[Public-List] Remove Teak Toe Rails/Hull Deck Paint Job

[Bob Crinion]

I will take some pics of my shed and boat and try to do up a write up
with pics.

I hope to reuse the teak toe rails, they are in mostly good condition.

My shed is 34 ft long 14 ft wide and about 16- 17 feet high covered with
green house plastic.
The shed is made with 18 ft long pieces of 1" by 3" strapping with 6"
long  2" by 3" blocks as spacers between the 2 bow shaped arches. I
built the arches using a jig screwed to the wharf deck. I used Auto Cad
to draw the arches and figure the Chord length of the arch as well as
the height and width so I would know where to place the jig fixtures.

Thanks all for the tips, I like the 3M 5200 idea on the hull deck joint.

Is there any slick way to remove the deck hardware without having
someone on the inside to hold a wrench?

I will post other questions later when I get further on with the
project.


Thanks,
-bob


-----Original Message-----
From: public-list-bounces at lists.alberg30.org
[mailto:public-list-bounces at lists.alberg30.org] On Behalf Of
mahseer at kos.net
Sent: March-21-10 11:48 AM
To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
Subject: Re: [Public-List] Remove Teak Toe Rails/Hull Deck Paint Job

Bob
I have done what you want to do and although daunting it is not that
difficult.  Having an enclosure will make the job so much easier and
quicker but make sure your enclosure has enough head room (mine didn't
making moving around on deck difficult).  First removing the toe rail
was
easy, to remove the teak bungs I drilled a small hole in the centre then
using inserting a screw they just pulled out.  Please remove ALL
hardware 
including windows, deck fittings etc if you are going to repaint this
will
make the job go faster.  Clean out and make bigger all through deck
holes
fill with epoxy and re-drill for you bolts. The SS toe rail bolts on my
1969 a none liner #380 have a drill type end that on installation cut a
thread on the inside hull fibreglass and no nuts on the inside. I
removed
all of these cleaned out using 5200 then on installation I used Nylon
nuts
as well on the inside. If your toe-rail is in good condition
re-installation is easy because all the existing hole will line up just
use new SS screws. All of this including painting the hull and re-doing
the floor was done over one winter at a friend house 40 miles from my
home
so all the work  was done only on weekends.  It sounds daunting but with
discipline it can be done.

John Boor
MAHSEER #380


> My boat is Hull# 560 with a hull liner.
>
>
>
> Has anyone removed the teak toe rails and resealed the hull deck
joint?
>
> Is it a big job to remove the teak toe rails?
>
>
>
> Do you use 3m 5200 to reseal the deck or something else?
>
>
>
> Was it possible to rebolt the deck with SS 1/4" machine screws or do
you
> have to use Aluminum or SS rivets in some places?
>
>
>
> I have a variety of leaks mostly along the hull deck joint, some from
> what looks like corroded aluminum rivets and some leaks from the
screws
> that hold down the teak toe rails. Some of the leaks are in the vee
> berth and eventually find their way into the bunks and others in the
> salon cupboards.
>
>
>
> I have sailed the boat for at least 6 years and would like to fix the
> leaks once and for all...
>
>
>
> The deck is a light blue color, badly faded and is in need of a paint
> job.
>
> The non skid is not too bad but in areas on the vertical surfaces
along
> the coach roof you can see worn areas showing a black substance in the
> worn gelcoat.
>
>
>
> The boat yard folks have suggested at 36 years perhaps an overhaul is
> finally needed and suggested Awlgrip on the hull and deck. One
> suggestion was to roll and tip Awlgrip on the deck and spray the hull.
>
>
>
> The deck requires some repair in some of the stantion areas.
>
> I built a plastic bow shaped shed (34' by 14') to house the boat for
> this project with fluorescent lights inside.
>
>
>
> Sometimes I think I may be about to bite of more than I can chew on
this
> one...
>
>
>
> I am thinking of removing all the deck hardware, windows etc and
> replacing the windows with tinted ones.
>
>
>
> Any suggestions and feedback would be greatly appreciated.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> -bob
>
>
>
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