[Public-List] A-30 prop shaft packing gland

[Daniel Sternglass]

Hello,

Regarding access to prop shaft packing gland in my 1966 (liner-less) 
A-30...
Funny this should be the topic if today's thread, that has been my 
project on and off over the last couple days.

The previous owner (I guess, I thought it was installed at the factory 
before I read this thread) installed a circular screw-in deck plate 
(maybe 8" in diameter, I'd recommend bigger, 10-12") in the forward 
cockpit floor, centered left to right. You reach straight down and 
adjust the gland. Once upon a time I had the wrench that fit the packing 
gland, but no more. I ended up buying one of those ratcheting so-called 
pipe wrenches with a 2" max jaw opening at  Lowe's. This job is not as 
easy as it looks, but it can be done. Assuming you have access, or are 
willing to lay on top of the engine...

1. It's a lot easier if you shine a bright light on it from the engine 
side, I taped a bright LED flashlight to the engine wiring and hoses.

2. There's a locking nut and the rotating cup that the shaft goes 
through. It's was much harder for me to get the wrench on the lock nut 
to loosen it, much easier to back off the cap a half turn or so, then 
the lock nut turned easily (my problem was too much water seeping 
through). If the nut and cup are corroded, you may need to clean them up 
with a wire brush and apply some oil, but be careful of the heavy rubber 
hose that goes through the hull.

3. I then backed off the lock nut and adjusted the cup for a drip every 
20 seconds or so, backed it off about a quarter turn more, hand 
tightened the lock nut against it and then (mostly) tightened the cup 
back down, tightening the lock nut a little bit. This took several tries 
to end up with a reasonable drip rate, but it was easier for me to get a 
good grip on the cup. It was more frustrating and tedious than it sounds

If you have to cut an access hole, inside the settee locker might be 
better, but I never really thought about it since my boat came with a 
deck plate installed. Making a large access hole that doesn't take the 
mechanical load when "closed" might lead to structural problems at high 
loads. In that sense, a screw-in deck plate with a well-bedded ring is 
ideal, easy enough to mark and cut the hole with a saber saw.

If you can find or make the right wrench (1/8" steel sheet would be 
fine) it will make the job a lot easier than using an adjustable or any 
kind of pipe wrench. Sears sells a 1-3/4" water pump wrench for $30.00 
on their website, but I'm not sure if that's the exact size. Don't 
bother trying to use the "straight" adjustable wrenches they sell for 
plumbers to disassemble traps and drain pipes, the one I got had way too 
much play to be used easily, and it relies on a u-tighten-it wing nut 
for stability.

Good luck,

--Dan Sternglass
Watcher of the Skies, 1966, #201, Cayuga Lake, Ithaca, NY
dans at stmktg.com
cell: 607-592-8012




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