[Public-list] Removal of brass temperature sensor

[cathie & john coultis]

Hi George,

With regard to the email below,  I remember my dad using penetrating oil, a
small-hammer-chisel method with success after a coulple of "applciations".
I still keep the spray container filled with penetrating oil and the hammer
and chisel onboard.  They have come in handy for other projects.  However,
we have one challenging project right now that those items can't help us
with.  Our Alberg 30 was built in 1971, #448 has the original holding tank,
which is actually apart of the liner with an aluminum cover plate located
underneath the main cabin floor.  It is in immediate need of repair (or
replacement).    We'd greatly appreciate hearing about any
experiences/remedies with this type of holding tank?

John & Cathie
Scotch Mist II
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "George Dinwiddie" <gdinwiddie at alberg30.org>
To: "Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all" <public-list at alberg30.org>
Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2006 12:17 AM
Subject: Re: [Public-list] Removal of brass temperature sensor


> David Parkes wrote:
> > Our Atomic 4 is now running beautifully with full compression and great
oil
> > pressure.  However, the temperature sensor is broken and must be
replaced.
> > Has anyone any ideas on how to remove a terribly seized brass
temperature
> > sensor bushing on the front of the block?  I have tried so much, with so
> > many tools, that the hexagonal is now rounded and the bushing has not
moved.
>
> David, I asked your question on the Atomic 4 list.  Here are some
> responses I got:
>
> ---
>
> If there's room, a pipe wrench or large channel locks would work.  Also
> try heating the block around the unit with a heat gun to expand the
> block and likely free up the unit.
>
> ---
>
> Heat, pressure, shock,  lube with some penetrating oil, then repeat the
> process two or three times.
>
> When heating, use the best torch you have. A brazing torch with map gas
> will do it. Heat the fouled item directly, not the block. The item will
> quickly dissipate it's heat to the block,
>
> Spray with penetrating oil, tap with a hammer and cold chisel, and then
> try the wrench or vice grip. Always spraying more penetrating oil and
> tapping.
>
> Do not try to free the item with one go at it. Aim for two or three or
> more heat, lube, shock, and then pressure with your wrench. You will not
> fail.
>
> The combination of the thermal expansion, the penetrating oil, the
> rapping, and the pressure from a good vice grip, repeated over and over,
> will move anything.
>
> So nice to hear that sound when you finally get her............CHEEEEEK.
>
> ---
>
> If it's as badly damaged as you say, you're going to have to drill it
> out.  Drill smaller than the thread size, and then cut the remaining
> 'bushing' with a hacksaw.
>
>    Best way to deal with those that still have some shape is with a six
> point socket.  Adjustable wrenches are just asking for trouble, and 12
> point sockets are only effective on units that aren't too badly bunged
> up.  The problem is that the brass is so soft that it just flows out of
> the way of the wrench.
>
>    DO NOT use heat!  Brass is a copper alloy and will expand MORE than
> the cast iron head, and hence get tighter.
>
> ---
>
> Temp senders that are stubborn can be removed with a sharp pipe wrench,
> provided you have enough room to swing it.
>
> ---
>
> There was a second to the notion that you NOT use heat.
>
>   - George
>
> -- 
>   ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>    When I remember bygone days                         George Dinwiddie
>    I think how evening follows morn;            gdinwiddie at alberg30.org
>    So many I loved were not yet dead,           http://www.Alberg30.org
>    So many I love were not yet born.
>                 'The Middle' by Ogden Nash
>   ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
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