[Public-List] Diesel Help

[Roger L. Kingsland]

Slightly tongue-in-cheek; but, how about an electric dip stick and/or a 150W
light bulb underneath to keep the old girl warm at the dock.

Roger 148

PS - had 10 people helping on GO148 last week and made good progress toward
spring launch; Wife Jeanne, "Boot Stripe", Kingsland discovered and fixed
substantial misalignment of boot stripe aft; discovered and fixed exposed
wood at bottom of rudder; drilled hole for FLS sonar; made all kinds of
nunesessary tents to try to keep the rain out.  

 

 


-----Original Message-----
From: public-list-bounces at lists.alberg30.org
[mailto:public-list-bounces at lists.alberg30.org] On Behalf Of Jonathan Adams
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2011 1:20 PM
To: public-list at alberg30.org; Alberg 30 Member List
Subject: [Public-List] Diesel Help

Well I finally have a question that I really need an answer to - versus one 
where I am looking for an opinion!

I have a Yanmar 2GMF. It is between 20 and 25 years old, and for the last
couple 
of years has been having a hard time starting - I might have to crank the
engine 
for a number of extended periods - minutes. This spring, I had Bayshore
Marine 
look at the engine, and they checked injectors and performed a compression
test. 
The injectors are fine, and the engine once started runs well. If it is
warm, it 
starts immediately no problem. Once running, it can hit its top revs (~4k+) 
under no load - which indicates that the fuel pump / timing is good.

The result of this visit - other than lightening my wallet - was that the
lack 
of compression was creating the problem. It is meant to be 469lbs and is 400
in 
#1 and 415 in #2. The only way to deal with this is to check either the head
or 
the piston rings. Either way it is an expensive proposition. can I get it to

last the season? It is only a matter of time before I burn out the starter
motor 
and / or drain my batteries.

The mechanic recommended:

1. release the compression on the cylinders, and crank the engine to warm
things 
up, and then start

2. While doing this close the water intake valve, as the  muffler has no
exhaust 
to speak of when you are cranking and will fill up with water which could
back 
into the engine.

3. He recommended putting CRC into the air intake to help seal the pistons.
He 
did not recommend starting fluids as these damaged seals. Someone else has 
recommended putting in heavier oil.

Any advice from the crowd? If I send the engine to Bayshore, I essentially
get a 
new engine, as they will warrenty it, and totally overhaul it while it is
out. 
However, this is sure to seriously impact the boat fund. Any recommendations
for 
a good mechanic that is not a crack head? The reason I went back to Bayshore
was 
I kept running into crack head mechanics.

Jonathan
197
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