[Public-List] Battle of the Bolt

[crufone at comcast.net]

Yes 

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeffrey" <alberg30nh at gmail.com> 
To: "Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all" <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> 
Sent: Thursday, April 5, 2012 9:28:53 PM 
Subject: Re: [Public-List] Battle of the Bolt 

Heli coil did cross my mind, except for the mixing of metals. Wouldn't all 
bronze be better? 
On Apr 5, 2012 8:56 PM, <crufone at comcast.net> wrote: 

> The trade name is Heli-coil. Produces a thread the same internal size as 
> the original bolt. I would use Anti-seize on anything put together on a 
> boat that would need periodic disassembly. Anti-seize would also work to 
> prevent the stainless to stainless galling which really causes problems 
> when trying to disassemble fittings. 
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Michael Grosh" <dickdurk at gmail.com> 
> To: "Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all" <public-list at lists.alberg30.org 
> > 
> Sent: Thursday, April 5, 2012 8:13:50 PM 
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Battle of the Bolt 
> 
> Bronze is a wonderful metal to work with. I stripped the threads holding 
> the set screw and installed threads ( I forget the name of the product, but 
> they are stainless and have held up well 30 years) after drilling and 
> tapping to accommodate them. The set bolt size remains the same. 
> I never seize everything on reinstall. 
> MichaelGrosh 
> #220 
> On Apr 5, 2012 6:51 PM, "Jeffrey" <alberg30nh at gmail.com> wrote: 
> 
> > Yesterday, after days of heating, spraying, tapping, heating and 
> > waiting..I put the wrench on the one bolt bolt that holds my tiller 
> > head to the shaft, and of course the head came off.  Luckily, there 
> > was just a little stump of metal sticking out past the shaft that 
> > prevented me from removing the tiller head which was easy to grind out 
> > allowing me to remove the tiller head. 
> > 
> > Today, with the tiller head out of the picture, I got myself a couple 
> > of screw extraction kits, which of course failed. The bolt isn't that 
> > corroded, it just seems to be part of the shaft now.  When I drilled 
> > the hole for the extraction bit, I drilled all the way through the 
> > bolt since the hole in the shaft also goes clean through. 
> > 
> > I could see with a mirror the back side and clear through so with my 
> > hole evenly centered I, drilled out the hole in the bolt larger and 
> > larger, moving up in drill bit sizes to where there's not much bolt 
> > left. I used a chain saw file to further file out the bolt.  I got the 
> > bolt to where just the edges are left. Thinking I could remove this 
> > like a cutless bearing I put a modified hacksaw blade in the hole to 
> > create a split, thinking I'd dork up the threads in the bronze but 
> > cleanly in just the one line. I got the cut finished and still cannot 
> > remove the steel edges of the bolt. 
> > 
> > See: 
> > 
> https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/dXMZtCcrcLA_ZZuU9tI0bK3GpdfW2x_hlAS0ffzZ0So?feat=directlink 
> > 
> > What I'm thinking now is that I should give up on saving the threads. 
> > Just drill it all out and tap threads to the next larger size. 
> > Currently I believe the bolt was 3/8. The hole in front of my tiller 
> > head measures 7/16. Perhaps I could drill this all out to 7/16 and cut 
> > some threads for the new 7/16 size.  How difficult to tap bronze? I'm 
> > not expecting much trouble, but one lever knows. 
> > 
> > See: 
> > 
> https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/RHegX__ChJC4c-bWAsP_F63GpdfW2x_hlAS0ffzZ0So?feat=directlink 
> > 
> > Once (if) successful,  should I use a steel or bronze bolt for this?? 
> > It would seem that 7/16 bronze is strong enough, but then again the 
> > bolt is pretty important. Stainless and some anti corrosion substance 
> > like tef-gel?? 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > -- 
> > Jeffrey Fongemie 
> > _______________________________________________ 
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