[Public-List] Standpipe exhaust

[mahseer at kos.net]

When I opened up my exhaust, except the section that is above the water
line that had some soot the bronze pipe was as good as the day it was
made.  No corosion or pitting, I am in fresh water not salt. the weak link
seems to be the braise between the copper pipe and the bronze lower
washer.
  This winter I have to remove the engine to replace the cockpit drain
gate valves, while doing this I might replace the stuffing box with a
dripless one.  Since they need a flow of water to cool them I am
thinking about useing the exhaust drain valve to do this this way there
is no standing water in the pipe when the boat is not used.  Any thoughs
on the dripless bearing and the cooling idea.

John Boor
MAHSEER #380

> If the joint leaks, it'll dump into the bilge, not the cylinder.  The
> center pipe is continuous.  Also, the old ones had a drain valve to
> drain the water out for the winter.
>
>   - George
>
> Peter Amos wrote:
>> I had one of these on my previous boat.It was an incredibly heavy
>> weight on the exhaust manifold,it leaked from a weld,out of sight
>> ,and corroded an engine mount.I saw a diagram in one of Calders
>> maintenance books and it looked to me that it always had water in
>> it.If an interior weld leaks I think it would dump water into the
>> cylinders
>>
>> Pete #166
>>
>>> Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 09:50:00 -0800
>>> From: gwyn at beluga.phys.uvic.ca
>>> To: public-list at lists.alberg30.org
>>> Subject: [Public-List] Standpipe exhaust
>>>
>>>
>>> Hi,
>>>
>>> I just had mine refurbished. It was leaking and something inside
>>> was rattling. I didn't actually see the pipe disassembled, but
>>> the guy made some drawings which I've reproduced and put
>>> on the web at:
>>> http://astrowww.phys.uvic.ca/~gwyn/pers/sailing/standpipe.gif
>>> The drawing is a bit crude, and not to scale, but it gives
>>> you the idea.
>>>
>>> The rattle was caused by the deflector cap coming loose,
>>> which is what is described in the last paragraph of:
>>> http://www.alberg30.org/maintenance/MechanicalPropulsion/Exhaust/standpipe.html
>>> It was resoldered in place. It wasn't possible to get the top
>>> cap off by melting the original solder, so it was cut off and
>>> then resoldered with silver solder.
>>>
>>> The guy who did this (Townside Auto in Victoria BC) said the
>>> pipe was copper, not bronze. He figured that to make a new one
>>> would require 200$ worth of copper parts plus 3 hours shop time.
>>>
>>> Stephen Gwyn
>>> #495 Quasar
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ------------------------------------------------------------------
>>> Stephen Gwyn | Tel: 1-250-363-3136
>>> Dept. of Physics & Astronomy | Fax: 1-250-363-0045
>>> Univ. of Victoria | Cell: 1-250-885-6969
>>> PO Box 3055 | E-mail: gwyn at uvastro.phys.uvic.ca
>>> Victoria, BC V8W 3P6 | http://orca.phys.uvic.ca/~gwyn
>>> ------------------------------------------------------------------
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>>
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>
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>    So many I love were not yet born.                          also see:
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