[Public-list] Motor alignment

[Don Campbell]

I agree with getting the engine as close as possible to aligned before 
bolting the shaft to the transmission and I do do that. Lifting a motor 
at the dock is much easier too, as one never has to deal with heights. 
There is enough bend in the shaft that the torque from a small deviation 
is not enough to permanently bend the shaft. Turning by hand is not 
enough to permanently bend the shaft or scrape the cutlass bearing. 
There is still enough leverage past the cutlass bearing to see a 
difference. One can still feel any play in the cutlass bearing with this 
system, and probably better than you can by diving on the shaft in your 
boat. One gets a better idea of a bent shaft if the boat is on the hard, 
since there is less water entering the hull when the orifice is 4.5 feet 
above the water level, so there are benefits to both systems. I find it 
difficult to get a big set of shoulders to the back of the engine and 
then with trifocals to really get a good feel for the guages. Sailing is 
a compromise and so is fixing sometimes.  The result of both systems is 
that there are many ways to do things but slow and steady is still the 
best for any system. Do not make mistakes that will cost time and effort 
or parts.
    Underwater tape? Try some medical applications as they need to stick 
things to surfaces that sweat, although, here in Canada many prefer Duct 
Tape after Red Green's vast experience!

C.B. Currier wrote:
> That works great but ... I usually do my repowers from the dock and find
> that that is easier than hauling the boat. If  I use your method Don I
> must dive frequently and find tape that will stick underwater. Correct?
>
> I have found that with the many repowers I have done ... feeler gauges
> work very well and is the recommended method in most of the old engine
> installation manuals... including the Atomic 4.
>
> My major problem with your method is that once bolted to the engine you
> are assuming that all is well and little torque is on that shaft. WIth a
> measurement of the end of the shaft outside you are not accounting for a
> new or intact/good shape cutlass bearing.
>
> Having found that the best thing is to position the engine perfectly
> opposite the propshaft before tightening assures most minimum of torque on
> the shaft.
>
> It is a more physical way of alignment but can easily be done if you can
> get your hands behind the engine... you need to get them there any way to
> adjust the rear pitch of the engine.
>
> Just my $0.02
>
>
>   

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