[Public-List] Whitby Shop Made Through Hulls

Don Campbell dk.campbell at sympatico.ca
Mon Apr 13 07:37:01 PDT 2009


The fittings that Whitby made are the ones that are about 1/2" id. There 
is a small, perhaps 1/4" extension on the end into the water and the one 
is covered with the screen for the intake.  The washer is a flat washer 
about 1 1/8" in diameter and fits into a groove in the nipple. While 
there may be no apparent seizure on the gates, the shank that holds the 
gates has been known to rust through and the only way to check this is 
to take the valve apart and pull the gate out to have a look at things.
    Mike Lehman is correct, just cut things off and bash things into the 
hull and start again. There is no replacement for any hole and seacock 
as small as 1/2" so you will need to move up to 3/4" as smallest 
possible. I found it most easy to lightly epoxy a piece of plywood onto 
the inside of the hull to hold the pilot drill for a hole saw to 
increase the hole size. Once the epoxy sets up you can drill the hole 
and then knock off the plywood before the epoxy cures totally. To set 
the new through hulls you can then choose either 4200® or 5200® from 3M ®.
Don

crufone at comcast.net wrote:
> Hello, 
>
>
>
> How easy is it to distunguish these through hulls from the normal cast bronze variety?  My boat is a 1966 model. Which through hulls are likely to be suspect?  Even though none of them are leaking, I was thinking of removing the through hulls and just rebedding them.  Mine is a fresh water boat so I expected this to be a good way to proceed.  My original gate valves all work fine, don't leak and none are frozen with corrosion. After rebedding the through hulls I was planning on inspecting and perhaps repacking the gate valve stems and refitting them back in place. 
>
>
>
> Hummmmmmmmmm  should I be thinking differently? 
>
>
>
> Michael 
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