[Public-list] Painting teak toerails

Jay Davenport jay at saildriver.com
Tue Sep 20 08:08:26 PDT 2005


My two cents ...
 
I think Sikkens Cetol is superior to other finishes unless you are willing to do continuing maintenance. With the Sikkens, it is only necessary to recoat once a year (on the Chesapeake), and there is a "Light" version available for less color. Varnish and oil definitely look good, but the time and aggravation would reduce my sailing time.
 
Jay 

Michael Connolly <crufone at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
JohnL,
You are not going to have anyone in their right mind on this list offer you tips to paint all your teak trim. The teak is an integral part of the aesthetics of these handsome boats. Understand I don't mean to sound crass about this issue...........................I too weep when I see wonderful woodwork ruined with pigmented paint coatings.

On my Alberg and my Seafarer, both 1966 models with teak trim I plan to strip down to bare wood and apply oil coatings. This imparts a beautiful non gloss not slippery finish to the teak. In Florida it may require to be touched up once every two months. In Michigan perhaps twice a season. Touching up an oiled finish is 10 times easier and much more visually successful than attempting to touch up a spar varnish finish.

I had smaller boats with teak rails, a Thistle and my Oslojollen Daysailer. The advantage is ease of application, ease of repair to damaged areas and ease of maintenance. I once saw a New York 40 in Newport and almost peed in my pants it was so Gorgeous, miles of brightwork.

Bright work spar varnish or any of the synthetic blends is very hard to repair when damaged to make it look like anything good. Many coats are needed to provide depth to the spar varnishes, I know because my Thistle had spruce spars.

Cetol and it's partners is a total cop-out on maintaining wood trim. It really makes the trim look like plastic without any of the beautiful depth of the spar varnish.

My opinion is that the oiled trim is a good compromise between the major work of spar varnish and the fake wood look of Cetol. Painting fine teak trim is not an option for me.

Michael #133 Lorrie Rose

JohnI wrote:
The teak toerails, hatch covers, and coamings on my boat are currently
varnished. After one season in the sun, the varnish is faded and peeling.
Bare wood is starting to show in places. It is particularly bad on the
toerails. My research so far has concluded that I need to strip this down
and start over with 6-8 coats of new varnish, then apply a coat or two of
new varnish every year to keep up the protection. As much fun as this
sounds, I'm thinking that I would prefer to remove the varnish, paint the
wood, and add a coat or two of paint every 3 or 4 years. Has anyone on the
list done this? If so, I'd appreciate info on the materials and technique
you used. Thanks.
John
#284
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