[Public-List] V Berth Cubby
vmarmei
vmarmei at axis-design.org
Wed Apr 7 08:30:35 PDT 2010
Hi...
It is not like I am filling the water tank with chlorine.....I only
dump 4 soup spoon fulls of the stuff in there.....However Hydrogen
Peroxide is definitely a better idea.
Since we are on this similar subject of Peroxide.....Has anyone used
or have or knows of a cheap "Ozonizer" ....( A device to produce
Ionized form of oxygen). .......I am trying to build one as the ones
available for marine use are running around +/- $ 3000 to
4500 smakaroos.....way over the price of a new mainsail and a case
of Main Bracer.
William
At 06:29 AM 07/04/2010, you wrote:
>Kris Coward wrote:
>>Hi William,
>>
>>Changing the top and painting the inside would probably more than suffice
>>for me (and even that's somewhere near the bottom of my to-do list --
>>but then things have a habit of breaking and reorganizing to-do lists,
>>so...). Since my contemplation is usually provoked by the little white
>>bits in the water when the tank is low, or the weather's been heavy, I'm
>>going to assume that they're little pieces of aluminum salts all eaten
>>from the top of the tank.
>>
>The assumption that these are aluminum salts may not be justified.
>The flakes are much more likely to be calcium or magnesium
>carbonate salts from our hard water that have precipitated out
>because of changing water temperatures and similar reactions to any
>aluminum oxidation reactions but since calcium and magnesium are
>higher on the activity scale, they will react before aluminum will.
>Chlorine will only increase the number of flakes as you will find
>them similar to those with CLR. With these calcium compounds
>present, and chlorine, you get calcium chloride, a water soluble,
>deliquescent and efflorescent salt. This needs to be completely
>washed out of the tank system because it will keep releasing free
>chloride ions once dissolved in water (that it can attract from
>humidity in the air) which acts as a weak acid upon dissociation.
>The chlorine may then react with the aluminum and etch the surface
>if there is not enough calcium in the water to neutralize that reaction.
> The best thing to do is check the water in the tank for bacteria
> before you use chlorine and then choose your bactericide carefully.
> You may consider hydrogen peroxide to be better if you can get enough
>concentration from pharmacy available sources. Peroxide is a much
>sweeter chemical than chlorine.
> Municipal chlorine contents are about 6ppm. FYI. Dumping large
> quantities in without knowing concentration is not a good idea
> because chlorine or chloride is fairly toxic to all
> life, including you! I seem to recall from pesticide courses that
> sodium chloride is lethal for humans at 3500 ppm.
>Don
>
>>I only ever give the tank chlorine as a shock treatment if it's been
>>empty or standing for a few months (or something happens to cause me to
>>believe that it's become contaminated), so I've probably got some time
>>yet before the municipal chlorine starts causing leaks. Still, handy to
>>know nonetheless.
>>
>>Cheers,
>>Kris
>>
>>On Tue, Apr 06, 2010 at 07:46:09PM -0700, vmarmei wrote:
>>
>>>Hi Kris.....
>>>I did not install a new tank....I only changed/replaced the
>>>aluminum top for a new stainless steel top. I epoxied and painted
>>>the existing inside tank/hull wall....replaced the pipes and
>>>fittings to stainless steel, new hoses and put an 8 inch larger
>>>access deck plate for easy cleaning of the interior of the tank.
>>> I do add a little dab of Javex to the clean water......this
>>> chlorine over the years eats up the aluminum top and always
>>> contaminates the clean water....it also promoted water leaks from
>>> the bow.....that is the reason I did the work.
>>>The new water had a bad smell and taste for a few weeks...but after 2/3
>>>changes of water over a month it became normal.....I rigged a 12
>>>volt small portable weighted bilge pump,which I can now dump into
>>>the bottom of the tank and pump the whole tankful over board in a few minutes.
>>>This pump also helps to empty the tank before haul out......it is
>>>a nice conversation piece and makes me lots of A-30 friends who
>>>want to borrow it.
>>>William
>>>
>>>
>>>At 10:16 AM 06/04/2010, you wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>I've been contemplating dropping in a stainless tanky myself? Any
>>>>recommendations from your experience?
>>>>
>>>>Cheers,
>>>>Kris
>>>>
>>>>On Tue, Apr 06, 2010 at 09:32:58AM -0700, vmarmei wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>Hi.....
>>>>>Your water tank is below there....No storage space below. If you want to
>>>>>remove that teakwood piece from top of the tank...take a coat hanger and
>>>>>make a very small hook to its end (a straight wire with a very small "L"
>>>>>or a "V").
>>>>>Remove wood screws from the outside panels and stick the wire down from
>>>>>the inside corner gap and lift the panel out...it is possible that you
>>>>>might have to use two wires from diagonally opposite
>>>>>corners.....depending how tight the fit is... that you have in your boat.
>>>>>I removed mine that way when I replaced the whole water tank top with a
>>>>>new stainless steel one. I changed the whole tank top without destroying
>>>>>any teakwood or furniture inside the boat. I had to get to the rivets.
>>>>>Piece of cake.
>>>>>Have a good summer and a happy sailing season.
>>>>>William
>>>>>
>>>>>At 07:54 AM 06/04/2010, you wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>Between the V-Berths on my 1979 A-30, is a small shelf with a cushion
>>>>>>on top of it. Underneath the shelf, is what looks like a great little
>>>>>>storage area but it's sealed up. Has anybody opened that up for
>>>>>>storage?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>John Irving
>>>>>>Scotch Bonnet, #634
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
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>>>>--
>>>>Kris Coward http://unripe.melon.org/
>>>>GPG Fingerprint: 2BF3 957D 310A FEEC 4733 830E 21A4 05C7 1FEB 12B3
>>>>_______________________________________________
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>>
>>
>_______________________________________________
>These businesses support your Association:
>http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
>Please support them.
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>
>
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