[Public-List] foredeck compression, (and bedding deck hardware)

[Mike Lehman]

John
 
This describes the method we have used on the ports. After the frames are completely clean, re-install with caulking and tighten 'almost' all the way (about 1 turn from completely tight) then wait until the caulk cures (about 24 hours) and do the final tightening. The windows (er I mean ports) never leak when this proceedure is followed.

 
Mike Lehman 

 
><((((º>`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
 
 






 
> Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2011 17:00:26 -0500
> From: mahseer at kos.net
> To: r.kingsland at ksba.com; public-list at lists.alberg30.org
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] foredeck compression, (and bedding deck hardware)
> 
> One method told to me but not tried is to bevel the top of the hole add a
> circle of 4200 or equivalent then loosely install, allow sealant to cure
> then do a final tightening. This appears to work by making an "O" ring
> around the bolt by not fully tightening down, I would also not turn the
> bolt but just the nylon nut to make sure the bond at the threads is not
> broken.
> 
> John Boor
> MAHSEER #380
> >
> > I guess Gord's point was that the epoxy sleeve technique was also
> > necessary
> > to keep water out, something I thought could be accomplished by slightly
> > beveling the top of the hole and putting an appropriately sized "O" ring
> > around the bolt shaft and under the fitting base so it gets compressed and
> > seals the top of the hole in the deck.
> >
> > I thought it logical to have some flexible compressed stuff at the only
> > place where water could get in. Unfortunately, what in my mind is not
> > only
> > logical but elegant, occasionally dosen't pass the beta test. What to do
> > now? Whatever I do, I am going to buy one of those non invasive moisture
> > meters (http://www.instrumart.com/Product.aspx?ProductID=17799) and keep
> > checking for moisture around my deck fittings; heck, everywhere.
> >
> > Roger 148
> 
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