[Public-List] Comments on #235 rudder repair.

crufone at comcast.net crufone at comcast.net
Thu Jul 23 10:49:53 PDT 2009



Richard, 

See inserts below 



1.  Top.  Haven't seen silicon bronze bushings in the various on line 
catalogues but will call as I'm guessing they can custom fabricate.  Any 
leads to supply appreciated. I forgot, are you the owner who was planning on using a sleeve over the upper rudder stock with wings/cheeks welded on to attach same to the rudder blade? Many posters like to use McMaster Carr for mill supplies. I would try Fabricators or Mill Suppliers or Copper and Brass Sales or most any metal supplier to locate a bronze sleeve of your needs.  Buck Algonquin might have a shaft log of the size that you could use for the rudder stock bushing. 

2. Any thoughts on the Middle?  Removed the one piece hull gudgeon, but it 
will be much more difficult if not impossible to emplace a pin in rudder 
gudgeon, slip removed hull gudgeon over, and articulate back around the 
hull.  Another option is to buy a new two piece gudgeon.  Which led me to 
wonder why I could not simply cut or have gudgeon cut in half?  Curious if 
there would be enough shape and strength left in the 2 less-than-half 
circles? Good question. Stephen Sousa posted that Pacific Seacraft had replacement parts that matched the Alberg 30 pintle/gudgeon closely. If you began with a new part to cut in half there might be more material to allow the two half application. You could also easily have a fabricator make a nice hefty two piece gudgeon for you.  There is plenty of room down there to fabricate and install a much heftier gudgeon.  Drag and disruption of laminar flow will be increased over the leading edge of the rudder. 

3. Bottom.  The 3/8" aft bolt and 1/4" side screws that attach the shoe fit 
loosely in existing holes in keel.   Is it better to retap larger holes and 
upsize the aft bolt and side screws?  If so, are there suggested guidelines 
for retapping, e.g., at least ___ sizes larger to allow full tapping of the 
hole?  Or is it better to refill the existing holes and retap?  There again, 
retap to existing or larger size?   If new bolts of the original size are not sloppy in the shoe casting I would keep to the original size hardware. I have had good luck filling sloppy holes with either polyester or Epoxy resin and carefully re-tapping. Trick is to get the old hole Clean and Dry.  Compressed air followed by Acetone followed by air and acetone.............. works well.  Probe in the holes to see if they continue into the bilge or a void.  If they do, perhaps you can push in some paper to back up the hole deeper than what you need to tap. Another trick will be to get the resin to run up hill.  Capillary action will cause the resin to coat the outside circumference of the hole. Use a pipe cleaner to coat the hole with resin. Allow to set ( really set up) then repeat until half the hole diameter is filled. To re-drill use the shoe in place as a drill guide, to get the angle close to what it should be. Drill smaller first and then larger to the correct size for the tap. Tap slowly 1/2 turn then back out clean off tap then again an additional 1/2 turn past the first 1/2 turn. Slowly work your way to the depth you need.  Again , if you were not careful in letting the resin set properly between coats you will tap into a sticky mess and tear out the whole lot with the tap. Thanks again.  Richard 
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