[Public-List] Cutlass Bearing Flange Alberg 30

vmarmei vmarmei at axis-design.org
Thu Jul 22 08:30:35 PDT 2010

No....They are only threaded in ...No nuts behind.....two bolts only.
I cleaned the threads with a tap and re-epoxied the whole holes... 
re-tapped the new threads.....the tap carefully follows the old thread.
Also I used Sea-caulk inside the holes and around the threads. 
Sea-caulk stays soft and pliable for the rest of the boats 
life.....but is water proof.
You have to unscrew the aluminum housing carefully from the brass 
pipe.....have someone hold the brass pipe from inside the hull so 
that the seal does not open. Also re-caulk liberally the whole 
housing cavity and flat face behind with Sea-caulk.
While your aluminum housing is out clean and enlarge slightly with a 
Dremel-grinder the water inlet ports for the cutlass bearing. This 
thing here is an aluminum sand casting  and  sometimes the water 
inlet holes are kinda small,tapered or half plugged up. This cutlass 
bearing works and wears way less when there is a good water flow 
through the bearing.....this little grinding will save you changing 
the bearing for another 5 years.

If you are also changing the bearing .....make the bearing 
longer....1/2 or 3/4 inch whatever space you have in between the 
housing and the propellor....longer bearing extends bearing life. I 
have my bearing sticking out for about 3/4 inch.
Take care
Villo A30-KC

At 08:30 AM 22/07/2010, you wrote:

>Do the two bolts behind the propeller on the Al 30, holding the cutlass
>bearing flange to the hull just screw into the fiberglass or are there nuts
>behind them on the inside of the hull?
>Peter Milley
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