[Public-list] ice box insulation in liner boats

[John Boor]

The masonite is not water proof and over time I think the bottom section
will rot.  In retrospect i should have glassed the interior.  The exterior
finshed top is the same heigth as normal, as for interior depth I had a
min of 4in of insulation were the hull contour  depth is minimum  ie port
aft outboard corner by having the exterior bulhead moved inboard greater
depth could be realized without  looseing a lot of space.  I sloped the
bottom towards the inside forward corner for drainage.
John Boor
MAHSEER #380


 why was the masonite not a good idea?
>
> what is the height of the top of the new cooler (measured down from
> bridge deck, up from cabin sole, or whatever dimension is convenient)?
>
> I am currently rebuilding my own cooler and looking for ideas. I like
> the idea of the separation from the engine heat...
>
> Kind regards,
>
> JB
>
> On 3/6/07, John Boor <mahseer at kos.net> wrote:
>> > John-
>> >
>> > after you ripped out your icebox, what exactly did you do with that
>> space?
>> >
>> > J
>> >
>> I reduced the size to about 1/2, on the side near the engine compartment
>> I
>> left a space that is wide enough to accept soft drinks or what ever this
>> effectively isolates engine heat. The outer hull side another partition
>> was created that is wide enough for large bottles etc.  The interior
>> sides
>> and bottom was lined with not less that 4in of blue insulation and a
>> hard
>> Masonite (not a good idea) liner and sealed.  A new top was cut with
>> access for only 1 of the two tops leaving both outsides open.  I still
>> have lots of space for all my perishable foods and drinks inside and a
>> block of ice. I have an evaporator plate refrigeration that runs about
>> 20min per hour, with a block of ice I can turn off the fridge at night
>> with the compressor running first thing in the morning for about 30 mins
>> before going to a normal run cycle. Regret no pictures available of
>> rebuild.
>>
>> John Boor
>> MAHSEER #380
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