[Public-List] V Berth Cubby

dan walker dsailormon at yahoo.com
Wed Apr 7 07:12:59 PDT 2010 

so with respect to chlorine. does it affect the fiberglass at all? 

--- On Wed, 4/7/10, Don Campbell <dk.campbell at sympatico.ca> wrote:

> From: Don Campbell <dk.campbell at sympatico.ca>
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] V Berth Cubby
> To: "Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all" <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> Date: Wednesday, April 7, 2010, 9:29 AM
> 
> 
> Kris Coward wrote:
> > Hi William,
> > 
> > Changing the top and painting the inside would
> probably more than suffice
> > for me (and even that's somewhere near the bottom of
> my to-do list --
> > but then things have a habit of breaking and
> reorganizing to-do lists,
> > so...). Since my contemplation is usually provoked by
> the little white
> > bits in the water when the tank is low, or the
> weather's been heavy, I'm
> > going to assume that they're little pieces of aluminum
> salts all eaten
> > from the top of the tank.
> >   
> The assumption that these are aluminum salts may not be
> justified. The flakes  are much more likely to be
> calcium or magnesium carbonate salts from our hard water
> that have precipitated out because of changing water
> temperatures and similar reactions to any aluminum oxidation
> reactions but since calcium and magnesium are higher on the
> activity scale, they will react before aluminum will.
> Chlorine will only increase the number of flakes as you will
> find them similar to those with CLR. With these calcium
> compounds present, and chlorine,  you get calcium
> chloride,  a water soluble, deliquescent and
> efflorescent salt. This needs to be completely washed out of
> the tank system because it will keep  releasing free
> chloride ions once dissolved in water (that it can attract
> from humidity in the air) which acts as a weak acid upon
> dissociation. The chlorine may then react with the aluminum
> and etch the surface if there is not enough calcium in the
> water to neutralize that reaction.
>    The best thing to do is check the water
> in the tank for bacteria before you use chlorine and then
> choose your bactericide carefully. You may consider hydrogen
> peroxide to be better if you can get enough 
> concentration from pharmacy available sources. 
> Peroxide is a much sweeter chemical than chlorine.
>    Municipal chlorine contents are about
> 6ppm. FYI. Dumping large quantities in without knowing
> concentration is not a good idea because chlorine or
> chloride is fairly toxic to all life,  including you! I
> seem to recall from pesticide courses that sodium chloride
> is lethal for humans at 3500 ppm.
> Don
> 
> > I only ever give the tank chlorine as a shock
> treatment if it's been
> > empty or standing for a few months (or something
> happens to cause me to
> > believe that it's become contaminated), so I've
> probably got some time
> > yet before the municipal chlorine starts causing
> leaks. Still, handy to
> > know nonetheless.
> > 
> > Cheers,
> > Kris
> > 
> > On Tue, Apr 06, 2010 at 07:46:09PM -0700, vmarmei
> wrote:
> >   
> >> Hi Kris.....
> >> I did not install a new tank....I only
> changed/replaced the aluminum top for a new stainless steel
> top. I epoxied and painted the existing inside tank/hull
> wall....replaced the pipes and fittings to stainless steel,
> new hoses and put an 8 inch larger access deck plate for
> easy cleaning of the interior of the tank.
> >>  I do add a little dab of Javex to the clean
> water......this chlorine over the years eats up the aluminum
> top and always contaminates the clean water....it also
> promoted water leaks from the bow.....that is the reason I
> did the work.
> >> The new water had a bad smell and taste for a few
> weeks...but after 2/3  changes of water over a month it
> became normal.....I rigged a 12 volt small portable weighted
> bilge pump,which I can now dump into the bottom of the tank
> and pump the whole tankful over board in a few minutes.
> >> This pump also helps to empty the tank before haul
> out......it is a nice conversation piece and makes me lots
> of A-30 friends who want to borrow it.
> >> William
> >> 
> >> 
> >> At 10:16 AM 06/04/2010, you wrote:
> >> 
> >>     
> >>> I've been contemplating dropping in a
> stainless tanky myself? Any
> >>> recommendations from your experience?
> >>> 
> >>> Cheers,
> >>> Kris
> >>> 
> >>> On Tue, Apr 06, 2010 at 09:32:58AM -0700,
> vmarmei wrote:
> >>>       
> >>>> Hi.....
> >>>> Your water tank is below there....No
> storage space below.  If you want to
> >>>> remove that teakwood piece from top of the
> tank...take a coat hanger and
> >>>> make a very small hook to its end (a
> straight wire with a very small "L"
> >>>> or a "V").
> >>>> Remove wood screws from the outside panels
> and stick the wire down from
> >>>> the inside corner gap and lift the panel
> out...it is possible that you
> >>>> might have to use two wires from
> diagonally opposite
> >>>> corners.....depending how tight the fit
> is... that you have in your boat.
> >>>> I removed mine that way when I replaced
> the whole water tank top with a
> >>>> new stainless steel one. I changed the
> whole tank top without destroying
> >>>> any teakwood or furniture inside the boat.
> I had to get to the rivets.
> >>>> Piece of cake.
> >>>> Have a good summer and a happy sailing
> season.
> >>>> William
> >>>> 
> >>>> At 07:54 AM 06/04/2010, you wrote:
> >>>> 
> >>>>         
> >>>>> Between the V-Berths on my 1979 A-30,
> is a small shelf with a cushion
> >>>>> on top of it.  Underneath the
> shelf, is what looks like a great little
> >>>>> storage area but it's sealed up. 
> Has anybody opened that up for
> >>>>> storage?
> >>>>> 
> >>>>> John Irving
> >>>>> Scotch Bonnet, #634
> >>>>> 
> >>>>> 
> >>>>> 
> >>>>>
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> >>> --
> >>> Kris Coward         
>                
>            http://unripe.melon.org/
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> > 
> >   
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