[Public-List] wood inset in hatches and seats

[Lawrence Morris]

Mark,

If the locker hatches and slides are fiberglass with wood inlay like  
my boat (501) the process is very simple.  Route out the entire cavity  
to a depth of 1/4".  Be sure to work from the center of the cavity to  
the outside edges, so the router has a surface to slide on.  Note I  
did the last 1/8"  of the ply wood with a chisel so I wouldn't damage  
the fiberglass edges.

Cut 3/8" solid teak strips  approx. 2" wide.  I went to an exotic  
lumber supplier and purchased a piece of 8/4 board.  I ripped 3/8"  
strips on my table saw.  no need to plane to a uniform a thickness I  
will tell you why later.  layout the planking pattern you desire.  I  
chose to border the cockpit hatches with miter joints and strip  
planking inside.  the lazerette and the companionway slide I did with  
straight planking.  Keep in mind the gap needed between all the planks  
for the black caulk joints.  Dry fit to ensure proper layout.

Line the out side edges of the cavities with duct tape, not masking  
tape. it needs to be tough.

Mix enough west system epoxy and add their graphite powder to color it  
black to place all the planks in position.  do not fill the joints all  
the way at this time.  do not worry about the flatness of the surface  
from one plank to the other.  just get them close.  clamp gently with  
weights being careful not to shift the planks position. Figure out  
your clamping method during the dry fit stage. Let the epoxy cure.

Mix additional epoxy with graphite and some micro-balloon thickener to  
the consistency of stiff honey, but no peanut butter.  fill the caulk  
joints with this mixture.  don't worry about getting some on the top  
surface it will be removed in the finishing stage.  let it cure.

Once the epoxy is cured take a belt sander with 60 or 100 grit belt  
and sand the surface flat and level.  only far enough down to get it  
flat and level.  It should end up approx 1/8" above the fiberglass. I  
lft mine at that level and it sheds water nicely and if I want to  
resurface all I have to do is grind down the wood again.  This is  
stage where the duct tape comes in handy because it protects the  
fiberglass surface.  Finish sand with 220.

Remove the duct tape around the edges.  it may be necessary to use a  
razor knife to cut the excess epoxy in a clean line on the fiberglas  
edge to get the tape up.

then they are ready for mounting.


any questions send me an email off list I am in the yearbook

Larry Morris
Solstice  #501



On Jun 22, 2008, at 9:47 PM, Mark Dietrich wrote:

> Has anyone replaced the wood panels in the various locations on an  
> Alberg? The wood seems to be 1/4" Luann mahogany glued over 3/4"  
> strips of plywood with an 1/8" gap between them.  The 1/4" panel  
> never cracked but looks old and the top layer got sanded through.
> I'd like to hear of any satisfactory results and also those that  
> didn't work out so well before I make my attempt.
> Mark  531
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