[Public-List] Atomic 4 mechanic?

Meinhold, Michael J. MICHAEL.J.MEINHOLD at saic.com
Mon May 24 08:01:46 PDT 2010


Jock -
 No, but when your coil is intermittently failing due to heat-driven expansion, it is also breaking down and will eventually fail altogether. If this is your orignal coil it's certainly worth the $50 for a new one.

  That said, depending on your fuel delivery circuit, it may take some effort to "re-prime" it. An electric fuel pump helps a lot, but if you don't have one, you should shut of the cooling water through hull valve and close the choke, and expect a bit of cranking to get fuel back to the carburetor.

Mike
Rinn Duin #272
-----Original Message-----
From: public-list-bounces at lists.alberg30.org [mailto:public-list-bounces at lists.alberg30.org] On Behalf Of Jock McClees
Sent: Monday, May 24, 2010 10:54 AM
To: 'Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all'
Subject: Re: [Public-List] Atomic 4 mechanic?

Mike,
The second day that I started the engine, it only ran for maybe 30 seconds.
It probably conked out because I had shut off the gas to check the fuel filter and forgotten to open the valve again. But it wouldn't start after that. Is 30 seconds or so enough time to heat up the coil so it won't start again?
Thanks,
Jock

-----Original Message-----
From: public-list-bounces at lists.alberg30.org
[mailto:public-list-bounces at lists.alberg30.org] On Behalf Of Meinhold, Michael J.
Sent: Monday, May 24, 2010 10:25 AM
To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
Subject: Re: [Public-List] Atomic 4 mechanic?

The coil is not difficult to change.

It is on a bracket off the aft end of the engine, about centered. It's a black cylinder.

A high-voltage cable goes from the the coil to the center of the distributor. The coil also has a low voltage positive wire from the ignition switch, and a ground wire.  Often other devices are attached at the postive side of the coil. Keep track of what's attached where if you take it off.

You can get a new coil at Annapolis Napa, or other automotive supply, or Moyer Marine.

Mike
Rinn Duin #272

-----Original Message-----
From: public-list-bounces at lists.alberg30.org
[mailto:public-list-bounces at lists.alberg30.org] On Behalf Of Jock McClees
Sent: Monday, May 24, 2010 10:16 AM
To: 'Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all'
Subject: Re: [Public-List] Atomic 4 mechanic?

I meant to say John Vosbury, not John White. I will give him a call.
Is the coil difficult to change? Where is it?
Jock

-----Original Message-----
From: public-list-bounces at lists.alberg30.org
[mailto:public-list-bounces at lists.alberg30.org] On Behalf Of Mike Lehman
Sent: Monday, May 24, 2010 8:20 AM
To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
Subject: Re: [Public-List] Atomic 4 mechanic?


Jock

 

Your problem is the coil - when the coil heats up when the engine runs for a few minutes the windings in the coil expand and lose connection, when it cools down, it starts again, but only until the coil heats up.

 

If you are looking for a mechanic (John White was not an engine mechanic) the best around for the Atomic 4 is John Vosbury (Vosbury Marine Engines).

 
Mike Lehman 

 
><((((º>`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
 
 






 
> From: mccleesj at comcast.net
> To: public-list at lists.alberg30.org
> Date: Sun, 23 May 2010 22:21:28 -0400
> Subject: [Public-List] Atomic 4 mechanic?
> 
> 
> Although I have a Cal 36 now instead of an Alberg, I still have an 
> Atomic
4.
> I heard that John White has retired? Can anyone recommend a good 
> Atomic 4 mechanic who would come to PSA on the Magothy?
> 
> Friday my engine started up and ran while I was untying dock lines and
> 1/2 way to the mooring when it quit on me. I got it started again and 
> it died again, so I towed the boat by rowing the dinghy the rest of 
> the
way.
Luckily
> no wind.
> 
> Today, Sunday, I tried to start it again. It started just fine and 
> then
died
> in a few seconds and wouldn't start again. The gas is turned on. There 
> is gas. I checked the fuel filter and it seems OK. I opened the 
> distributor
cap
> and there doesn't seem to be any corrosion but I don't know much about 
> engines so I am not really sure what I should be looking for in the 
> distributor. I replaced the wires 2-3 years ago and haven't used the 
> boat that much so I can't imagine they are bad.
> 
> Besides recommending a mechanic, anyone have any ideas what might be 
> the problem?
> Thanks,
> Jock
> 
> 
> 
> Could it be something blocking the vent on the gas tank?
> 
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