[Public-list] Replacing old through-hulls

[Elaine and Brian Timmins]

I go through this tightening scheme every time I use 5200.
Brian
ex#497
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mike Lehman" <sail_505 at hotmail.com>
To: <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
Sent: Saturday, June 30, 2007 2:36 PM
Subject: Re: [Public-list] Replacing old through-hulls


> Randy,
>
> You are right - it is not as hard as you would think. I think it is a good
> idea to screw the new thru-hull fitting almost tight, let the 5200 set, 
> then
> come back and do the final tightening.
>
>
>
> Mike Lehman
> ~~~_/)_/)~~_/)~~~
>
>
>
>
> ----Original Message Follows----
> From: Randy Katz <randyk at bertschi.org>
> Reply-To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> To: public-list at lists.alberg30.org
> Subject: Re: [Public-list] Replacing old through-hulls
> Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2007 11:21:29 -0700 (PDT)
>
> Thanks, Dan,
>
> I did just replace the head overboard drain through hull. Digging it
>      out was a bit of a chore, but what impressed me most was the old
>      sealant--- by this point in time it was like dried out, doughy
>      putty. It put me in mind to replace all the old through-hulls!
> For removal of the old: A chisel served for hacking out surrounding
>     sealant and cutting off accessible bits of the backing plate
>     (plywood). I used a 3/8" (or so) drill for drilling/grindout out
>     sealant and wood under the retaining nut. A grinder with a cutoff
>     wheel made cutting through the through-hull bolt easy. Finally the
>     whole thing came loose.
> I epoxied in a new backing plate (plywood) and will tomorrow install
>      the new through hull ($30) and new seacock ($130 for 1.25" Groco
>      at WM) with 5200.
> While I'd dreaded this job for some years, it wasn't really that hard
>    (so far).
>
> A word on through hull fittings-- some have a bit of a "dish" at the
>    back of the flare at the root of the threads. I like this version
>    (the old one was flush) as it provides a cavity for the 5200
>    sealant to fill (as well as along the threads running through the
>    hull, of course.)
>
> QUESTON:
> It seems (???) that with the flush kind of through hull it would be
>    good not to screw it in all the way but to leave space between the
>    flare and the hull for 5200? This is assuming there's a
>    screwed/bolted seacock on the other end. Yess???
>
> Good sailing,
> Randy Katz
> #249
> Seattle/Bellingham
>
> > Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2007 20:45:48 -0400
> > From: "dans" <dans at stmktg.com>
> > Subject: Re: [Public-list] public-list Digest, Vol 1009, Issue 1
> > To: <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> > Message-ID: <200706282045.AA18219090 at stmktg.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> >
> > Regarding through hulls
> > ---------------------------
> > I did not follow the earlier part of this thread, but if this wasn't
> > said -- I recall discussion on this years ago. The originals were
> > basically not seaworthy to begin with. I replaced all of mine (which
> > were not original) except the heavy cast bronze cockpit drain valves
> > in the engine compartment, and I did replace one of those hoses
> > about 10 years ago (exhaust hose is what fits those, by the way).
> >
> > Don't forget the cooling water through hull in the engine
> > compartment and the plug where the head had a pump out valve
> > originally. If in ANY DOUBT AT ALL, replace them all, its cheap
> > insurance. Evidently, quite a number of sailboats are lost due to
> > failure of these old valves.
> >
> > It's also a good idea to carry a bag of those little softwood cones
> > that plug the hole of a valve fails and a hose breaks.
> >
> > My $0.02,
> >
> > --Dan Sternglass
> > dans at stmktg.com
> > Watcher Of The Skies, #201, 1966, Cayuga Lake, Ithaca, NY
> >
> >
>
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