from the purist faction, what opinions
   >> about this method?  Any other suggestions.
   >
   >
   > Having used glassed plywood to make some El Toro rudders, I think
   > you'll find that much more work than doing the job right with a
   > board.  If the cost of teak or mahogany is what's giving you pause, I
   > would fall back on "Chesapeake Teak" (pressure treated yellow pine)
   > before plywood.  You might also find that you can rejuvenate the
   > original coamings with a little ingenuity.

           Actually, after seeing the splits I have concludede that
  plywood, whilst I agree the extra work is, well, extra, that the plywood

  will be a whole lot stronger as long as it retains water repulsion.
  However what kind of Mahogany are you proposing? On theWest Coast
  purpleheart is gaining some popularity as a replacement for teak. I am
  told that it wears the elements just about as well, probably better than

  Mahogany and costs a fraction of teak. Regards Jonathan

   >
   >  - George
   >

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