[Public-list] vacuum gauges
Randy Katz
randyk at bertschi.org
Sat Nov 25 15:56:46 PST 2006
Greetings, All, and
Way to go, Don,
Many thanks for the very useful feedback regarding installing a
Designated Engineers vac gauge between the Racor and the engine! I think
I'll hold off on putting in the gauge for now-- I'm convinced that it ain't
worth fiddling around with at this time.
I really appreciate your time in responding so completely.
Regards,
Randy Katz
#249
Seattle/Bellingham
> Message: 1
> Date: Sat, 18 Nov 2006 13:37:21 -0500
> From: Don Campbell <dk.campbell at sympatico.ca>
> Subject: Re: [Public-list] Designated Engineers vacuum gauges??
> To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all <public-list at alberg30.org>
> Message-ID: <BAYC1-PASMTP071102484D445EC5ADE52488EF0 at CEZ.ICE>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> Randy;
> If the last thing you want is air in your fuel system,( and it
> really is ), then don't put in a guage with a valve in it regardless of
> the manufacturer. I have run diesels in tractors and trucks for many
> years (none with vacuum guages on fuel lines) and the normal fuel
> filter replacement is at every 100 hours of time on the hour meter or
> 10,000 miles assuming the miles are put on over a reasonable time span
> of no more than 3 months with a bit of leeway depending on the system
> and fuel filter manufacturer. (On farm trucks that often sit for 6
> months at a time, filters are changed annually at least). Generally,
> every 100 hours on the motor is not often enough on a sail boat
> regardless of vacuum pressure, because the time factor is usually just
> too long, unless you are doing a very extensive amount of motoring, and
> then it could be changed every 100 hours. A fuel filter element should
> be changed annually at a minimum, regardless of how many hours or how
> much fuel goes through the element for safety sake - safety that the
> element does not break down and safety that every time, it is filtering
> all and any water and particulate matter from the tank and particularly
> from a half filled tank.
> There are three things absolutely necessary for easy use and
> long life in diesel engines : clean air, clean fuel and oil in the
> system. Clean air is not normally a problem in boats as there is not a
> lot of road or field dust in a boat, but if the boat's engine room is
> dusty, then have an air filter on the air intake. Clean fuel is a
> product of the following factors: quality of fuel purchased - so always
> buy from a dealer that has a large volume of sales and has a reputation
> for quality fuel ( no water ) and who adjusts the diesel/furnace ratio
> for cold weather if you use your boat in the winter in Washington State;
> maintaining a full fuel tank at all times to avoid a situation where
> moisture from the air within the tank can be given up as condensation,
> which promotes rusting, and then maintaining the filters so there is no
> water or particulate matter getting to the fuel pump. Check for water in
> the filter every day and drain any that is present whether you use the
> engine or not. It is interesting that steel gas tanks will rust with
> fuel in them and steel diesel tanks do not because the oil content of
> the fuel is greater with diesel.
> I suggest that your maintenance schedule of filter replacements be
> discussed with the Racor maintenance people that know boats and your $75
> dollars used for regular filter replacement rather than the vacuum
> guage. It is still far cheaper than having to rebuild a pump or an
> engine. I know from talking to others who have diesels in boats that
> the tendency with fuel usage is to let the tank levels creep lower
> because the usage is so low for the time run under power, particularly
> if that is only to clear the moorings or docks. This is not a good idea,
> add as you go.
> If your engine is losing power, then your problem solving needs to
> be inclusive. Readings on a vacuum guage on a fuel system are not an
> accurate measure if the filter is damaged and there is unimpeded flow,
> or if air leaks in the fuel line joint connection system are extant. You
> might want to consider having the injectors cleaned or replaced if that
> has not been done for a while.You might also want to consider the
> maintenance on the fuel tanks and that may include removal and cleaning
> on a regular basis, say every 5th season, particularly in climates with
> high humidity and variable temperatures. There ought to be a screen or
> filter in the electric fuel pump at the tank (if you have one) and that
> should be cleaned on a regular time schedule too. If the filter elements
> have been damaged, then you might well need to check compression (if
> the exhaust is full of black smoke and unburned fuel) and/or the pump.
> The biggest problem with all this is spilled diesel fuel that is both
> somewhat oily and somewhat smelly. That is the joy of having a diesel!
>
> Don
>
> Randy Katz wrote:
>> Greetings, All,
>> I'm interested in t-ing in a vacuum gauage between the Racor and the
>> fuel pump on my Universal M 3-20 B diesel engine. I've no doubt
>> some readers have done this.
>>
>> Racor sells a vacuum guage for about $75. Another outfit, though,
>> Designated Enginners (http://www.designatedengineer.com/) sells
>> about the same thing for $30.
>>
>> The Designated Engineers gauge has a little plastic valve at the top
>> for equalizing pressure and/or resetting the gauge when needed. A
>> Universal mechanic expressed vague doubts about using these
>> gauges.....
>>
>> Anyone have one or experience with one? The intention is to get an
>> accurate reading on the Racor so as to know more precisely when it
>> needs to be replaced. Is this worth the hassling around? The last
>> thing I want to do is put one of these gauges on and have the damn
>> thing suck air through the tacky-looking plastic valve on top.
>>
>> Any thoughts about this?
>>
>> Many thanks,
>> Randy Katz
>> #249... Seattle/Bellingham
>>
>
>
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