[Public-list] Plywood Hatch Cover

[Roger L. Kingsland]

Hi Bob,

My hatch on good old #148 is the same and was well worn so I rebuilt it w/ a
teak top.  Here is what I did;
-took it apart and sanded the plywood 
-ripped 1/4" teak strips a little less than 2" wide
-laminated strips to top w/ epoxy (thickened with adhesive filler) leaving
gap between slats (I cut 3 curved shims to fit under the plywood to maintain
the radius of the curve and clamped wood strips above the shims across the
top of the teak slats to hold them down while the epoxy cured)
-sanded the new strips w/ a belt sander to round the edges to the radius of
the plywood (used a straight edge fore/aft [parallel to strips] to insure I
got everything straight)
-expanded the groves in the end caps using a router
-made new side pieces to accommodate the thicker hatch
-put it back together
-filled gap in seams w/ black 5200

I also replaced the Plexiglas tops on the lazarette and forward hatches w/
teak and built teak winch bases.  Winches mount on each end of the bases
with room to sit in between.  They are done but not finished or installed
yet.  I can send pictures in you like.

Roger
  

-----Original Message-----
From: public-list-bounces at lists.alberg30.org
[mailto:public-list-bounces at lists.alberg30.org] On Behalf Of Robert Kirk
Sent: Sunday, May 20, 2007 6:19 PM
To: Alberg 30 Public List
Subject: [Public-list] Plywood Hatch Cover

The sliding companionway hatch cover on Isobar is a piece of gently curved
plywood with wooden endpieces. I had to build one new endpiece this year and
repair the other one. That’s OK, but what happens if the main plywood top
goes?

It’s ¾ inch good Baltic plywood that has been curved to match the curve of
the coachtop. If I ever have to replace it, how do I bend  ¾ plywood? Did
Whitby originally steam them? Can it be done? I suppose I could always make
it flat and raise the sides using filler pieces.

Bob Kirk
Isobar #181

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