[Public-list] Emergency Request for help with a part!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!...
FINNUS505 at aol.com
FINNUS505 at aol.com
Mon Sep 26 19:44:33 PDT 2005
Hey Stephen, Eddie, John,
Thx for all the advice and info. I went back to Edson and bought the rudder
post cap. Lucky I took the extra day to make my decision. The guy I spoke to
on Thursday said I had to buy the entire gooseneck fitting, both the rudder
post cap and the tiller forks, for 212.00. On Friday, he was away from his desk
when I walked in, and the guy who helped me just sold me the rudder post cap
for 105. And when he heard that I had a rudder post that was not keyed, but
drilled for a half inch bolt and that I was planning on taking the fitting to
a machinist to get it drilled out for the bolt, he offered to do the job in
his machine shop at Edson right there and then. Very nice.
Eddie, when he brought me the part, very nicely drilled and tapped, with the
nub that holds the tiller up when the part is used conventionaly nicely
ground off to make room for my bolt head, it was very obvious that the newly
drilled hole was in the middle of the outside of the fitting, but it did not
intersect the key way inside the fitting evenly. I guess the key way on many of
these fittings is not centered.
Stephen, the machinist raised a very interesting issue when we talked about
tapping the thread into the fitting, so that the locking bolt would thread
into the fitting, and then into the rudder post. He brought to my attention that
it would be nearly impossible to match the two threads exactly, so the bolt
would thread from fitting into rudder post. The Whitby boys must have tapped
the rudder post hole using the rudder cap fitting thread as a starting point.
I hadn't forseen that problem, but immidiately understood. How did you deal
with this dilemma? I thought that he should drill out the fitting with a hole
just large enough to allow the bolt to slip through it, thread and all, and
then the bolt would thread into the rudder post. The machinist recommended
that he does drill the fitting with the correct size hole to allow tapping a
thread to take the bolt, on the outside chance that it would meet the rudder
post hole's thread correctly. If it didn't, then I could drill the fitting's
thread out to allow the bolt to pass through. I thought it was worth a shot, as
long a shot as it was. As it happened, the threads did not match, and I had
to drill them out. Further, the hole in the rudder post was not exactly
perpendicular to the rudder post, which I had not noticed before, so I had to do a
further bit of grinding to the fitting hole to allow the bolt to line up
with the rudder post hole and thread. I was SOOOOO careful in all this fitting
to not mar the thread in the rudder post. Geeeez, what a nightmare that would
be.
As careful as I was to not grind out one molecule of bronze from the fitting
more than I had to, I was still uncomfortable with the security of the
fitting on the rudder post in regards to preventing the fitting from twisting
under load. When I put the fitting on the rudder post, I set the bolt in West
System Epoxy, hardened with High Density Filler. I figured, well, hoped, that
the high denisty reinforced epoxy will fill any gaps between the threads of the
bolt and the inside of the hole in the fitting. The epoxy is limited to the
space immidiately around the bolt. The bolt had enough residual grease on it,
that I will be able to break the bolt out with a long handled wrench if/when
I ever want to take the fitting off the rudder post again.
I did the job on Saturday. Because it has been a little cool here in Mass, I
wanted to give the epoxy an extra day to cure. Then today it was blowing 20
with gusts to 30. When the weather allows, I'll reship the tiller and give it
all try.
Thanks for all the helpful advice, guys. Gordon, I have a big honking vice
grips aboard if all else fails.:)
Lee
Stargazer #255
1127789073.0
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