[Public-list] Re: Public-list Digest, Vol 484, Issue 2

[Gordon Laco]

Hi again - 

I use Epiphanes too - it is nice to use and seems to last.  John, I'm sorry
I was so outspoken about the painting thing.  I guess if I was totally
logical about this stuff I wouldn't be in the traditional end of this
business. 

Stephen - you saw me at the Newport Show and will know what I mean...

Gord




> John,
> 
> We use Epiphanes Gloss on our Alberg and have had excellent results, usually
> 10-12 coats provides a nice finish. Also we never sand which removes the
> teak leading to replacement. We use a heat gun and a light sanding, between
> coats Scotch Brite does a nice job removing the shine for the next coat.
> 
> Good luck.
> 
> Stephen 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: public-list-bounces at alberg30.org
> [mailto:public-list-bounces at alberg30.org] On Behalf Of JohnI
> Sent: Tuesday, September 20, 2005 2:07 PM
> To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
> Subject: Re: [Public-list] Re: Public-list Digest, Vol 484, Issue 2
> 
> I'm not sure what kind of varnish system the PO used to finish the boat.
> What I can say is it looked nice when I bought it last Fall. After 4 months
> on the water it looks pretty ratty. By contrast, the fiberglass deck next to
> it has had nothing done to it in 40 years and it looks almost perfect.
> I should add the wood on my boat wasn't all varnished when I bought it. The
> PO had previously painted the lids of the cockpit lockers. This Spring while
> replacing the hinges, I sanded the lids down and put another coat of paint
> on them. I admit to not shedding the slightest tear when putting paint on
> that wood, and the paint has held up perfectly. Now, to me that is beautiful
> - a sort of beauty in function so to speak.
> When making my original post about this, I anticipated the response about
> covering up the beauty of the wood, etc. and one side of me completely
> agrees with that point. The *real* dilemma was revealed by Stephen and
> another who highlighted the classic beauty of the wood and hinted at our
> responsibility as temporary custodians of these classic boats to stay true
> to the design and the classic beauty inherent in it. As much as I'd like to
> just paint the toerails in favor of something more functional, I share this
> sense of responsibility, and hence my post to explore the possibilities. But
> this responsibility doesn't stop at the toerails and I frequently wonder
> where it does end. For example, what about ripping out the beautiful, but
> useless, icebox that Whitby put in the boat, or adding an access hatch in
> the cockpit that is actually usable, or bolting ugly pieces of aluminum on
> the beam under the mast step, changing the winches, adding a spray dodger,
> bimini, lifesling, radar, propane bottle, outboard motor, etc. - the list
> goes on. Trying to decide what between what's right and what's not when
> modifying or "improving" the A30 turns out to be a very difficult and
> subjective thing.
> At this point, I'm going to consider Gordon and Rachel's idea of
> revarnishing everything and perhaps painting over the varnish. That would
> protect and preserve the teak for a future A30 owner who might prefer
> varnish, and in the meantime provide me with a robust finish that's up to
> the cruising program I have planned for the boat.
> Thanks everyone for weighing in on this. If anyone has information about
> the success or otherwise of painting over varnish, I'd appreciate hearing
> about it. I have a few old pieces of teak that I'll experiment with in the
> meantime.
> John
> #284
> On 9/20/05, Gordon Laco <mainstay at csolve.net> wrote:
>> 
>> A friend of mine who is a professional boat builder sold a varnished boat
>> a
>> few years ago to a client who wanted a painted hull...so Ken worked up a
>> varnished hull and finished it with paint. That way, he told me, once he
>> was able to bring them to reason he could easily 'repair' the damage. He
>> 
>> Gord #426 Surprise
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> JohnL,
>>> I too have thought about painting the toe rail and coamings after using
>>> 3 to 4 coats of Certol (the marine vesion). But first I thought I would
>> try
>>> and use teak oil on the grab rails and companion way drop board guides.
>> They
>>> both came out really looking good. I'm not sure what your weather is
>> like but
>>> in Texas the teak oil last about 2 weeks then you must reply. It takes
>> about
>>> 10 minutes start to finish. Has anyone used Schooner varnish with
>> suscess on
>>> the toe rails or coamings?
>>> Allen
>>> A 520
>>> 
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