[Public-list] window replacement sealant

[edward schroeder]

The black, very sticky tape that you are probably referring to is a polisobutylene. It has a release strip on one side that is wider than the tape and allows one to use one edge of the release paper to align with the glazing rabbet (groove). When the clamping action compresses the tape, it is designed to not go "out" any further than the original edge of the release paper.
 
It is used for glazing large building windows that are designed so that the inner, removable glazing bead can be screwed on from the building inside so that expensive, outside scaffolding is not required.
 
Notice that it is a poly (many) isoBUTYLene. It has a butyl basic element but it is compatible with polycarbonate (Lexan). I have used it on my side cabin windows with great success. Apply pressure on the screws slowly all the way around, getting the window frame more and more tight and squeezing the tape uniformly.
 
 I also cut a rabbet (Groove) in the wooden companionway hatch and used the tape to bed the Lexan down. I used round head wood screws with washers as fasteners approx. 2 inches all away around the opening. I torqued the screws slightly, all the way around, more and more. That is how I squeezed the tape down so that the glazing was flush with the wood top.
 
Due to the great expansion and contraction of Lexan from the sun, after the tape was squeezed, I backed off the screws so that I could feel that the washers were loose. That willallow for movement of the Lexan. I then masked the wood and applied BoatLife silicone polyester to the opening between the wood and Lexan.
 
Once you have even the SLIGHTEST silicone on a surface, it is almost impossible to apply varnish or paint. Be very careful with the edges of the cleaning rag so it doesn't touch the adjacent surfaces. Preferably, varnishing should be done before silicone glazing.
 
Ed. Schroeder #303 Emotional Rescue

Roger L Kingsland <rkingsland101 at ksba.com> wrote:
I just read the great piece on window replacement on the A30 web site (thanks for posting it George) and have a couple of questions. The author uses silicone but said some prefer 5200. Others suggested butyl rubber but Don Campbell indicated it degrades Lean. Any thoughts on what sealant is best? Has anyone heard of sealant that comes in a tape that can be placed on the frames and pressed out once the bolts are tightened?

A slick technique to avoid getting sealant on the new Plexiglas is described but there is no mention of keeping goop off the inside and outside of the cabin. I assume it is desirable to tape off these areas but also wonder if there are good sealants that can be easily removed with a solvent that doesn't damage paint? I can't even pour a cup of coffee without spilling and anticipate substantial clean up will be necessary if I am doing the job.

Thanks,

Roger

Roger Kingsland
Chief Boat Boy, Rubber/Scraper and Check Writer
Alberg 30 #148, PERFECT intentions
N40-33.92, W79-51.25
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