[Public-list] Rudder head removal/cockpit floor

[Don Campbell]

Hi Gord;
    The rudder head is not that difficult to get off in freshwater
boats. The difficult part is to rebuild the bronze to get the hole back
to 3/8" and round. I gave mine to a machinist to fill and redrill and
the whole thing melted just as he had  finished filling things. So he
made me a stainless one. Solved the problem beautifully!
     Some penetrating oil on the system from the back where it is cut
away  for compression by the pin is good. Then,  the easy way is to use
a big fork like a tie rod end fork for trucks and just ease things off,
or put  a  flat metal piece on the floor to spread the force and use a
wide thin pry bar like a "wonderbar" (TMR) and work around the
circumference as you can, but  gently too. If you need a bit of heat,
then a small torch also works. There is a keyway in the system on the
front face, so avoid trying to take the key out at the same time. If all
that fails, support the off side to the pry with a cold chisel so
pressure up is equal and opposite.
    By the way, I used a circular saw with a diamond blade to cut the
top off the cockpit floor  and that worked really well. The new thin
diamond blades should leave a really narrow kerf to fill. The 1 1/4" or
so left on the edge, once scarfed,  makes for an easy surface to work
back up to and gives a good line for the finish. There is a bit of solid
material around the cockpit drains and so some prior thought as to how
to recess things there for the new surface, and make sure the water
drains after you finish, (with the thought process before you cut) is a
big help.  I still need to put the drain covers back on, because they
are a bit high for water flow.
    I really don't know why anyone wants to put back the old surface,
considering that polyester is not impervious to water. Epoxies are.  I
also question using plywood in the core, particularly with polyester
covers. It is heavy, has grain that supports water movement along its
length, and can itself delaminate. Masonite or balsa would be better
choices for durability in my opinion. (The core in the floor is 3/8").
Keeping things dry in the first place is the key, so make sure there are
solid epoxy areas around the inspection port/binnacle ring, and rudder
post areas.
    I also used some 6" fiberglass tape (2 layers) and did a build up
onto the cockpit sides for added strength. Covering the areas on the
sides above the tape where  you don't want epoxy adhering too is easier
than removing spills. I used Sikkens (tmr) deck paint and have not had
any slipping of feet on that surface.
Don #528