[Public-List] Cutlass Bearing Flange Alberg 30

[Gordon Laco]

Good points John - you are correct about SS underwater... Bronze can be iffy
too if the alloy is not correct.

When my cutlass bearing came off I found that one of the bolts had corroded
to the consistency of a biscuit.  It was just crumbly powder under a head
that look fine.  I was able to get the stump out by clipping vice grips on
it and gently turning it out.


Gord #426 Surprise


On 22/07/10 9:52 AM, "John Birch" <Sunstone at cogeco.ca> wrote:

> Hi Peter,
> 
> They are lag bolts, tapped into the glass. There are no inserts.
> 
> Periodically, all bronze bolts underwater should be removed and inspected -
> perhaps once a decade or so. You should never use SS Bolts (deprived of
> oxygen, they become active and move the wrong way on the periodic table.
> 
> Buying silicon or manganese bronze marine bolts is hard to do, go to a
> reputable supplier - in the Toronto area go to Pacific Fasteners on Chauncey
> Drive off Islington to make sure you are getting the right bronze or monell
> fastners.
> 
> There are some instances where drilling and tapping machine screws into
> fiberglass is helpful to ensure a stronger attachment. One example I've done
> is the traveler track, another are the winches, all followed with as wide a
> washer or plate as can be fitted below and then lock washers, thread
> Locktight and then a nut. It makes for a particularly strong attachment that
> means the whole glassed area would have to break off - and I cant imagine
> the load necessary to cause such a failure.
> 
> The cutlass bearing attachment is threaded on to the bronze shaft tube,
> which is bedded throughout its internal length in the hull with Dolfinite
> from the factory, or some other adhesive caulk if retrofitted, then the
> bearing housing turned onto the threads on the tube and then the housing is
> bolted into place. I suspect the cutlass housing would do just fine without
> the bolts, but why test the theory. Ensure the lag bolts are going into
> solid glass and not into resin starved glass and insert them with lots of
> caulking on the threads.
> 
> Water migration into the glass will over time degrade the glass. If your
> holes are degraded, suggest adding a fresh low viscosity epoxy resin to
> re-wet the glass fibers after ensuring is all dried out.
> 
> Those lag bolts were cut with a tap to create the threads into the glass.
> You cant just drill a hole and use self tapping lag bolts or you'll crack
> the glass. The holes have to be threaded with a tap set first.
> 
> Caulking is critical to prevent water seepage into the holes, which will
> eventually break down the resin/glass bond in the area if allowed to seep
> in.
> 
> Hope this is a help
> 
> Best
> 
> John
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jeffrey" <fongemie at gmail.com>
> To: "Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all" <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> Sent: Thursday, July 22, 2010 8:53 AM
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Cutlass Bearing Flange Alberg 30
> 
> 
>> They screw into the fiberglass. Not sure if there are any inserts or
>> nuts imbedded in the fiberglass or not. I couldn't tell for sure when
>> I had mine off this spring. it looked to be just fiberglass.
>> 
>> -jeff
>> 
>> Jeff Fongemie
>> #116 Seagrass
>> 
>> http://picasaweb.google.com/fongemie
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On Thu, Jul 22, 2010 at 8:30 AM, Peter Milley <milleype at kingston.net>
>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Do the two bolts behind the propeller on the Al 30, holding the cutlass
>>> bearing flange to the hull just screw into the fiberglass or are there
>>> nuts
>>> behind them on the inside of the hull?
>>> 
>>> Peter Milley
>>> 
>>> _______________________________________________
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>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -- 
>> Jeffrey Fongemie
>> _______________________________________________
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> 
> 
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