[Public-List] crack repair and barrier costs

Rod Symmes weatherhelm at hotmail.com
Fri Mar 18 06:58:36 PDT 2011 



Up front I guess I should say that I am a fresh water sailor - so not sure if this applies to salt water - but :

A few years ago I sandblasted my bottom to expose and fill pinholes and blisters and add 6 coats of barrier coat [ Interprotect ].  My anti fouling had always been ablative but because it had been all removed for the barrier coat, I decided to change to VC-17.  I am thrilled with the result.  It is effective [ only if I skip a year or two do I get a few Zebra mussels ] ,  no buildup [the stuff goes on like you were brushing on gasoline ] and it is as slippery as ........ Teflon.  I sail off a mooring and I overran the mooring on the first attempt every time for the balance of that season.  So I am convinced it is a much faster bottom.  My only regret was that I did not spend even more time fairing to perfection.

Cheers,   Rod

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> From: r.kingsland at ksba.com
> To: public-list at lists.alberg30.org
> Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2011 09:01:35 -0400
> Subject: [Public-List] crack repair and barrier costs
> 
> Hi Michael,
> 
> I had to scrape vs. soda blast because the owner is selling the marina and
> doesn't want to mess up the environmental assessments that start soon.  They
> are about 1/2 through scraping GO148 and it turns out A) if he PO did a
> bottom coat, he must have used really thin, invisible paint and, B) there
> are several hair line and larger cracks in the gel coat which, although
> added work, I am glad to have discovered since the boat will never be dryer
> after 8 years on the trailer.
> 
> I am now researching blister/crack repair and barrier coats and would
> appreciate any advice the "pagers" could provide.  I will go back to the
> page archives as I am sure this isn't the first time this topic has come up.
> I did find this weird web site http://www.epoxyproducts.com/barrier4u.html
> with lots of information but poorly organized.
> 
> Best, Roger
> 
> PS - in defense of my "marina guy", he enjoys a good reputation and didn't
> really mess up the other boat he showed me.  He just used a more lumpy
> ablative paint.  He showed me another power boat that had some kind of
> Teflon paint (VC 17?) that was much smoother; so smooth and slippery, he
> said, the straps slipped when he lifted the boat with his crane.  Sounds
> like "fast" stuff.
>  
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: public-list-bounces at lists.alberg30.org
> [mailto:public-list-bounces at lists.alberg30.org] On Behalf Of
> crufone at comcast.net
> Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2011 5:25 PM
> To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] bottom sanding
> 
> 
> 
> Roger, 
> 
> Confirm if the PO did install a barrier coat and if so what thickness he
> applied. I would strictly caution you against using any grit abrasive paper
> coarser than 80. If you have a barrier coat I might not even use 80 grit and
> move up to 120 for the final stages. There is absolutely no sense in
> removing the barrier coat if it was well done and well applied. 
> 
> FYI what you got from the yard is their way of getting the job done pronto
> with the minimal effort and cost. Why gouge and roughen the surface just to
> have to fair it down again?  This only make sense if they are doing the job
> to meet some kind of cost restraint. 
> 
> Personally I wouldn't let them near my boat. Especially since you have seen
> the mess they have made with others boats. 
> 
> Using the 36 grit even on a D.A. sander they will cut down through the
> bottom paint so fast as to not be able to control going directly through the
> existing barrier coat. Your existing barrier coat is an added valve for your
> boat.........I wouldn't waste it. Carefully smooth off what you have and do
> the fairing as you go. Remember bottom paint can be rolled and tipped just
> as topsides paint. The result is minimal orange peal. 
> 
> Since they normally work on power boats..............I would say their
> mentality is "with three 200's on the transom who gives a S--T how smooth
> the bottom is!!" 
> 
> Roger we know each other well enough that I can speak so frankly about this
> proposal to you.  I beg you don't let them mess up your beautiful boat. I
> have seen all the work you have lovingly bestowed on "Perfect Intentions".
> NOW is not the time to cut corners. You will be very unhappy with the
> appearance and the depreciation of in the water performance after "your
> Marina" gets done with her. 
> 
> Are you using VC-17 (a hard paint) on the bottom?  If so, you could fair in
> between coats. But it is not recommended. Better to fair first and then roll
> and tip the paint. 
> 
> If you are using any kind of ablative paint (a soft paint) then sanding
> between coats is a non starter.  Most instructions are to install coats
> within a certain time period. That is so one coat cures into the other. The
> previous coats are not quite cured before the next goes on, so sanding just
> makes a hugh mess. 
> 
> Michael #133  Call me 239.466.8802 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Roger L. Kingsland " <r. kingsland @ ksba .com> 
> To: " Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all" <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> 
> Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2011 1:51:54 PM 
> Subject: [Public-List] bottom sanding 
> 
> Albergers , 
> 
> I have hired my marina to remove the bottom paint on good old 148 down to 
> the barrier coat the PO did a few rears before I bought the boat.  The 
> marina, used to working on power boats, recommends sanding the barrier coat 
> and/or gel coat w/ 36 grit claiming finer paper will get gummed up right 
> away from the left over paint after scraping.  I looked at other boats they 
> refinished and the bottoms are pretty rough w/ lots of orange peal.  I am 
> concerned that will slow down my race horse; after all, 1/4 of a knot means 
> a lot more at 5 knots than it does at 25. 
> 
> I learned Practical Sailor is reporting on eco-friendly bottom paints this 
> month and figure, if I use one of those, I can sand between coats to achieve
> 
> desired smoothness.  Any suggestions? 
> 
> Best, 
> 
> Roger 148     
> 
> 
> 
> 
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