[Public-list] Redoing Teak in Hatches and Seat Tops
Peter Staehling
staehpj1 at yahoo.com
Tue Nov 29 08:45:22 PST 2005
I would love to see some pictures.
--- JOHN GRAVES <jg1111 at msn.com> wrote:
> Creating dir /root/tmp
> Can't create /root/tmp, let's try /tmp/
> Roger,
>
> I just got finished rebuilding the main hatch
> cover and hatch boards
> in my boat. It is made of solid burmese teak.
> They came out great and
> should last 100 years. I took some pictures
> and if you would like I
> will get them to you. I am in Brazil right now
> but should be back home
> next week. I can post them then.
>
> John
>
>
______________________________________________________________
>
> From: Gordon Laco <mainstay at csolve.net>
> Reply-To: Alberg 30 Public List --
> open to all
> <public-list at alberg30.org>
> To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
> <public-list at alberg30.org>
> Subject: Re: [Public-list] Redoing Teak in
> Hatches and Seat Tops
> Date: Mon, 28 Nov 2005 11:08:06 -0500
> >Hello Roger -
> >
> >I would suggest that creating places to
> stack gear on deck is
> generally to
> >be avoided. Similarly, you will generally
> avoid going up and down
> the deck
> >on the leeward side while under weigh unless
> there is something
> down there
> >that needs particular attention (genny track
> adjustments etc)
> >
> >On the windward side having the rails
> inboard is a good thing as
> it widens
> >your stance when moving forward and aft.
> We have not found the
> handrail in
> >its normal position to be uncomfortable
> to sit on. I have on
> occasion
> >considered adding rails on the forward
> (lower) section of the
> coach roof but
> >I guess since you can hang onto the shrouds
> up there we have not
> done it.
> >
> >Our main source of crew security are the
> jacklines that run up
> each side of
> >deck. Aboard Surprise they go from the life
> line stanchion base
> abreast the
> >main sheet winches up through the cleats on
> the foredeck and back
> down the
> >other side. We use red 1/2" dacron
> braided rope with the core
> stripped out.
> >Nothing else in the rig is red and nothing
> else is flat; so the
> potential
> >for mistakes clipping on are minimized. I
> used wire on my last
> boat but
> >wire rolls under foot and we wanted to
> eliminate that hazard.
> >
> >Well - there is a rambling response...
> >
> >Gord #426 Surprise
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > > Gord & Pete,
> > >
> > > I got some great Burmese teak from Steve
> at 401 253 3620 (an
> importer in
> > > Jew Jersey). I paid about $14 per board
> foot. I believe it
> came in 8/4
> > > thickness and I had it cut and planed
> down to mostly 5/8. I
> learned the hard
> > > way there is allot of junk out there.
> His stuff is the real
> deal.
> > >
> > > I used some of it to replace the Plexiglas
> tops in the forward
> and lazarette
> > > hatches (using original teak frames). Some
> day I would like to
> laminate
> > > teak strips on the plywood main hatch
> and build a teak cover
> into which the
> > > hatch slides when open (I know that thing
> has a name).
> > >
> > > In the "related but not relevant"
> department, one thought is to
> integrate
> > > fore/aft grab rails onto outboard sides of
> the cover that would
> extend
> > > forward past the cover and slope
> down to the lower cabin
> top. This would
> > > form the sides of a "tray" to stow stuff
> (sail bags normally
> stowed in
> > > forward cabin while under way).
> Eliminating the original grab
> rail, which
> > > runs at about the middle of the space
> between the hatch and
> outboard edge of
> > > the cabin, would make the cabin top a
> better seat and eliminate
> that lower
> > > mid thigh welt. I don't know if it
> would help or hurt the
> ergonomics of
> > > using the grab rails while healed over.
> It would probably be
> better to have
> > > the leeward rails more inboard but
> harder to reach if
> transiting the
> > > windward deck.
> > >
> > > Roger
> > >
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