[Public-List] Mould Removal

[brooks.glenn at comcast.net]

Hello John,

I used Interlux Toplac with the recommended interlux "Pre-Kote" primer underneath. Toplac is really nice paint and has a silicon additive for smoothing out the brush marks.  Interlux recommends dewaxing and sanding gell coat until it is dull and smooth. - I didn't dewax as I was killing actually three layers of old cabin paint and sanding into the FG base anyway. 

First I did do extensive paint removal with a commercial grade paint remover then sanded the overhead and cabin sides to smooth up the laid surface and roving impressions etc.  Couldn't tell if there even was a gell coat on the inside. but I  sanded well into the FG surface insure ALL mold stain was gone.

Then washed the glass down with thinner and white rags, to remove spore and FG dust, paint dust etc, then painted a coat of clear cuperinol to kill any residue spore/fungi. Cuperinol is a great preservative for wood boats, as it is absorbed into the surface and kills spore in the wood.  I figured it wouldnt hurt the glass but would certainly hurt any lurking fungis. It takes a couple of days for cuperinol to dry on FG, and I washed off what would't dry ( with thinner). Any way once all that dried, I painted with the flat coat then with two coats of poly.  I like the high gloss and long lasting color - and havent had any reoccurance of mold since. ( except for the one damn spot that I missed with my second finish coat.

BTW, a light bulb or marine heater inside the boat during the winter keeps the condensation away, so I sort of went after both the causes of the mold.

Another little surprise => When I stripped the paint, I also discovered the inner portion of the cabin was NOT bonded to the deck--just the out side of the shell was molded to the deck, apparently when the builder laid up the deck/cabin in the mold.  The inside cabin joint was merely filled with auto body putty and smoothed round to match the underside of the deck.  So I ground down the inside 4 " of cabin side glass a bit and laid 4 or 5 overlapping layers of mat and roving with middle grade FG resin along both sides of the cabin/deck joint before painting. Also built up a couple of layers of 2" FG tape at the joint around the main cabin bulkhead and cabin tops and companion way.  I feel a lot more secure now than the cabin is bonded to both sides of the deck, if/when I ever do go anywhere in the boat. ie across the ocean.  + the raised FG reinforcement makes an excellent painting line with the oiled/wood bulkhead.

Coincidentally, I discovered that slops of paint remover that fell off teh ceiling onto the teak flooring actually cleaned up the old black stained wood to look like new.  So I got a brand new looking floor by accident.

Cheers,

Glenn


 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Coolray <cooler2k at yahoo.com>
> Glenn, et. al.,
> 
> What type of interior paint did you use? Did you use a
> primer first? I have sanded down the interior of my
> cabin for several reasons, including mold, and want to
> paint several surfaces including the engine
> compartment/bilge area. Any tips on paint & primer
> would be appreciated.
> 
> Thank you,
> John C.
> Atalaya
> 
> --- brooks.glenn at comcast.net wrote:
> 
> > I haven't been following this thread because of
> > work,  but would be interested in knowing how the
> > bleach works out. 
> > 
> > As an FYI, I had a similar problem on my boat when I
> > bought her in 2005.  Black mold covered the inside
> > of the cabin ceiling.  Eventually found the mold
> > spots were growing from  the original Fiberglass
> > shell out through two old layers of cabin enamel. 
> > First time around, after scrubbing the cabin ceiling
> > clean, I found little roundish vaguely pinkish spots
> > in the paint where the mold had been growing - which
> > grew back as black mold the next winter.  So then
> > did the archaeology thing and scratched away a
> > couple of them with my boat knife, to expose each
> > layer of paint until I found the root cause-- which
> > was the mold had started in the glass and fed off
> > the paint till it reached air then turned black-- or
> > vice versa- but it was well planted in the FG at any
> > rate..
> > 
> > Next spring I took all the old paint off ( inside
> > main cabin) with commercial paint stripper then
> > sanded everything smooth with a palm sander and 100
> > grit, then repainted with two coats white poly. 
> > I've still got one spot size of a quarter near the
> > hatch that I missed with second coat- it grows
> > pinkish pinhead gunk  a little bit each winter which
> > I clean off with a sponge and soap 1x/yr--to lazy to
> > buff it out and dab on a smidge of paint.  Anyway,
> > if you have old paint inside, maybe watch for the
> > pink discoloration after the mold is gone...
> > 
> > Glenn b
> > 
> > S/V Dolce,  
> >  -------------- Original message
> > ----------------------
> > From: "Rod  Symmes" <harmony at aztec-net.com>
> > >      It sounds like bleach gives long lasting
> > results.  No special trip to the 
> > > boat shop [ always dangerous ]  got the bleach,
> > rubber gloves and detergent in 
> > > the house.  Working overhead means I just have to
> > find good eye protection and I 
> > > can tackle that job tomorrow.
> > > 
> > > Thanks to all.
> > > 
> > > Cheers,    Rod
> > > 
> > > ~~~~ _/)~~~ _/)_/) ~~~~
> > > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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