[Public-List] combing repairs

Roger L. Kingsland r.kingsland at ksba.com
Mon Aug 23 11:00:49 PDT 2010


Just figured it meant really, really incompatible. 


Roger Kingsland, Managing Partner
Kingsland Scott Bauer Associates

 

KSBA 
________________________________

Architects/Planners/InteriorDesigners/ProjectManagers
 
3441 Butler Street
Pittsburgh, PA 15201
N 40° 27.8344'  W79° 57.9831'
 
412-252-1500 ext.101 
412-779-5101 cell 
412-252-1510 fax
r.kingsland at ksba.com
www.ksba.com

-----Original Message-----
From: public-list-bounces at lists.alberg30.org
[mailto:public-list-bounces at lists.alberg30.org] On Behalf Of Gordon Laco
Sent: Monday, August 23, 2010 1:30 PM
To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
Subject: Re: [Public-List] combing repairs

Cool - I'll add that to my lexicon... And I am glad you figured out what I
meant by "incapapibility"!

Gord




On 23/08/10 1:26 PM, "Roger L. Kingsland" <r.kingsland at ksba.com> wrote:

> Thanks Gord,
> 
> Drift it is.
> 
> My sole knowledge of "spud": Years ago I had the pleasure of sailing 
> on Pride of Baltimore from Erie to Toronto through the Welland (sp?)
Canal.
> Some of the concrete piers we tied up to between locks were just a 
> foot or two above the water.  The crew used long timbers they called 
> "spuds" mounted vertically outboard of the fenders to hold her off 
> these low piers (my guess is fenders alone near the waterline would 
> not work because they would be below the fat part of the hull [below 
> the "tumblehome"?]). Sounds like a similar "vertical......to hold in
position" but a different application.
> 
> Roger    
> 
> 
> Roger Kingsland, Managing Partner
> Kingsland Scott Bauer Associates
> 
>  
> 
> KSBA
> ________________________________
> 
> Architects/Planners/InteriorDesigners/ProjectManagers
>  
> 3441 Butler Street
> Pittsburgh, PA 15201
> N 40° 27.8344'  W79° 57.9831'
>  
> 412-252-1500 ext.101
> 412-779-5101 cell
> 412-252-1510 fax
> r.kingsland at ksba.com
> www.ksba.com
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: public-list-bounces at lists.alberg30.org
> [mailto:public-list-bounces at lists.alberg30.org] On Behalf Of Gordon 
> Laco
> Sent: Monday, August 23, 2010 1:05 PM
> To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] combing repairs
> 
> Hi again -
> 
> I haven't seen how large your cracks are...but my suggestion would be 
> don't do it.  Teak is notorious for its long term incapapibility with any
glue.
> You will likely have more trouble in the future and will be dealing 
> with two cracks (the sides of the inlay) instead of just one.
> 
> I think the drift idea is the best way to stabilize things.
> 
> Spud - well the kind I am familiar with is the vertically dropped rod 
> or pipe dredgers use to hold themselves in position....
> 
> Gord
> 
> 
> On 23/08/10 1:01 PM, "Roger L. Kingsland" <r.kingsland at ksba.com> wrote:
> 
>> Thanks Gord, most appreciated.  Not that I want to go to the trouble 
>> but, do you think if I also routed out the cracks and added an approx.
>> 1/8" inch deep x 3/8" "inlay" of teak that would eliminate or lessen 
>> the
> cracks?
>> 
>> PS - I will bet you know what a "spud" is?
>> 
>> Roger
>> 
>> Hi Roger,
>> 
>> The vertical rods are called 'drifts' and are a good solution.   Anything
>> you put into the cracks will eventually make the problem worse as the 
>> wood expands and contracts.  On the expansion side the wood will 
>> press against your filler (hard epoxy or soft caulk) and the crack 
>> will grow.  On the contraction side the wood will shrink back from 
>> the filler and the crack will be as apparent as before you put the filler
in.
>> 
>> If you make yourself a drift of threaded rod, and slide it in while 
>> coated with epoxy, you will have about as strong a solution as 
>> possible.  The cracks that are already there will just become the
> character of the boat.
>> In the old days they used to fill them by rubbing beeswax over them.
>> That will give you a flat surface to varnish, and when the wood 
>> expands it will find the wax soft and non-adhesive enough that it can 
>> squish it out however much it has to before the split is forced to grow.
>> 
>> Gord #426 Surprise
>> 
>> 
>> On 23/08/10 12:10 PM, "Roger L. Kingsland" <r.kingsland at ksba.com> wrote:
>> 
>>> Hi again,
>>>  
>>> I have cracks in my cockpit combing boards.  I have plugged all 45 
>>> holes, sanded and refinished the original boards.  I think the 
>>> cracks resulted from my poor installation that caused some shear 
>>> stress that I will fix on the reinstall.  My question is how to 
>>> repair the cracks (some about 16" long) so they don't reappear.  I 
>>> thought of adding a few butterfly joints but have also seen metal 
>>> rods placed perpendicular to the grain inside the wood.  Any
suggestions?
>>>  
>>> Thanks,
>>>  
>>> Roger 148
>>>  
>>> Roger Kingsland, Managing Partner
>>> Kingsland Scott Bauer Associates
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> KSBA 
>>>   _____
>>> 
>>> Architects/Planners/InteriorDesigners/ProjectManagers
>>>  
>>> 3441 Butler Street
>>> Pittsburgh, PA 15201
>>> N 40° 27.8344'  W79° 57.9831'
>>>  
>>> 412-252-1500 ext.101
>>> 412-779-5101 cell
>>> 412-252-1510 fax
>>>  <blocked::blocked::mailto:r.kingsland at ksba.com> 
>>> r.kingsland at ksba.com <blocked::blocked::http://www.ksba.com/> 
>>> www.ksba.com
>>>  
>>> _______________________________________________
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