[Public-List] Re-wiring

[Kris Coward]

Up here in the Godforsaken Howling Northern Wilderness, I'm happy to
have 2 AC outlets on the boat. One in the galley that can run one of
them forced-air type electric space heaters, and another up in the
V-berth that runs the electric blanket and a little oil-filled heater.
Of course, were I even farther north, I think that I'd just have to
install a solid fuel furnace and take to burning coal :)

Cheers,
Kris

On Mon, Oct 04, 2010 at 09:24:51AM -0400, mahseer at kos.net wrote:
> A wire run should be measured from the distribution panel back to a common
> ground buss at the panel.  Wires from the battery to the panel should be
> sized for max current drawn and voltage drop for all circuits.  Each
> individual circuit will less than this.  I am not in favour of running
> cables through a conduit I believe and have read of incidences where heat
> has been generated and caused fires, also running multiple cables causes
> them to twist making it next to impossible to add others plus you have a
> limited number of wires that can be put in conduit.  If you do decide to
> use conduit and use a common ground (DC negative) make sure it is sized
> for all circuits max current drawn.  Finally I see no reason to run AC
> through out an Alberg30.  I have one AC GFI just passed my 20 amp dual
> disconnect that is used in my galley , the load side feeds one duplex that
> feeds my 12/120v fridge and my correctly sized battery charges everything
> else is 12 volts.
> 
> John Boor
> MAHSEER #380
> 
> > I've rewired my entire boat except for the engine and mast. All the advice
> > about crimps etc is spot on IMLTHO. Two things I'll add are:
> >
> > 1. Ancor has charts for figuring out what size of wire to use for each
> > run.
> > DO NOT guess how long the run is; you will be wrong. Run a fish tape or
> > test wire and measure it. A run is measured from the battery, to the
> > breaker panel, out to the device, back to the panel, and finally, back to
> > the battery.
> >
> > 2. Home Depot carries flexible conduit in orange and blue. Orange is for
> > DC
> > and Blue is for AC. It works well if you plan things out and don't try to
> > make sharp bends. The conduit will bend but it become really hard to do
> > the
> > wire pulls if it's bent too much. Leave gaps for drainage. Two cool things
> > about the conduit. The AC and DC circuits are clearly separated. When I
> > want to add a circuit I just pull the wire. I don't have twenty plus zip
> > ties to cut and replace. The wire is also support along it's entire length
> > as opposed to just at the tie bases. (Ok, so that three things...)
> >
> > Greg
> >
> > S/V Ayla
> >
> >
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> 
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-- 
Kris Coward					http://unripe.melon.org/
GPG Fingerprint: 2BF3 957D 310A FEEC 4733  830E 21A4 05C7 1FEB 12B3

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