[Public-List] foredeck compression, (and bedding deck hardware)

[Roger L. Kingsland]

Thanks Kirk,

Good old 148 has decks w/ 3 layers of FG and 2 of Masonite so I am thinking
it would be a rough job trying to chop out the core with a bent nail or
Allen wrench.  I think it would be important to have the deck overlap the
epoxy sleeve so there is a horizontal joint between the two (at the bottom
surface of the deck layer).  That would allow the base of the fitting to
compress the only joint where water could get into the deck cavity (assuming
the sleeve dosen't crack from over tightning of the bolt).

How about this for masonite decks; 1) drill the mounting holes from the top,
2) get a small diameter hole saw with the same diameter mandrill as the top
drilled hole, 3) drill the hole saw up from below to the bottom of the top
layer of FG (apply some kind of restrainer to prevent hole saw from going
too far), 4) knock out the cylinder and scrape off the bottom of the top FG
layer, 5) install backer plate (I use Micarta and epoxy with adheasive
filler added), 6) fill holes with epoxy from the top (just to the bottom
side of the deck layer so you can register the drill bit), 7) redrill the
holes thru the new sleeve and backer plate, 8) make a slight bevel in the
top of the hole, 9a) goop and bolt lightly then come back and bolt more (so
goop forms an "o" ring around the shaft, or 9b) put rubber "o" ring on the
bolt shaft and goop and bolt.

No runs, no drips, no errors (maybe).

Best,

Roger 148 
  

-----Original Message-----
From: public-list-bounces at lists.alberg30.org
[mailto:public-list-bounces at lists.alberg30.org] On Behalf Of Kirk Little
Sent: Thursday, January 20, 2011 4:32 AM
To: public-list at lists.alberg30.org
Subject: Re: [Public-List] foredeck compression, (and bedding deck hardware)


Roger, The technique I used was to put slightly modified (cut them with a
grinder) allen keys into the drill and bore out only the  balsa core keeping
the original holes in the fiberglass.  Then tape the bottom hole inside the
boat, fill cavity with west epoxy via a plastic surenge, then redrill (make
sure you drill straight).  I think Nigel Calder or one of the other boat
maintenence how-to books gives a detailed description.  It really isn't that
much work if you are re-bedding something anyway.   I might add that I had a
small amount of rotted core especially around some of the old poorly bedded
pieces, and by getting aggressive and using various sizes of Alen keys, and
a few extra small holes in the deck, I was able to adequately stiffen the
deck and eliminate the 'sponginess' by digging out rotten balsa and
injecting epoxy without actually pulling up any of the deck.  Maybe not what
some consider the proper or 'best' fix but for smaller areas it seems to get
the job done
  well enough with minimal time, effort, or skill.  I also agree with using
the slow epoxy, slightly thickened.  Less bubbles and other issues
especially when filling larger cavities. Oh, I also did this same job when
re-bedding the chain plates, and although it takes work with drills, rasps,
and files to re-form the holes, like everything else, they haven't leaked
either, in years.
 		 	   		  
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