[Public-List] Question about toe rail on old model of Alberg 30

[Robert Kirk]

Lee... I had the exact same problem with Isobar, of about the same vintage. 
She got bumped at the mooring and the other guy came off much worse. I used 
nominal 1" teak which I picked up from a salvage. The bends and compound 
angles led me to make short sections and finish then with a rasp so no 
bending needed. After angled cuts on the table saw and final smoothing and 
careful scarfing, the pieces fit in nicely and you'd be hard put to notice 
the patching from ,say, a hundred yards away. A particularly hard part was 
removing the old studs which were all bent, and then realigning the holes 
because I wanted to avoid plugging the old holes and drilling new ones. In 
retrospect, that would have been a better idea than trying to match holes. 
I had to carefully reseal the thru-deck holes, anyway. I was lucky enough 
to salvage the dinged up rubrail and to peen it out to it's original looks 
with a homemade dolly I shaped into a jig. Again, something which took too 
much time and there surely must have been a better solution.

Bob Kirk
Isobar # 181

At 12:39 PM 9/28/2011, you wrote:
>Hello my Alberg 30 friends :)
>
>Has anyone replaced the forward section of toe rail on an old model of
>Alberg 30?
>
>Stargazer, a 1967 A30, got hit while she was on her mooring during  Irene,
>and the forward section of the port toe rail was broken in several places
>along about 8 feet of the forward section. The entire forward section up to
>the first scarf has to be replaced.
>
>Her toerail was always 'marginal' :) and could have stood replacement
>earlier, but it was a job I dreaded and put off as long as I could. Now I 
>have
>no choice, at least for this forward section.
>
>Does the teak have to be steamed to make the bend without breaking at the
>fastening holes? Are there other techniques, procedures.......tricks, to
>bend the piece into shape?
>
>Are there different grades of teak that I have to ask for when I'm calling
>around looking for the wood?
>
>Trying to measure the exact replacement thickness of 44 year old teak that
>has been left bare and has shrunk with time is not as easy as I thought it
>would  be. If anyone has replaced this piece, do you remember what
>dimensions of height  and thickness you used to get the wood?
>
>Stargazer got pretty banged up. Besides the broken toe rail, her bow pulpit
>  was bent, port stantions bent, her SS rubrail was peeled back from bow to
>chainplates and bent like a corkscrew, and the topsides were scratched and
>gouged through the gelcoat. The force of the impact broke the port v  berth
>shelf away from the hull, though it looks like the hull just flexed, and
>didn't fracture.
>
>The aft end of the masthead windex broke off!!
>
>The impact broke Stargazer's mushroom out, and she started dragging. After
>about 600 feet, fortunately it caught on something BIG, and she stopped.
>Where  she hung up, at the extremes of her swings her stern was about 7 feet
>from  the topsides of a huge wooden sportfisherman that was in a slip. If she
>hadn't  caught onto whatever it was on the bottom, the damage would have
>been much,  much, worse.
>
>But...............'you should have seen the other guy..'  I don't know  who
>it was that initially hit Stargazer, but he left chunks of plastic rubrail
>and a couple of small pieces of full thickness fiberglass laminate on
>Stargazer's deck. One was actually jammed into the hull to deck seam where 
>the
>ss rubrail was peeled back!
>
>All in all, we got off lucky. Other boats lost their rigs, went up on the
>rocks, or sank.
>
>As always, any and all advice greatly appreciated.
>
>Also, is a match for the ss rubrail available anywhere anymore?
>
>Lee
>Stargazer #255
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