[Public-list] Installing new Yanmar 2GM20F and would like som e help

sousa, stephen (ENG) sousa_stephen at emc.com
Tue Oct 18 06:38:02 PDT 2005


Austin,

I am in Ipswich, MA the boat is currently on a mooring. Plans to move over
to a dock on Friday.

Stephen 

-----Original Message-----
From: public-list-bounces at alberg30.org
[mailto:public-list-bounces at alberg30.org] On Behalf Of Austin Meyermann
Sent: Tuesday, October 18, 2005 9:36 AM
To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
Subject: RE: [Public-list] Installing new Yanmar 2GM20F and would like som e
help

Where are you located? Is there any chance I could meet up with you and take
a look at your setup? I specifically would like to get measurements of where
the engine needs to sit so that I will know how to rebuild the stringers
under the engine.
 

A

"sousa, stephen (ENG)" <sousa_stephen at emc.com> wrote:
Austin,

I have the same Yanmar in #114, one recommendation install a Racor before
the Yanmar filter and also replace the motor mounts if older than 5 years
old. They do get weak and settle over time, you will need 2 -75's and 2-
100's the mount is marked in the rubber portion.

Stephen 

-----Original Message-----
From: public-list-bounces at alberg30.org
[mailto:public-list-bounces at alberg30.org] On Behalf Of Austin Meyermann
Sent: Tuesday, October 18, 2005 9:12 AM
To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
Subject: [Public-list] Installing new Yanmar 2GM20F and would like some help

I just found a new engine and lucky enough it is at my own marina.

It is a Yanmar 2GM20F and it is in an old Tartan. I am going to haul it out
here in the next few weeks.

Currently in my boat, I have an old Bukh (10hp) that I am going to remove. 

If anyone could help me install the new engine, it would be greatly
appreciated. The boat is at Young's Boatyard on Sparrows Point. I would
anticipate an install date of around mid November. 

Thanks again all!


Austin 
Inherit the Wind #56

FINNUS505 at aol.com wrote:


Here is my best description of a jackline for the luff of the main. A 
diagram in a book on sail making or rigging would probably help.

The jackline allows the sail to pull away from the mast and slides on the 
track, but still be attached to them, so that the sail slides do not have to
be 
slid off the main sail track when reefing.

A gromet is placed on the sail just above the luff cringle of the highest 
reef, either 2nd, or third, depending on what you have. A line is attached
to 
this grommet, and this line will pass through fairleads attached to each
sail 
slide below that point.

An additional grommet is put into the sail a few inches below the existing 
grommet for the luff track slides. Fairleads are seized to the now pairs of 
grommets at each sail slide site.

The jackline is reeved through all the fairleads at each sail slide site. 
The jackline goes through the top fairlead on the sail, then through the 
fairlead on the track slide, then through the bottom fairlead at each slide
site, 
and so on until the line reaches the tack of the sail. It is made fast
there, 
either to the tack shackle, or some other convenient spot there.

Hoist the sail and make the luff up to the tension you want for the current 
wind strength. Then, make the lower end of the jackline fast, pulling the
sail 
to the mast at each track slide.

When you lower the sail to reef, the jackline relaxes, and allows the sail 
to pull away from the mast, without having to let the slides off the track.

For the second or third reef, you may have to release the jackline from the 
knot at the tack to give the higher slides more room to pull away from the 
mast. Even though this means a crew has to go forward, it is still a much
more 
controled procedure than releasing the slides from the track.

If this description was incomprehensible, as it may well be, look in a 
sailmaking text for a diagram of this very useful device.

Hope this helps,
Lee

Stargazer #255
In a message dated 10/16/2005 5:53:35 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
DTERRELL at message.nmc.edu writes:

No jackline, though I am not sure of it meaning here. As the line comes down

from the block on the cringle, all you have to do is to lead it to a turning

block at the base of the mast that is positioned so it will pull the line 
forward and down. If you put the block toward the forward side of the mast,
you 
will accomplish that task.

Help me out with "jackline" in this context, Please. 

Thanks.

>>> FINNUS505 at aol.com 10/13/05 8:09 PM >>>

Great testimonial for the single line reefing system! Do you have a 
jackline 
to let the lower sail slides to pull away from the mast? Any special way 
you 
lead the halyard aft?
Thx,
Lee

In a message dated 10/10/2005 3:27:29 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
DTERRELL at message.nmc.edu writes:

I use a single line reefing system - two reefs - two lines. Very simple. no 

excess friction and no one on the cabin house - agile or otherwise. Works 
like charm.

Here is the route. The line starts at an eyestrap (or similar fitting) on 
one side of the boom, goes under the boom and up through the leech reef 
cringle 
on the sail, down the opposite side of sail to a cheek block on the 
opposite side of the boom, along the boom to an angled cheek block(the 
angle makes 
for a fair lead and reduced friction) near the mast up to the luff reef 
cringle where it goes through a block held in place by a dogbone in the 
cringle, 
down to a turing block at the base of the mast ( this block has got to 
allow 
the luff reef cringle to be pulled down and forward), and from there back 
to 
the cockpit to a winch and line stopper. 

This may seem complex on paper, but in reality it is quite simple. This 
system has immensely simplified my reefing life.




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