[Public-List] questions about keel and keel bolts,

Fri Apr 6 03:56:27 PDT 2012

Brian

The A30 has internal ballast which does not require keel bolts

-----Original Message----- 
From: brian curry
Sent: Thursday, April 05, 2012 10:50 PM
To: public-list at lists.alberg30.org
Subject: [Public-List] questions about keel and keel bolts,

I have a question about something I saw a while back.  Do our boats have 
keel bolts?

Brian Curry
Makai #151

> From: public-list-request at lists.alberg30.org
> Subject: Public-List Digest, Vol 2315, Issue 3
> To: public-list at lists.alberg30.org
> Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2012 17:56:21 -0700
>
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> ======================================================
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> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Stock bow water tank circa #329ish (Len Payne)
> 2. North Channel - July? (Len Payne)
> 3. Re: Sealing cockpit coamings (George Dinwiddie)
> 4. Re: North Channel - July? (Gordon Laco)
> 5. Re: Albergers in the South of France Alberg vs Beneteau
> (Stephen Gwyn)
> 6. Battle of the Bolt (Jeffrey)
> 7. Re: Battle of the Bolt (Michael Grosh)
> 8. Re: Battle of the Bolt (crufone at comcast.net)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2012 14:00:29 -0600
> From: "Len Payne" <lenpayne at bresnan.net>
> To: <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> Subject: [Public-List] Stock bow water tank circa #329ish
> Message-ID: <E2A861147E064F749309FF741EF70E61 at sinks3244d14f9>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> Hi, Jim,
> According to the stock drawings of the Alberg 30, that is a factory tank 
> that holds 30 gallons.
> The top of the tank is right at the waterline of the boat, with the "Vee" 
> seat and small drawer just above the water tank.
> Hope that helps.
> Len
> (still up for the circumnavigation? I'm headed to Charlevoix next week to 
> finish the work on "Myranda", my A-35)
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2012 14:05:57 -0600
> From: "Len Payne" <lenpayne at bresnan.net>
> To: <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> Subject: [Public-List] North Channel - July?
> Message-ID: <5043D4099B2148D4B8737C01E5F71258 at sinks3244d14f9>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> John - Brian - care for the company of a A-35?
>
> "Myranda" should be in the water and have passed her 'trials' by then .... 
> and ready for a decent sail.
> Len
> "Myranda" A-35 #192
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2012 16:11:20 -0400
> From: George Dinwiddie <gdinwiddie at alberg30.org>
> To: Bill Newman <newman423 at sympatico.ca>, Alberg 30 Public List --
> open to all <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Sealing cockpit coamings
> Message-ID: <F01C91BD-6984-4B69-9A98-14DD905C63ED at alberg30.org>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
> On Calypso, #543, I cleaned off all the old Dolfenite and used 2"x1/16" (I 
> think, might have been 1/8") neoprene gasket along the top of the 
> Fiberglas behind the coaming. After reassembly, I put a fillet of caulk 
> along this seam, also.
>
> George
>
> Sent from a primitive pocket computer. Please assume all errors are due to 
> that.
>
> On Apr 5, 2012, at 13:58, "Bill Newman" <newman423 at rogers.com> wrote:
>
> > I have removed the cockpit coamings for refinishing on #233 for the 
> > third time since I bought it in 1998. I have been thinking about the 
> > best way to seal them to prevent water on deck from running onto the 
> > seats. The coamings are of the old type with a piece of teak quarter 
> > round on the outboard side. I am thinking that this time I will just 
> > seal the quarter round to the coamings and seal the bottom of the 
> > quarter round to the deck. I don't believe any sealant below this level 
> > will to much good and may trap water that does get past the seal and 
> > cause rot. I will also want to remove them again in a few years so 5200 
> > probably isn't a good idea.
> >
> > Any comments from anyone who has done this will be appreciated.
> >
> > Bill Newman
> > Marion Rose III, #233
> > _______________________________________________
> > These businesses support your Association:
> > http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
> > Please support them.
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> > Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
> > http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Thu, 05 Apr 2012 16:39:09 -0400
> From: Gordon Laco <mainstay at csolve.net>
> To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] North Channel - July?
> Message-ID: <CBA37B2D.7FD7%mainstay at csolve.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
>
> Hello Gents - if you make it to Southern Georgian Bay please be our
> guests... Google Midland Bay Sailing Club.
>
> Gord #426 Surprise
>
>
> On 05/04/12 4:05 PM, "Len Payne" <lenpayne at bresnan.net> wrote:
>
> > John - Brian - care for the company of a A-35?
> >
> > "Myranda" should be in the water and have passed her 'trials' by then 
> > .... and
> > ready for a decent sail.
> > Len
> > "Myranda" A-35 #192
> > _______________________________________________
> > These businesses support your Association:
> > http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
> > Please support them.
> > _______________________________________________
> > Public-List mailing list
> > Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
> > http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2012 14:40:09 -0700
> From: Stephen Gwyn <stephen.gwyn at nrc-cnrc.gc.ca>
> To: "public-list at lists.alberg30.org" <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Albergers in the South of France Alberg vs
> Beneteau
> Message-ID: <4F7E1139.2060205 at nrc-cnrc.gc.ca>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"; format=flowed
>
>
> I'm not sure we would have made it upwind in an Alberg:
> it was blowing pretty hard. But we might have, slowly.
> And we would have been safer and happier. This was a Beneteau 29.
> You really had to keep a hand ready to dump the main to avoid
> broaching. And there were no grab handles down below so the
> boat lurched, you tended to go flying. I've never been seasick
> on an Alberg (except sometimes, when I'm down below). I was
> queasy on this boat, 3 days out of 4. The other day was spent
> in a harbour.
>
> The flat bottom sections meant that if there was even
> 2 inches of chop at the dock, you got kept up all night
> with wave slap.
>
> On the plus side, the galley was much, much better than the
> spartan accommodations on the A30. The amount of back strain
> I've had cooking in the A30 galley is considerable.
>
> SG
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2012 18:51:04 -0400
> From: Jeffrey <alberg30nh at gmail.com>
> To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> Subject: [Public-List] Battle of the Bolt
> Message-ID:
> <CAMRY+94G0etgXWWbh-O5FdEaakwo84SREYT4X2SCyYCnzqzK=Q at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
>
> Yesterday, after days of heating, spraying, tapping, heating and
> waiting..I put the wrench on the one bolt bolt that holds my tiller
> head to the shaft, and of course the head came off. Luckily, there
> was just a little stump of metal sticking out past the shaft that
> prevented me from removing the tiller head which was easy to grind out
> allowing me to remove the tiller head.
>
> Today, with the tiller head out of the picture, I got myself a couple
> of screw extraction kits, which of course failed. The bolt isn't that
> corroded, it just seems to be part of the shaft now. When I drilled
> the hole for the extraction bit, I drilled all the way through the
> bolt since the hole in the shaft also goes clean through.
>
> I could see with a mirror the back side and clear through so with my
> hole evenly centered I, drilled out the hole in the bolt larger and
> larger, moving up in drill bit sizes to where there's not much bolt
> left. I used a chain saw file to further file out the bolt. I got the
> bolt to where just the edges are left. Thinking I could remove this
> like a cutless bearing I put a modified hacksaw blade in the hole to
> create a split, thinking I'd dork up the threads in the bronze but
> cleanly in just the one line. I got the cut finished and still cannot
> remove the steel edges of the bolt.
>
> See: 
> https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/dXMZtCcrcLA_ZZuU9tI0bK3GpdfW2x_hlAS0ffzZ0So?feat=directlink
>
> What I'm thinking now is that I should give up on saving the threads.
> Just drill it all out and tap threads to the next larger size.
> Currently I believe the bolt was 3/8. The hole in front of my tiller
> head measures 7/16. Perhaps I could drill this all out to 7/16 and cut
> some threads for the new 7/16 size. How difficult to tap bronze? I'm
> not expecting much trouble, but one lever knows.
>
> See: 
> https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/RHegX__ChJC4c-bWAsP_F63GpdfW2x_hlAS0ffzZ0So?feat=directlink
>
> Once (if) successful, should I use a steel or bronze bolt for this??
> It would seem that 7/16 bronze is strong enough, but then again the
> bolt is pretty important. Stainless and some anti corrosion substance
> like tef-gel??
>
>
>
> -- 
> Jeffrey Fongemie
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2012 20:13:50 -0400
> From: Michael Grosh <dickdurk at gmail.com>
> To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Battle of the Bolt
> Message-ID:
> <CAO99GuEErE7Cik3WKV22cNAHYm6DzpcRwE2WzSQGkyzhBwCK_w at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
>
> Bronze is a wonderful metal to work with. I stripped the threads holding
> the set screw and installed threads ( I forget the name of the product, 
> but
> they are stainless and have held up well 30 years) after drilling and
> tapping to accommodate them. The set bolt size remains the same.
> I never seize everything on reinstall.
> MichaelGrosh
> #220
> On Apr 5, 2012 6:51 PM, "Jeffrey" <alberg30nh at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Yesterday, after days of heating, spraying, tapping, heating and
> > waiting..I put the wrench on the one bolt bolt that holds my tiller
> > head to the shaft, and of course the head came off. Luckily, there
> > was just a little stump of metal sticking out past the shaft that
> > prevented me from removing the tiller head which was easy to grind out
> > allowing me to remove the tiller head.
> >
> > Today, with the tiller head out of the picture, I got myself a couple
> > of screw extraction kits, which of course failed. The bolt isn't that
> > corroded, it just seems to be part of the shaft now. When I drilled
> > the hole for the extraction bit, I drilled all the way through the
> > bolt since the hole in the shaft also goes clean through.
> >
> > I could see with a mirror the back side and clear through so with my
> > hole evenly centered I, drilled out the hole in the bolt larger and
> > larger, moving up in drill bit sizes to where there's not much bolt
> > left. I used a chain saw file to further file out the bolt. I got the
> > bolt to where just the edges are left. Thinking I could remove this
> > like a cutless bearing I put a modified hacksaw blade in the hole to
> > create a split, thinking I'd dork up the threads in the bronze but
> > cleanly in just the one line. I got the cut finished and still cannot
> > remove the steel edges of the bolt.
> >
> > See:
> > https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/dXMZtCcrcLA_ZZuU9tI0bK3GpdfW2x_hlAS0ffzZ0So?feat=directlink
> >
> > What I'm thinking now is that I should give up on saving the threads.
> > Just drill it all out and tap threads to the next larger size.
> > Currently I believe the bolt was 3/8. The hole in front of my tiller
> > head measures 7/16. Perhaps I could drill this all out to 7/16 and cut
> > some threads for the new 7/16 size. How difficult to tap bronze? I'm
> > not expecting much trouble, but one lever knows.
> >
> > See:
> > https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/RHegX__ChJC4c-bWAsP_F63GpdfW2x_hlAS0ffzZ0So?feat=directlink
> >
> > Once (if) successful, should I use a steel or bronze bolt for this??
> > It would seem that 7/16 bronze is strong enough, but then again the
> > bolt is pretty important. Stainless and some anti corrosion substance
> > like tef-gel??
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > Jeffrey Fongemie
> > _______________________________________________
> > These businesses support your Association:
> > http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
> > Please support them.
> > _______________________________________________
> > Public-List mailing list
> > Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
> > http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
> >
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2012 00:56:21 +0000 (UTC)
> From: crufone at comcast.net
> To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Battle of the Bolt
> Message-ID:
> <1356577774.943589.1333673781474.JavaMail.root at sz0102a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
>
> The trade name is Heli-coil. Produces a thread the same internal size as 
> the original bolt. I would use Anti-seize on anything put together on a 
> boat that would need periodic disassembly. Anti-seize would also work to 
> prevent the stainless to stainless galling which really causes problems 
> when trying to disassemble fittings.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Michael Grosh" <dickdurk at gmail.com>
> To: "Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all" 
> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> Sent: Thursday, April 5, 2012 8:13:50 PM
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Battle of the Bolt
>
> Bronze is a wonderful metal to work with. I stripped the threads holding
> the set screw and installed threads ( I forget the name of the product, 
> but
> they are stainless and have held up well 30 years) after drilling and
> tapping to accommodate them. The set bolt size remains the same.
> I never seize everything on reinstall.
> MichaelGrosh
> #220
> On Apr 5, 2012 6:51 PM, "Jeffrey" <alberg30nh at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Yesterday, after days of heating, spraying, tapping, heating and
> > waiting..I put the wrench on the one bolt bolt that holds my tiller
> > head to the shaft, and of course the head came off. ?Luckily, there
> > was just a little stump of metal sticking out past the shaft that
> > prevented me from removing the tiller head which was easy to grind out
> > allowing me to remove the tiller head.
> >
> > Today, with the tiller head out of the picture, I got myself a couple
> > of screw extraction kits, which of course failed. The bolt isn't that
> > corroded, it just seems to be part of the shaft now. ?When I drilled
> > the hole for the extraction bit, I drilled all the way through the
> > bolt since the hole in the shaft also goes clean through.
> >
> > I could see with a mirror the back side and clear through so with my
> > hole evenly centered I, drilled out the hole in the bolt larger and
> > larger, moving up in drill bit sizes to where there's not much bolt
> > left. I used a chain saw file to further file out the bolt. ?I got the
> > bolt to where just the edges are left. Thinking I could remove this
> > like a cutless bearing I put a modified hacksaw blade in the hole to
> > create a split, thinking I'd dork up the threads in the bronze but
> > cleanly in just the one line. I got the cut finished and still cannot
> > remove the steel edges of the bolt.
> >
> > See:
> > https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/dXMZtCcrcLA_ZZuU9tI0bK3GpdfW2x_hlAS0ffzZ0So?feat=directlink
> >
> > What I'm thinking now is that I should give up on saving the threads.
> > Just drill it all out and tap threads to the next larger size.
> > Currently I believe the bolt was 3/8. The hole in front of my tiller
> > head measures 7/16. Perhaps I could drill this all out to 7/16 and cut
> > some threads for the new 7/16 size. ?How difficult to tap bronze? I'm
> > not expecting much trouble, but one lever knows.
> >
> > See:
> > https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/RHegX__ChJC4c-bWAsP_F63GpdfW2x_hlAS0ffzZ0So?feat=directlink
> >
> > Once (if) successful, ?should I use a steel or bronze bolt for this??
> > It would seem that 7/16 bronze is strong enough, but then again the
> > bolt is pretty important. Stainless and some anti corrosion substance
> > like tef-gel??
> >
> >
> >
> > -- 
> > Jeffrey Fongemie
> > _______________________________________________
> > These businesses support your Association:
> > http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
> > Please support them.
> > _______________________________________________
> > Public-List mailing list
> > Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
> > http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
> >
> _______________________________________________
> These businesses support your Association:
> http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
> Please support them.
> _______________________________________________
> Public-List mailing list
> Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
> http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> These businesses support your Association:
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> Please support them.
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>
> End of Public-List Digest, Vol 2315, Issue 3
> ********************************************

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