[Public-List] rub rail digressing to epoxy fires

Thu May 1 18:56:10 PDT 2008

Mike,

RE epoxy fires; no, thankfully, although I have had some "epoxy solutions"
that were too hot to touch, no fires as of yet (reminds me to put the fire
extinguishers back on board).  Closest I have come is back in the day when I
used MarineTex I used to enjoy the smoke after mixing the two parts.  I
guess my biggest frustration (so far, many more opportunities for mistakes
in the offing) is "coatings".  I love carpentry and don't mind spending time
to do it right (IE: fix my mistakes); but, as soon as it's time to apply
something on top, all of the gremlins come out of the closet/woodwork.  

Here is what I think I have learned (dangerous assumption);  1), anyone who
has used varnish more than twice has too much time on his/her hands and
should "seek help" (no, really; I am not afraid of work but, to spend weeks
applying 8 coats that last the same number of months in sunshine is
"certifiable"), 2) more thin coats are better than fewer thick coats (thick
results in the same appearance as antique glass; thin allows sanding flat
[is that called faring] permitting, at least the potential for perfection),
3) rollers are better than brushes, especially if you agree thin is good, 4)
foam rollers are best (I have tried several [thousand] and discovered those
with fuzz will deposit their fuzz on my/your/anyones/everyones boat, even if
you blow them off with air from your third, progressively more powerful,
compressor and roll them over super sticky duct tape and pray the rosary
[and I'm not even Catholic] six times over the roller before wetting), 4) if
you don't have the right roller, don't bother (actually, that applies only
to the last coat which I have done, on average, 4 times with each coating
project) and the right roller is small cell foam with rounded edges made by
Sherwin Williams and costing about 10% of what I paid for the several
thousand fuzzy rollers, 5) be like the positions and manage expectations; it
never will be as good as you hope/think it should (the reason my boat is
named "PERFECT intentions").

Words of wisdom worth what you paid for them.

All the best,

Roger 148        

-----Original Message-----
From: public-list-bounces at lists.alberg30.org
[mailto:public-list-bounces at lists.alberg30.org] On Behalf Of Mike Lehman
Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2008 4:47 PM
To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
Subject: Re: [Public-List] rub rail

So Roger - did the syringe catch on fire? - that happened to me once while
injecting epoxy from a syringe, well almost - it got to hot to handle and
started to smoke - it bubbled and blistered the finished work.Mike Lehman
><((((º>`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>  > From:
r.kingsland at ksba.com> To: public-list at lists.alberg30.org> Date: Thu, 1 May
2008 16:42:14 -0400> Subject: Re: [Public-List] rub rail> > Although it's
the first time I heard the term, I realize now I have been> employing the
"brute force and ignorance" method for years; perhaps with an> added measure
of "stuck on stupid" thrown in. Like that time I was> injecting epoxy from a
syringe (ever tried to get epoxy into a syringe) into> a hole in the deck
and started to realize the slim probability that the hole> I was trying to
fill could possibly hold that many painstakingly filled> syringes of epoxy;
only to learn, upon further investigation, the hanging> locker shelf below
the hole could easily hole a couple of dozen more. > > > Roger (still
working on good old #148) > > > > -----Original Message-----> From:
public-list-bounces at lists.alberg30.org>
[mailto:public-list-bounces at lists.alberg30.org] On Behalf Of
mahseer at kos.net> Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2008 8:03 AM> To: Alberg 30 Public
List -- open to all> Subject: Re: [Public-List] rub rail> > JB> If your hull
is close to 380 you will find that the toe rail is screwed to> the deck not
through bolted. I am replacing mine with Mahogany right now> and will use
the brute force and ignorance method to install.> > John Boor> MAHSEER #380>
> > > > >>> > While I'm at it, has anybody replaced toe rail on an old style
boat? I > > parted a dock line a couple weeks ago which damaged the forward
> > section of my toe rail on the starboard side and I want to replace this.
I> looked at:> >> > http://www.dasein668.com/projects/exterior/wood> >> >
Where they apparently just bent it into place with brute force and > > held
it htere with screws (I assume that mine would be through-bolted, > > since
I am pretty sure the fasteners on the toe rail are the same as > > the deck
fasteners). But they used mahogany and I would prefer to use > > teak which
I think is stiffer and more difficult to bend. I also saw this> one:> >> >>
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