[Public-List] Deck beam still a little flat.

[Roger L. Kingsland]

OK, now I get it; you are worried about not getting the alum gusset plate
vertical.  How about adding the same number of layers of FG patches as
tabbing on the face of the wood beam near where the bottom of the new beam
would go; almost like adding shims (or, add actual wood shims).  You could
then mix some peanut butter consistency epoxy (using West, high density
adhesive filler) and apply it to the inside surface of the new beam (perhaps
to the old beam as well) so you get full adhesion between old and new
surfaces.  I did this w/ my Micarta backer plates and used a serrated blade
trowel (like the ones used to lay down floor mastic) to apply the epoxy.  If
both surfaces are sanded, stuff sticks better, particularly to the aluminum
side.  When I did a similar process with my new chain plates, I first
loosely tightened the bolts and did the final, full tighten after the epoxy
set.  Good idea to mask all surfaces and pull the masking off before the
epoxy fully sets.

West has a great book called "Fiberglass Repair & Maintenance" that covers
tabbing.

-----Original Message-----
From: public-list-bounces at lists.alberg30.org
[mailto:public-list-bounces at lists.alberg30.org] On Behalf Of Greg Roberts
Sent: Monday, September 21, 2009 12:35 PM
To: public-list at lists.alberg30.org
Subject: [Public-List] Deck beam still a little flat.

Roger,
I'll give that a try. Sorry 2nd paragraph wasn't clear. The side of the beam
is ideally flat. A plate of similar size will bolt flat against it. Add
tabbing around the beam. Now install the plate and it rests on the
tabbing... Laborious solution: cut a step in the back of the plate to make a
space for the tabbing. Fill that space with thickened epoxy. Bolt it
together and clean up the extra that squezes out. Another approach would be
to cover the beam in glass and then install the plate. I'm not sure I can
get that much glass flat...

Greg

Sent from my iPhone
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