[Public-list] Replacing old through-hulls

[Mike Lehman]

Randy,

You are right - it is not as hard as you would think. I think it is a good 
idea to screw the new thru-hull fitting almost tight, let the 5200 set, then 
come back and do the final tightening.



Mike Lehman
~~~_/)_/)~~_/)~~~




----Original Message Follows----
From: Randy Katz <randyk at bertschi.org>
Reply-To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all 
<public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
To: public-list at lists.alberg30.org
Subject: Re: [Public-list] Replacing old through-hulls
Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2007 11:21:29 -0700 (PDT)

Thanks, Dan,

I did just replace the head overboard drain through hull. Digging it
      out was a bit of a chore, but what impressed me most was the old
      sealant--- by this point in time it was like dried out, doughy
      putty. It put me in mind to replace all the old through-hulls!
For removal of the old: A chisel served for hacking out surrounding
     sealant and cutting off accessible bits of the backing plate
     (plywood). I used a 3/8" (or so) drill for drilling/grindout out
     sealant and wood under the retaining nut. A grinder with a cutoff
     wheel made cutting through the through-hull bolt easy. Finally the
     whole thing came loose.
I epoxied in a new backing plate (plywood) and will tomorrow install
      the new through hull ($30) and new seacock ($130 for 1.25" Groco
      at WM) with 5200.
While I'd dreaded this job for some years, it wasn't really that hard
    (so far).

A word on through hull fittings-- some have a bit of a "dish" at the
    back of the flare at the root of the threads. I like this version
    (the old one was flush) as it provides a cavity for the 5200
    sealant to fill (as well as along the threads running through the
    hull, of course.)

QUESTON:
It seems (???) that with the flush kind of through hull it would be
    good not to screw it in all the way but to leave space between the
    flare and the hull for 5200? This is assuming there's a
    screwed/bolted seacock on the other end. Yess???

Good sailing,
Randy Katz
#249
Seattle/Bellingham

 > Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2007 20:45:48 -0400
 > From: "dans" <dans at stmktg.com>
 > Subject: Re: [Public-list] public-list Digest, Vol 1009, Issue 1
 > To: <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
 > Message-ID: <200706282045.AA18219090 at stmktg.com>
 > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
 >
 > Regarding through hulls
 > ---------------------------
 > I did not follow the earlier part of this thread, but if this wasn't
 > said -- I recall discussion on this years ago. The originals were
 > basically not seaworthy to begin with. I replaced all of mine (which
 > were not original) except the heavy cast bronze cockpit drain valves
 > in the engine compartment, and I did replace one of those hoses
 > about 10 years ago (exhaust hose is what fits those, by the way).
 >
 > Don't forget the cooling water through hull in the engine
 > compartment and the plug where the head had a pump out valve
 > originally. If in ANY DOUBT AT ALL, replace them all, its cheap
 > insurance. Evidently, quite a number of sailboats are lost due to
 > failure of these old valves.
 >
 > It's also a good idea to carry a bag of those little softwood cones
 > that plug the hole of a valve fails and a hose breaks.
 >
 > My $0.02,
 >
 > --Dan Sternglass
 > dans at stmktg.com
 > Watcher Of The Skies, #201, 1966, Cayuga Lake, Ithaca, NY
 >
 >

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