[Public-list] #2

Thu Oct 12 07:07:09 PDT 2006

Yer welcome, these numbers have worked for me - I wouldn't waste money on an 
ultra light # 1 because sooner or later you will have it up when the wind 
exceeds its range. As for bomb proof kevlar - it is bomb proof until it 
explodes ; ) Usually nothing left but the luff tapes - kinda impressive 
watching $1000s of dollars blowing down the race course - always glad its 
not my 1000s ; )

Sails - if you are going to PHRF race (to avoid unnecessary additional time 
penalties on max sail size), suggest building them to the following 
161.5-162% = #1 (deck sweeper, clew no higher than lower to halfway between 
lower and top lifeline, 130-135% = # 2, clew to top lifeline - 6" above , 
105% = # 3  12-18" above lifeline - all full hoist. A 170% + isn't any 
faster and will cost you 6 seconds time allowance in most jurisdictions.

Cheers,
JB

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "J Bergquist" <jbergqui at gmail.com>
To: "Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all" <public-list at alberg30.org>
Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2006 9:53 AM
Subject: Re: [Public-list] #2

> John (birch this time)
>
> Thanks so much. this is really helpful. I had never figured out a method 
> to
> determine backstay tension without bending the boat in this way. Very 
> cool.
> Thanks!
>
> J
>
> On 10/12/06, John Birch <Sunstone at cogeco.ca> wrote:
>>
>> Additional,
>> Suggest telling sail make to account for 8-12" head stay sag, 12" more
>> likely,  cut sail fairly flat, go either tri or bi radial. Suggest 
>> putting
>> an adjustable backstay on. With adjustables suggest running a tight light
>> line down the centre line from pushpit to pulpit, mark the mast where the
>> line intersects the mast and then apply backstay tension until the line
>> moves away from the mark. Then mark the backstay tensioner somehow with
>> paint or marker or whatever because that is the maximum the backstay can
>> be
>> tensioned without bending the boat - adding more tension will achieve
>> nothing except over stressing the boat.
>>
>> Your table:
>> 0-14 full main, full #1.
>> 15-18 Full #1, reefed main
>> 18-22 #2, Full main - bladed out, max outhaul or first reef depending on
>> weather helm - the latter might work better
>> 23-28 #2, Double Reefed main
>> Over 28, #3, reefed main.
>>
>> Just my 2 Cdn cents,
>> Best of luck.
>> Cheers,
>> JB
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "John Birch" <Sunstone at cogeco.ca>
>> To: "Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all" <public-list at alberg30.org>
>> Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2006 9:15 AM
>> Subject: Re: [Public-list] #2
>>
>>
>> > I'd go heavier on the cloth. 7oz min and full hoist with less hollow -
>> > think
>> > I'd want the clew at the top of the lifeline and no higher if racing.
>> >
>> > Just my thoughts.
>> >
>> > Cheers,
>> > John
>> >
>> > ----- Original Message -----
>> > From: "J Bergquist" <jbergqui at gmail.com>
>> > To: "Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all" <public-list at alberg30.org>;
>> > "Alberg 30 Racing" <racing-list at alberg30.org>
>> > Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2006 9:11 AM
>> > Subject: [Public-list] #2
>> >
>> >
>> >> Past Association Commodore Bob Kirk was kind enough to give me his old
>> >> #2.
>> >> I
>> >> measured it last night with a friend in the middle of my street and 
>> >> the
>> >> dimensions I found are as follows:
>> >>
>> >> Luff 31'4" with a 3'4" wire pendant at the top
>> >> Foot 14' 11.5"
>> >> Leech 30' 4"
>> >> LP 14' 2.25" (this makes it a 135% sail)
>> >> Height of LP 4' 8.75"
>> >>
>> >> This sail was very old and I did not have tackle to stretch it really
>> >> hard,
>> >> so we were just doing that by hand on my driveway. It says 'Ulmer"
>> which
>> >> apparently is UK before they were UK.
>> >>
>> >> There is a lot of leech hollow.
>> >>
>> >> I was surprised at the short luff. This seems strange to me for a #2. 
>> >> I
>> >> expected the sail to be full hoist (luff dimension of at least 34 ft).
>> I
>> >> would be interested in hearing people's thoughts on these measurements
>> -
>> >> whether they are good numbers to shoot for, or whether they are too 
>> >> big
>> >> or
>> >> too small (particularly LP, foot dimension, and luff length).
>> >>
>> >> There was kind of a strange seaming pattern. One seam ran from clew to
>> >> luff,
>> >> ending a few feet above LP. Below this seam, panel seams ran 
>> >> vertically
>> >> (more or less parallel to the luff). Above this seam, panel seams were
>> >> cross
>> >> cut (more or less parallel to the foot).
>> >>
>> >> I have gotten concrete sail quotes from UK, North, and Sail Rite. The
>> >> Sail
>> >> Rite guy assures me that if I build one of his sails it will be just 
>> >> as
>> >> good
>> >> as a brand name sail. My thought is not only will I save some money,
>> but
>> >> I
>> >> will also get to learn how to do canvaswork which would enable me to 
>> >> do
>> >> my
>> >> own sail, cover, and upholstery repairs in the future.
>> >>
>> >> All the quotes seem to be built around cloth weight of 6.5 Oz to 7 Oz.
>> >> Any
>> >> thoughts on that?
>> >>
>> >> I appreciate y'alls patience and input on this. Sorry to be so dense. 
>> >> I
>> >> just
>> >> want to be an informed customer rather than just asking the sailmaker
>> to
>> >> figure everythign out for me. Since I am kind of an idiot when it 
>> >> comes
>> >> to
>> >> sailmaking, I am probably asking things that some of you think are
>> silly.
>> >> Again, preciate your patience.
>> >>
>> >> Kind regards,
>> >>
>> >> J Bergquist
>> >> _______________________________________________
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