[Public-list] Re: Public-list Digest, Vol 366, Issue 1

Bill Brink bill.brinks at sbcglobal.net
Sun May 8 10:38:44 PDT 2005


----- Original Message -----
From: <public-list-request at alberg30.org>
To: <public-list at alberg30.org>
Sent: Sunday, May 08, 2005 5:43 AM
Subject: Public-list Digest, Vol 366, Issue 1


> Send Public-list mailing list submissions to
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>
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>
> Please do NOT include the entire digest in your reply!
> ======================================================
>
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
>    1. Re: spark plug heat ranges (Gordon White)
>    2. Weeping water tank-  Follow up question (andymshaw at juno.com)
>    3. danged ass beam repair (Patty J)
>    4. Re: danged ass beam repair (George Dinwiddie)
>    5. Re: Public-list Digest, Vol 365, Issue 1 (Bill Brink)
>    6. Jack Stands (Coolray)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Sat, 07 May 2005 13:05:21 -0400
> From: Gordon White <gewhite at crosslink.net>
> Subject: [Public-list] Re: spark plug heat ranges
> To: public-list at alberg30.org
> Message-ID: <427CF551.5040507 at crosslink.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
>
> The heat range is determined essentially by the distance from the tip of
> the white ceramic center insulator to the metal shell of the plug. The
> longer the distance heat has to travel before it bleeds off into metal,
> the hotter the plug. Hot plugs burn off  oil or other fouling, however
> too hot and the ceramic melts, getting so hot it ignites the incoming
> fuel charge before the spark fires. This can do great damage to an
> engine. (detonation) though I somehow doubt an A-4 is subject to much
> detonation. Same thing with too-low fuel octane: it ignites too soon or
> burns to rapidly (explodes). Ignition in a cylinder is supposed to be
> burning, not an explosion.
>
>     In my  18 mm race engine plugs the insulators are much larger in
> diameter than in modern 14 mm or 10 mm plugs and the distance from the
> tip to the metal is only a couple of mm. MUCH cooler than most of the
> plugs you will see today.
>
>     Generally detonation only occurs at full-throttle. In a
> manual-transmission car it is most likely when you floor it in top gear.
> That puts the most pressure in the cylinder.
>
> Recently I put clean plugs in my Honda - just ordinary plugs recommended
> for the car at the NAPA store. But they were too hot. The car did not
> run well and when I looked at the plugs after a few hundred miles of
> long-distance  high speed Interstate driving the insulators were very
> badly eroded/melted. That can also happen from running too lean a fuel
> mixture.  I put in a range cooler plugs and all was well.
>
> - Gordon White
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Sat, 7 May 2005 22:38:25 GMT
> From: "andymshaw at juno.com" <andymshaw at juno.com>
> Subject: [Public-list] Weeping water tank-  Follow up question
> To: public-list at alberg30.org
> Message-ID: <20050507.153916.19938.130910 at webmail04.lax.untd.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain
>
>
> Thanks for the input on the water tank problem. I have gotten the top
initially scraped and cleaned up. George had mentioned pulling the metal top
to clean, seal and rebed. I had already removed the "seat panel" (between
the bunk) thus exposing the aft center section of the riveted joint. Does
the whole center v-berth framing have to be removed or is there enough flex
in the metal to wiggle it out of there?
> Thanks again.
>
> Andy Shaw
> #477
>
> P.S. Who is the keeper of the updated maintenance manuals? Mine I believe
is quite old and I would like to get a new one.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Sat, 7 May 2005 20:58:10 -0500
> From: Timbuktu5555 at webtv.net (Patty J)
> Subject: [Public-list] danged ass beam repair
> To: public-list at alberg30.org
> Message-ID: <29957-427D7232-269 at storefull-3216.bay.webtv.net>
> Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII
>
> George,
> Yep, there's a big "dimple" behind and infront of the mast .  It's been
> there since I bought the boat.  Worried about it since then.  Also had a
> starboard bulkhead replaced about 2 months ago, the whole danged thang.
> Port bulkhead is fine.  However, the mast is still trying it's way
> through the deck.  I still don't understand why the wonderful aluminum
> beams won't work in me whittle wonderful boat?
> Patty
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Sat, 07 May 2005 22:21:54 -0400
> From: George Dinwiddie <gdinwiddie at alberg30.org>
> Subject: Re: [Public-list] danged ass beam repair
> To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all <public-list at alberg30.org>
> Message-ID: <427D77C2.1070608 at alberg30.org>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
>
> Between the layers of fiberglass in the deck, there's a layer of balsa
> core.  I'd guess that water has gotten into the core and rotted the balsa.
>
> Patty J wrote:
> > George,
> > Yep, there's a big "dimple" behind and infront of the mast .  It's been
> > there since I bought the boat.  Worried about it since then.  Also had a
> > starboard bulkhead replaced about 2 months ago, the whole danged thang.
> > Port bulkhead is fine.  However, the mast is still trying it's way
> > through the deck.  I still don't understand why the wonderful aluminum
> > beams won't work in me whittle wonderful boat?
> > Patty
>
> --
>   ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>    When I remember bygone days                         George Dinwiddie
>    I think how evening follows morn;            gdinwiddie at alberg30.org
>    So many I loved were not yet dead,           http://www.Alberg30.org
>    So many I love were not yet born.
>                                              'The Middle' by Ogden Nash
>   ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Sat, 7 May 2005 20:36:53 -0700
> From: "Bill Brink" <bill.brinks at sbcglobal.net>
> Subject: [Public-list] Re: Public-list Digest, Vol 365, Issue 1
> To: <public-list at alberg30.org>
> Message-ID: <005a01c5537f$2dacd2a0$0301a8c0 at brinks>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <public-list-request at alberg30.org>
> To: <public-list at alberg30.org>
> Sent: Saturday, May 07, 2005 9:00 AM
> Subject: Public-list Digest, Vol 365, Issue 1
>
>
> > Send Public-list mailing list submissions to
> > public-list at alberg30.org
> >
> > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> > http://alberg30.org/mailman/listinfo/public-list
> > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> > public-list-request at alberg30.org
> >
> > You can reach the person managing the list at
> > public-list-owner at alberg30.org
> >
> > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> > than "Re: Contents of Public-list digest..."
> >
> >
> > Please do NOT include the entire digest in your reply!
> > ======================================================
> >
> >
> >
> > Today's Topics:
> >
> >    1. Re: Deck Beam Repair Question - What is the load (Don Campbell)
> >    2. A4 Spark plugs RJ8C versus RJ12C (Bob Crinion)
> >    3. Re: A4 Spark plugs RJ8C versus RJ12C (Dave Terrell)
> >    4. RE: Deck Beam Repair on #461 (Mike Lehman)
> >    5. RE: A4 Spark plugs RJ8C versus RJ12C (Mike Lehman)
> >    6. Re: Deck Beam Repair on #461 (Don Campbell)
> >    7. Re: Re: Polar diagrams (Roger L Kingsland)
> >    8. Re: Deck Beam Repair on #461 (George Dinwiddie)
> >
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 1
> > Date: Fri, 06 May 2005 11:48:56 -0400
> > From: Don Campbell <dk.campbell at sympatico.ca>
> > Subject: Re: [Public-list] Deck Beam Repair Question - What is the
> > load
> > To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all <public-list at alberg30.org>
> > Message-ID: <427B91E7.8DF2AE8B at sympatico.ca>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> >
> >
> >
> >     Some of you may remember that the Aussies had an America's Cup boat
> break up
> > and sink on the West Coast about 11 years ago now, during the Louis
> Vuitton
> > races. The boat broke in two amidships and sank in less than 3 minutes.
> Sailing
> > World did a story on that sinking and as I recall, the loading on that
> hull was
> > calculated using the moments of the boat length.
> >     What most of us tend to forget is that the forces must balance and
the
> > resultant is 0. We really have a big, inverted "w" effect on a boat with
> the
> > deck beam pushing up, mast pushing down, stays pulling up, and boat hull
> holding
> > down. Thus whatever force is downward on the mast and upward by the deck
> beam,
> > or upward on the stay and downward by the hull  must be equal and
> opposite.  The
> > principles of leverage enter the picture because the stays are not at
the
> base
> > of the mast . Thus the pull, particularly from the fore and aft stays
must
> also
> > include the moment of the distance along the deck from the mast to the
> > chainplate. The forestay tension is multiplied by 10.5 feet and the
> backstay
> > tension is multiplied by19 feet to determine the force on the hull and
> hence the
> > deck beam. Similarly, sidestay tension is multiplied by 4 feet.
> >     I have the feeling that the force to multiply by 4 as suggested
> earlier in
> > this chain is much larger than you have determined thus far.
> >     Sailing World calculated the force at over 500,000 lbs on the Aussie
> hull
> > when she broke when fore and aftstay tension was at 20,000 lbs and thus
> mast
> > compression due to fore and aftstays only,  was 40,000 lbs. (Sailing
World
> May
> > 1995). Weather conditions at the time were average windspeed at 15.89
> knots,
> > gusts to 21 knots and waves just over 5 feet. Three other boats were
> damaged in
> > the same conditions: Stars and Stripes lost her mainsail, Mighty Mary
> cracked
> > her forward ring frame and delaminated her hull and the French boat lost
> her
> > mast when a spreader endfitting failed.
> >     It would appear as if the calculated compression on the mast is the
> > arithmetic sum of the tension in all stays. Thus if all stays average
1200
> lbs,
> > that would get to 9600 lbs of mast compression before shock loading. A
> factor of
> > 4 gets to required support of 38,000 lbs without consideration for the
> span
> > underneath without support. With consideration for shock loading and
> unsupported
> > moment  on the deck beam,  50,000 lbs does not seem unreasonable.
Rankin's
> > reinforcement has not failed yet, so far as we know.
> >     As an aside, I have never seen any advantage to having a rig so
tight
> it
> > forced the mast through the deck. I have been much more a proponent of
> some of
> > the dinghy rigs that have totally relaxed rigging and that then develop
> sail
> > shape and change rake with the controls available on the boat. While
> dinghies
> > can bend masts, not us! Pointing ability while in the speed groove is
> something
> > we all need to tune for our own boat because of the wide variability in
> control
> > equipment.
> >     What we do to hull to deck joints and chainplate knees is another
> whole
> > story if we reconsider the effect of the moments on aluminum deck rivets
> and
> > 1/4" bolts.
> > Don # 528
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 2
> > Date: Fri, 06 May 2005 12:54:08 -0300
> > From: Bob Crinion <bob at fox.nstn.ca>
> > Subject: [Public-list] A4 Spark plugs RJ8C versus RJ12C
> > To: Alberg30 <public-list at alberg30.org>
> > Message-ID: <40adti$1qfqb5 at ip04.eastlink.ca>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
> >
> > Hi All,
> >
> > What is the difference between Champion spark plug RJ8C and Champion
RJ12C
> >
> > If you look at NGK plugs the BR6S cross references to the Champion RJ8C
> and
> > RJ12C.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bob
> > A30 #560
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 3
> > Date: Fri, 06 May 2005 12:12:02 -0400
> > From: "Dave Terrell" <DTERRELL at message.nmc.edu>
> > Subject: Re: [Public-list] A4 Spark plugs RJ8C versus RJ12C
> > To: <public-list at alberg30.org>
> > Message-ID: <s27b5f1a.054 at N6.NMC.EDU>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
> >
> > I understand that 12s burn hotter  - so the A4 likes them better,
performs
> better.
> >
> > >>> bob at fox.nstn.ca 05/06/05 11:54 AM >>>
> > Hi All,
> >
> > What is the difference between Champion spark plug RJ8C and Champion
RJ12C
> >
> > If you look at NGK plugs the BR6S cross references to the Champion RJ8C
> and
> > RJ12C.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bob
> > A30 #560
> > _______________________________________________
> > Public-list mailing list
> > Public-list at alberg30.org
> > http://alberg30.org/mailman/listinfo/public-list
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 4
> > Date: Fri, 06 May 2005 12:50:08 -0400
> > From: "Mike Lehman" <sail_505 at hotmail.com>
> > Subject: RE: [Public-list] Deck Beam Repair on #461
> > To: public-list at alberg30.org
> > Message-ID: <BAY9-F152334DDAE28928119DAA1B71B0 at phx.gbl>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
> >
> > Patty,
> >
> > You boat has a liner and does not have a exposed wooden beam. The beam
in
> > your boat is actually an aluminim box beam embedded in the deck line.
The
> > repair by having the aluminum plates to sister the beam are only for the
> > wooden beams found on the older boats. I hope that clears it up. Then on
> to
> > how to fix your problem remains a mystery to us. Maybe someone else has
> some
> > ideas.
> >
> >
> >
> > Mike Lehman
> > ~~~_/)_/)~~_/)~~~
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ----Original Message Follows----
> > From: Timbuktu5555 at webtv.net (Patty J)
> > Reply-To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
<public-list at alberg30.org>
> > To: Public-list at alberg30.org
> > Subject: [Public-list] Deck Beam Repair on #461
> > Date: Fri, 6 May 2005 10:09:45 -0500
> >
> > About a year ago I mentioned that I had some mast compression problems
> > on #461 and was told the aluminum beams would not work on my boat.  Why
> > is this?  My boat repair man would ally like to reinforce with those
> > beams as soon as possible if it is possible.
> >
> > Patty
> > Timbuktu #461
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Public-list mailing list
> > Public-list at alberg30.org
> > http://alberg30.org/mailman/listinfo/public-list
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 5
> > Date: Fri, 06 May 2005 12:55:49 -0400
> > From: "Mike Lehman" <sail_505 at hotmail.com>
> > Subject: RE: [Public-list] A4 Spark plugs RJ8C versus RJ12C
> > To: public-list at alberg30.org
> > Message-ID: <BAY9-F8D2DAF64C991D7AD705C8B71B0 at phx.gbl>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
> >
> > go to http://www.championsparkplugs.com/sparkplug411.asp and click on
> > 'Manfucacture's Numbering System" at the left bottom of the page. This
> will
> > bring up a chart showing you how the numbering systm is devised. The "8"
> or
> > "12" refers to both the application and the heat range. The higher
numbers
> > are hotter plugs.
> >
> >
> >
> > Mike Lehman
> > ~~~_/)_/)~~_/)~~~
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ----Original Message Follows----
> > From: Bob Crinion <bob at fox.nstn.ca>
> > Reply-To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
<public-list at alberg30.org>
> > To: Alberg30 <public-list at alberg30.org>
> > Subject: [Public-list] A4 Spark plugs RJ8C versus RJ12C
> > Date: Fri, 06 May 2005 12:54:08 -0300
> >
> > Hi All,
> >
> > What is the difference between Champion spark plug RJ8C and Champion
RJ12C
> >
> > If you look at NGK plugs the BR6S cross references to the Champion RJ8C
> and
> > RJ12C.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bob
> > A30 #560
> > _______________________________________________
> > Public-list mailing list
> > Public-list at alberg30.org
> > http://alberg30.org/mailman/listinfo/public-list
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 6
> > Date: Fri, 06 May 2005 14:05:48 -0400
> > From: Don Campbell <dk.campbell at sympatico.ca>
> > Subject: Re: [Public-list] Deck Beam Repair on #461
> > To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all <public-list at alberg30.org>
> > Message-ID: <427BB1FC.4D7C3B02 at sympatico.ca>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> >
> > There is a balsa cored deck under the mast step above the aluminum deck
> beam
> > which has probably sagged due to mast compression. Take the mast step
off.
> Cut
> > off the deck top ( just the one layer on top)  under the mast step and
> sort out
> > that problem with thickened epoxy, relace  the deck piece, the mast
step,
> restep
> > mast and keep on sailing.
> > Don #528
> >
> > Mike Lehman wrote:
> >
> > > Patty,
> > >
> > > You boat has a liner and does not have a exposed wooden beam. The beam
> in
> > > your boat is actually an aluminim box beam embedded in the deck line.
> The
> > > repair by having the aluminum plates to sister the beam are only for
the
> > > wooden beams found on the older boats. I hope that clears it up. Then
on
> to
> > > how to fix your problem remains a mystery to us. Maybe someone else
has
> some
> > > ideas.
> > >
> > > Mike Lehman
> > > ~~~_/)_/)~~_/)~~~
> > >
> > > ----Original Message Follows----
> > > From: Timbuktu5555 at webtv.net (Patty J)
> > > Reply-To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
> <public-list at alberg30.org>
> > > To: Public-list at alberg30.org
> > > Subject: [Public-list] Deck Beam Repair on #461
> > > Date: Fri, 6 May 2005 10:09:45 -0500
> > >
> > > About a year ago I mentioned that I had some mast compression problems
> > > on #461 and was told the aluminum beams would not work on my boat.
Why
> > > is this?  My boat repair man would ally like to reinforce with those
> > > beams as soon as possible if it is possible.
> > >
> > > Patty
> > > Timbuktu #461
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Public-list mailing list
> > > Public-list at alberg30.org
> > > http://alberg30.org/mailman/listinfo/public-list
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Public-list mailing list
> > > Public-list at alberg30.org
> > > http://alberg30.org/mailman/listinfo/public-list
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 7
> > Date: Fri, 6 May 2005 14:55:16 -0400
> > From: "Roger L Kingsland" <rkingsland101 at ksba.com>
> > Subject: Re: [Public-list] Re: Polar diagrams
> > To: "Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all" <public-list at alberg30.org>
> > Message-ID: <009c01c5526d$24d1a880$9c00a8c0 at office.ksba>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> >
> > I have posted some polar diagrams on this site (click on "Hull lines &
> > specs").  Don't recall if they show different sail combinations.
> >
> > http://home.att.net/~jinnii/roger/perfect/pi_designs.html
> > Roger Kingsland
> > Managing Partner
> > KSBA Architects
> > N40°- 27.83'  W79°- 57.99'
> >
> > (412) 252-1500 x101 office
> > (412) 779-5101 cell
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <5thseason at canada.com>
> > To: <public-list at alberg30.org>
> > Sent: Thursday, May 05, 2005 9:05 AM
> > Subject: Re: [Public-list] Re: Polar diagrams
> >
> >
> > > On Thu, 05 May 2005 12:58:04 +0000
> > > (America/Los_Angeles), 5thseason at canada.com wrote:
> > > Sorry for the 2 blanks, I was trying to compose an
> > > E-mail.
> > >
> > > Here is that E-mail request.
> > > Does anyone have polar diagrams for the sails on a 30.
> > > I need info on a 150% Genoa and a 170% sail, any help
> > > would be appreciated.
> > > John Boor
> > > MAHSEER #380
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > _______________________________________________
> > > > Public-list mailing list
> > > > Public-list at alberg30.org
> > > > http://alberg30.org/mailman/listinfo/public-list
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Public-list mailing list
> > > Public-list at alberg30.org
> > > http://alberg30.org/mailman/listinfo/public-list
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 8
> > Date: Fri, 06 May 2005 18:02:40 -0400
> > From: George Dinwiddie <gdinwiddie at alberg30.org>
> > Subject: Re: [Public-list] Deck Beam Repair on #461
> > To: dk.campbell at sympatico.ca, Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
> > <public-list at alberg30.org>
> > Message-ID: <427BE980.1070809 at alberg30.org>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
> >
> > Joe Tokarz wrote up his experiences with this.  See
> > http://www.alberg30.org/maintenance/HullDeck/MastStepDeckRepairs/
> >
> > It's also possible that the bulkhead, itself, has sunk.  This can be due
> > to being cut undersize to start with, or due to the molded pan in the
> > boat sagging.  First check to see if there's a dimple in the deck behind
> > the mast step.
> >
> >   - George
> >
> > Don Campbell wrote:
> > > There is a balsa cored deck under the mast step above the aluminum
deck
> beam
> > > which has probably sagged due to mast compression. Take the mast step
> off. Cut
> > > off the deck top ( just the one layer on top)  under the mast step and
> sort out
> > > that problem with thickened epoxy, relace  the deck piece, the mast
> step, restep
> > > mast and keep on sailing.
> > > Don #528
> > >
> > > Mike Lehman wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > >>Patty,
> > >>
> > >>You boat has a liner and does not have a exposed wooden beam. The beam
> in
> > >>your boat is actually an aluminim box beam embedded in the deck line.
> The
> > >>repair by having the aluminum plates to sister the beam are only for
the
> > >>wooden beams found on the older boats. I hope that clears it up. Then
on
> to
> > >>how to fix your problem remains a mystery to us. Maybe someone else
has
> some
> > >>ideas.
> > >>
> > >>Mike Lehman
> > >>~~~_/)_/)~~_/)~~~
> > >>
> > >>----Original Message Follows----
> > >>From: Timbuktu5555 at webtv.net (Patty J)
> > >>Reply-To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
> <public-list at alberg30.org>
> > >>To: Public-list at alberg30.org
> > >>Subject: [Public-list] Deck Beam Repair on #461
> > >>Date: Fri, 6 May 2005 10:09:45 -0500
> > >>
> > >>About a year ago I mentioned that I had some mast compression problems
> > >>on #461 and was told the aluminum beams would not work on my boat.
Why
> > >>is this?  My boat repair man would ally like to reinforce with those
> > >>beams as soon as possible if it is possible.
> > >>
> > >>Patty
> > >>Timbuktu #461
> > >>
> > >>_______________________________________________
> > >>Public-list mailing list
> > >>Public-list at alberg30.org
> > >>http://alberg30.org/mailman/listinfo/public-list
> > >>
> > >>_______________________________________________
> > >>Public-list mailing list
> > >>Public-list at alberg30.org
> > >>http://alberg30.org/mailman/listinfo/public-list
> > >
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Sun, 8 May 2005 05:27:09 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Coolray <cooler2k at yahoo.com>
> Subject: [Public-list] Jack Stands
> To: public-list at alberg30.org
> Message-ID: <20050508122709.79898.qmail at web60624.mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
> Can anyone recommend a source for and appropriate size
> parameters for the jack stands necessary to
> support/stabilize my boat while ashore?
>
> Thank you in advance,
> J.Cooler
> Atalaya, #87
>
>
>
>
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