[Public-list] Designated Engineers vacuum gauges??

[Don Campbell]

Randy;
    If the last thing you want  is air in your fuel system,( and it 
really is ),  then don't put in a guage with a valve in it regardless of 
the manufacturer. I have run diesels in tractors and trucks for many 
years (none with vacuum guages on fuel lines)   and the normal fuel 
filter replacement is at every  100 hours of time on the hour meter or 
10,000 miles assuming the miles are put on over a reasonable time span 
of no more than 3 months with a bit of leeway depending on the system 
and fuel filter manufacturer.  (On farm trucks that often sit for 6 
months at a time, filters are changed annually at least). Generally, 
every 100 hours on the motor is not often enough on a sail boat 
regardless of vacuum pressure, because the time factor is usually just 
too long, unless you are doing a very extensive amount of motoring, and 
then it could be changed every 100 hours. A fuel filter element should 
be changed annually at a minimum, regardless of how many hours or how 
much fuel goes through the element for safety sake - safety that the 
element does not break down and safety that every time, it is filtering 
all and any water and particulate matter from the tank and particularly 
from  a half filled tank.
        There are three things absolutely necessary for easy use and 
long life in diesel engines : clean air, clean fuel and oil in the 
system.  Clean air is not normally a problem in boats as there is not a 
lot of road or field dust in a boat, but if the boat's engine room is 
dusty, then have an air filter on the air intake. Clean fuel is a 
product of the following factors: quality of fuel purchased - so always 
buy from a dealer that has a large volume of sales and has a reputation 
for quality fuel ( no water ) and who adjusts the diesel/furnace ratio 
for cold weather if you use your boat in the winter in Washington State; 
maintaining a full fuel tank at all times to avoid a situation where 
moisture from the air within the tank can be given up as condensation,  
which promotes rusting,  and then maintaining the filters so there is no 
water or particulate matter getting to the fuel pump. Check for water in 
the filter every day and drain any that is present whether you use the 
engine or not.  It is interesting that steel gas tanks will rust with 
fuel in them and steel diesel tanks do not because the oil content of 
the fuel is greater with diesel.
    I suggest that your maintenance schedule of filter replacements be 
discussed with the Racor maintenance people that know boats and your $75 
dollars used for regular filter replacement rather than the vacuum 
guage. It is still far cheaper than having to rebuild a pump or an 
engine.  I know from talking to others who have diesels in boats that 
the tendency with fuel usage is to let the tank levels creep lower 
because the usage is so low for the time  run under power, particularly 
if that is only to clear the moorings or docks. This is not a good idea, 
add as you go.
    If your engine is losing power, then your problem solving needs to 
be inclusive.  Readings on  a vacuum guage on  a fuel system are not an  
accurate measure  if the filter is damaged and there is unimpeded flow,  
or if air leaks in the fuel line joint connection system are extant. You 
might want to consider having the injectors cleaned or replaced if that 
has not been done for a while.You might also want to consider the 
maintenance on the fuel tanks  and that may include removal and cleaning 
on a regular basis, say every 5th season, particularly in climates with 
high humidity and variable temperatures. There ought to be a screen or 
filter in the electric fuel pump at the tank (if you have one) and that 
should be cleaned on a regular time schedule too. If the filter elements 
have been damaged, then you might well need to check compression  (if 
the exhaust is full of black smoke and unburned fuel)  and/or the pump. 
The biggest problem with all this is spilled diesel fuel  that is both 
somewhat  oily and somewhat smelly. That is the joy of having a diesel!
   
Don

Randy Katz wrote:
> Greetings, All,
> I'm interested in t-ing in a vacuum gauage between the Racor and the
>     fuel pump on my Universal M 3-20 B diesel engine. I've no doubt
>     some readers have done this.
>
> Racor sells a vacuum guage for about $75. Another outfit, though,
>      Designated Enginners (http://www.designatedengineer.com/) sells
>      about the same thing for $30.
>
> The Designated Engineers gauge has a little plastic valve at the top
>      for equalizing pressure and/or resetting the gauge when needed. A
>      Universal mechanic expressed vague doubts about using these
>      gauges.....
>
> Anyone have one or experience with one? The intention is to get an
>     accurate reading on the Racor so as to know more precisely when it
>     needs to be replaced. Is this worth the hassling around? The last
>     thing I want to do is put one of these gauges on and have the damn
>     thing suck air through the tacky-looking plastic valve on top.
>
>    Any thoughts about this?
>
>   Many thanks,
> Randy Katz
> #249... Seattle/Bellingham
>
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