[Public-List] Cutlass Bearing Flange Alberg 30
vmarmei at axis-design.org
Thu Jul 22 08:30:35 PDT 2010
No....They are only threaded in ...No nuts behind.....two bolts only.
I cleaned the threads with a tap and re-epoxied the whole holes...
re-tapped the new threads.....the tap carefully follows the old thread.
Also I used Sea-caulk inside the holes and around the threads.
Sea-caulk stays soft and pliable for the rest of the boats
life.....but is water proof.
You have to unscrew the aluminum housing carefully from the brass
pipe.....have someone hold the brass pipe from inside the hull so
that the seal does not open. Also re-caulk liberally the whole
housing cavity and flat face behind with Sea-caulk.
While your aluminum housing is out clean and enlarge slightly with a
Dremel-grinder the water inlet ports for the cutlass bearing. This
thing here is an aluminum sand casting and sometimes the water
inlet holes are kinda small,tapered or half plugged up. This cutlass
bearing works and wears way less when there is a good water flow
through the bearing.....this little grinding will save you changing
the bearing for another 5 years.
If you are also changing the bearing .....make the bearing
longer....1/2 or 3/4 inch whatever space you have in between the
housing and the propellor....longer bearing extends bearing life. I
have my bearing sticking out for about 3/4 inch.
At 08:30 AM 22/07/2010, you wrote:
>Do the two bolts behind the propeller on the Al 30, holding the cutlass
>bearing flange to the hull just screw into the fiberglass or are there nuts
>behind them on the inside of the hull?
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