[Public-list] Painting teak toerails - an admission

Mike Lehman sail_505 at hotmail.com
Wed Sep 21 11:41:15 PDT 2005


I like the sound of that "Albergland' - has a nice ring to it.



Mike Lehman
~~~_/)_/)~~_/)~~~




----Original Message Follows----
From: Michael Connolly <crufone at sbcglobal.net>
Reply-To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all <public-list at alberg30.org>
To: JohnI <a30blueteal at gmail.com>,Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all 
<public-list at alberg30.org>
Subject: Re: [Public-list] Painting teak toerails - an admission
Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2005 11:24:06 -0700 (PDT)

John,
I also didn't mean to sound off as a pompous jerk about painted teak.. The 
wooden Herreshoff boats that you speak of which were painted were in a 
different time and followed a different aesthetic.  The Alberg 30 was meant 
to have some type of clear finish on the exterior wood work.  You can do as 
you wish but as I mentioned earlier no one on this list will likely follow 
suit and paint their wood trim.  The idea of varnishing first, to form a 
barrier, and prevent the top coats of pigmented paint from finding their way 
into the teak wood grain will facilitate the future return back to clear 
coating if the next owner so wished.

  I worked in the museum field for years and thus am overly sensitive to 
folks messing up/with the original intended aesthetics of an artifact.  I 
view my boats as pieces of Marine Architecture that I am lucky enough to be 
custodian of for a time.  Yes, I wish them to be seaworthy, but will live 
with their 1960's technology, so to maintain their integrity.  This is 
bizarre, to most current cruisers who wish to up grade with modern stuff.  
When I eventually get on my boat and go cruising I also wish to go back in 
time and truly enjoy what the boat was like when she was designed and built. 
  Safety is one thing, but getting there in a hurry is something else 
entirely.  Carl designed the boats to be very seaworthy.  Modern gadgets can 
be a compromise on a basic boat.  They can malfunction and let you down at 
the worst of times.  Carl's design was pretty basic and sturdy.

If I wanted a boat to be less maintenance I would have purchased something 
else besides the Alberg 30.  It I wanted the convenience of gadgets to make 
setting the sails easier and going faster then I would have purchased 
something else.  You can see where I am going.  What I really would like is 
a 1930's wooden Alden or some-such boat.  That is just such a 
dream...........only the rich few can afford a wonderful boat like that.  So 
I have most of my dream with my Alberg 30.  Infinitely more affordable and 
less costly to maintain, but with handsome looks and nice teak trim, and she 
sails like a 'wonder' with the best of them.

So there you have it.  One of the most enjoyable aspects of owning an Alberg 
30 is the dedication of this and the Canadian Group to the boat.  We are 
collectively extremely knowledgeable and most of the time tolerant of all 
the various owners who take pride in Alberg 30 ownership.  God bless my 
buddies in Albergland.

Michael
#133 Lorrie Rose


JohnI <a30blueteal at gmail.com> wrote:
I knew this would happen!

On 9/20/05, Gordon Laco wrote:
 >
 > Oh John...
 >
 > It only takes 30 minutes to lightly sand, wipe, and lay a coat of varnish
 > on
 > the teak rails of an Alberg...and that is all you have to do.
 >
 > Gordon #426 Surprise (who wept when he saw the painted rails of his old
 > boat...)
 >
 >
 >
 > > The teak toerails, hatch covers, and coamings on my boat are currently
 > > varnished. After one season in the sun, the varnish is faded and
 > peeling.
 > > Bare wood is starting to show in places. It is particularly bad on the
 > > toerails. My research so far has concluded that I need to strip this
 > down
 > > and start over with 6-8 coats of new varnish, then apply a coat or two
 > of
 > > new varnish every year to keep up the protection. As much fun as this
 > > sounds, I'm thinking that I would prefer to remove the varnish, paint
 > the
 > > wood, and add a coat or two of paint every 3 or 4 years. Has anyone on
 > the
 > > list done this? If so, I'd appreciate info on the materials and
 > technique
 > > you used. Thanks.
 > > John
 > > #284
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