[Public-List] Whitby Shop Made Through Hulls
Don Campbell
dk.campbell at sympatico.ca
Mon Apr 13 07:37:01 PDT 2009
The fittings that Whitby made are the ones that are about 1/2" id. There
is a small, perhaps 1/4" extension on the end into the water and the one
is covered with the screen for the intake. The washer is a flat washer
about 1 1/8" in diameter and fits into a groove in the nipple. While
there may be no apparent seizure on the gates, the shank that holds the
gates has been known to rust through and the only way to check this is
to take the valve apart and pull the gate out to have a look at things.
Mike Lehman is correct, just cut things off and bash things into the
hull and start again. There is no replacement for any hole and seacock
as small as 1/2" so you will need to move up to 3/4" as smallest
possible. I found it most easy to lightly epoxy a piece of plywood onto
the inside of the hull to hold the pilot drill for a hole saw to
increase the hole size. Once the epoxy sets up you can drill the hole
and then knock off the plywood before the epoxy cures totally. To set
the new through hulls you can then choose either 4200® or 5200® from 3M ®.
Don
crufone at comcast.net wrote:
> Hello,
>
>
>
> How easy is it to distunguish these through hulls from the normal cast bronze variety? My boat is a 1966 model. Which through hulls are likely to be suspect? Even though none of them are leaking, I was thinking of removing the through hulls and just rebedding them. Mine is a fresh water boat so I expected this to be a good way to proceed. My original gate valves all work fine, don't leak and none are frozen with corrosion. After rebedding the through hulls I was planning on inspecting and perhaps repacking the gate valve stems and refitting them back in place.
>
>
>
> Hummmmmmmmmm should I be thinking differently?
>
>
>
> Michael
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