[Public-List] Portlights

[Meinhold, Michael J.]

The trick is to hold the bolt still and turn the nut to do this final
tightening. If you are reasonably careful you will maintain the seal
around the bolt. Many leak-free windows on the Chesapeake were installed
with the methods described by Mike Lehman on the A30 website.

Mike
Rinn Duin #272 (a Lehman-restored A30)

-----Original Message-----
From: public-list-bounces at lists.alberg30.org
[mailto:public-list-bounces at lists.alberg30.org] On Behalf Of Greg Bover
Sent: Tuesday, May 03, 2011 4:55 PM
To: 'List A-30'
Subject: [Public-List] Portlights

Another thing I remembered: when I had everything out and the openings
cleaned out, I rough-sanded the edges of the openings and painted on
some
West System epoxy with an acid brush in hopes of sealing the core,
(masonite
on my boat). 
I can't find it now, but I remember reading a very strongly worded set
of
directions that argued against letting the silicone set up and then
doing
the final tightening. The author maintained that doing it in this
fashion
would break the seal around and under the machine screw heads and
introduce
leakage at that point. I went so far as to lightly countersink my
frames(which thanks to the PO are 1/4" stainless) and to put a little
caulk
around the underside of every screw head and then tightened all at once.
Obviously lots of ways to skin this particular cat

Greg Bover
Frances Fitch
Linnet #114
Gloucester

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