[Public-List] removing through-hull with 5200 on it
Randy Katz
randyk at bertschi.org
Thu Aug 7 10:02:20 PDT 2008
Greetings, All,
Wanted to report back on efforts to remove the just-installed
through-hull which I originally embedded using 3M 5200.
Decided to take apart the week old work because I realized the
importance of having metals that match on the through-hull
fitting and the seacock, bronze being the standard. I had
installed a through-hull fitting of unknown metal content
figuring what the heck-- had second thoughts.
I was lucky! I'd used 5200 with the one-week cure time. I hadn't
noticed that there are several different cure times, and that
they vary along with the colors. @ 12 days after the original
installation I was expecting to have to cut the boat apart to get
that nasty 5200 out. Imagine my surprise when, with some ramped
up tugging on the seacock using a pipe wrench, I was able to
unscrew the thing right off. A miracle, thought I.
Getting the t-hull fitting out was another story. I could turn it with
a pipe wrench on it's threads from the inside, but couldn't push
it out. Resorting to the classic threaded bolt puller worked like
a charm.
FORGET ABOUT USING 5200?
Having read about caulks since the original installation, I understood
that some people sweat that 5200 has no place on a boat. The very
helpful fellow at Redden Marine in Bellingham, was persuasively of
that school. A sailboat owner for many decades, he's always used
Boat Life caulk. He recommended 4200 if wanting to stick with 3M
products. I'm sure many Albergers have a variety of thoughts on
this.
I went with 4200 second time around. (It is also listed as suitable
for through-hull fittings.) The other t-hulls installed with 5200
will have to be dealt with by the next owner, some decades from
now. Of course, I'm assuming that A-30s will be plying the seas
and waterways for ANOTHER 40 years.
HOpe this info is helpful to someone.
Regards,
Randy Katz
#249
Seattle/Bellingham, WA,
1218128540.0
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