[Public-List] Pu keel bolt question

Kris Coward kris at melon.org
Tue Apr 10 14:03:46 PDT 2012


Nuts that were dropped down there once upon a time?

-K

On Tue, Apr 10, 2012 at 04:48:14PM -0400, brian curry wrote:
> 
> Got my answer on keel bolts, we have internal ballast.  But I think I am seeing something that looks like the head of a bolt (actually a couple of them) in the bilge under the cabin sole.  Could that be?
>  
> 
> > From: public-list-request at lists.alberg30.org
> > Subject: Public-List Digest, Vol 2316, Issue 2
> > To: public-list at lists.alberg30.org
> > Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2012 05:54:37 -0700
> > 
> > Send Public-List mailing list submissions to
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> > than "Re: Contents of Public-List digest..."
> > 
> > 
> > Please do NOT include the entire digest in your reply!
> > ======================================================
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Today's Topics:
> > 
> > 1. Re: questions about keel and keel bolts, (George Dinwiddie)
> > 2. Re: questions about keel and keel bolts, (Mike Lehman)
> > 3. Re: Battle of the Bolt (Mike Lehman)
> > 4. Re: Battle of the Bolt (crufone at comcast.net)
> > 
> > 
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> > 
> > Message: 1
> > Date: Fri, 06 Apr 2012 06:16:06 -0400
> > From: George Dinwiddie <gdinwiddie at alberg30.org>
> > To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
> > <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> > Subject: Re: [Public-List] questions about keel and keel bolts,
> > Message-ID: <4F7EC266.80900 at alberg30.org>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
> > 
> > On 4/5/12 10:50 PM, brian curry wrote:
> > >
> > > I have a question about something I saw a while back. Do our boats
> > > have keel bolts?
> > 
> > No.
> > 
> > -- 
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> > When I remember bygone days George Dinwiddie
> > I think how evening follows morn; gdinwiddie at alberg30.org
> > So many I loved were not yet dead, http://www.Alberg30.org
> > So many I love were not yet born. also see:
> > 'The Middle' by Ogden Nash http://idiacomputing.com
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > ------------------------------
> > 
> > Message: 2
> > Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2012 06:56:27 -0400
> > From: Mike Lehman <sail_505 at hotmail.com>
> > To: "Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all"
> > <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> > Subject: Re: [Public-List] questions about keel and keel bolts,
> > Message-ID: <BAY170-DS48AB97C1254828120DF17EB7300 at phx.gbl>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
> > reply-type=original
> > 
> > Brian
> > 
> > The A30 has internal ballast which does not require keel bolts
> > 
> > -----Original Message----- 
> > From: brian curry
> > Sent: Thursday, April 05, 2012 10:50 PM
> > To: public-list at lists.alberg30.org
> > Subject: [Public-List] questions about keel and keel bolts,
> > 
> > 
> > I have a question about something I saw a while back. Do our boats have 
> > keel bolts?
> > 
> > Brian Curry
> > Makai #151
> > 
> > 
> > > From: public-list-request at lists.alberg30.org
> > > Subject: Public-List Digest, Vol 2315, Issue 3
> > > To: public-list at lists.alberg30.org
> > > Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2012 17:56:21 -0700
> > >
> > > Send Public-List mailing list submissions to
> > > public-list at lists.alberg30.org
> > >
> > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> > > http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
> > > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> > > public-list-request at lists.alberg30.org
> > >
> > > You can reach the person managing the list at
> > > public-list-owner at lists.alberg30.org
> > >
> > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> > > than "Re: Contents of Public-List digest..."
> > >
> > >
> > > Please do NOT include the entire digest in your reply!
> > > ======================================================
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Today's Topics:
> > >
> > > 1. Stock bow water tank circa #329ish (Len Payne)
> > > 2. North Channel - July? (Len Payne)
> > > 3. Re: Sealing cockpit coamings (George Dinwiddie)
> > > 4. Re: North Channel - July? (Gordon Laco)
> > > 5. Re: Albergers in the South of France Alberg vs Beneteau
> > > (Stephen Gwyn)
> > > 6. Battle of the Bolt (Jeffrey)
> > > 7. Re: Battle of the Bolt (Michael Grosh)
> > > 8. Re: Battle of the Bolt (crufone at comcast.net)
> > >
> > >
> > > ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> > >
> > > Message: 1
> > > Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2012 14:00:29 -0600
> > > From: "Len Payne" <lenpayne at bresnan.net>
> > > To: <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> > > Subject: [Public-List] Stock bow water tank circa #329ish
> > > Message-ID: <E2A861147E064F749309FF741EF70E61 at sinks3244d14f9>
> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> > >
> > > Hi, Jim,
> > > According to the stock drawings of the Alberg 30, that is a factory tank 
> > > that holds 30 gallons.
> > > The top of the tank is right at the waterline of the boat, with the "Vee" 
> > > seat and small drawer just above the water tank.
> > > Hope that helps.
> > > Len
> > > (still up for the circumnavigation? I'm headed to Charlevoix next week to 
> > > finish the work on "Myranda", my A-35)
> > >
> > > ------------------------------
> > >
> > > Message: 2
> > > Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2012 14:05:57 -0600
> > > From: "Len Payne" <lenpayne at bresnan.net>
> > > To: <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> > > Subject: [Public-List] North Channel - July?
> > > Message-ID: <5043D4099B2148D4B8737C01E5F71258 at sinks3244d14f9>
> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> > >
> > > John - Brian - care for the company of a A-35?
> > >
> > > "Myranda" should be in the water and have passed her 'trials' by then .... 
> > > and ready for a decent sail.
> > > Len
> > > "Myranda" A-35 #192
> > >
> > > ------------------------------
> > >
> > > Message: 3
> > > Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2012 16:11:20 -0400
> > > From: George Dinwiddie <gdinwiddie at alberg30.org>
> > > To: Bill Newman <newman423 at sympatico.ca>, Alberg 30 Public List --
> > > open to all <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> > > Subject: Re: [Public-List] Sealing cockpit coamings
> > > Message-ID: <F01C91BD-6984-4B69-9A98-14DD905C63ED at alberg30.org>
> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> > >
> > > On Calypso, #543, I cleaned off all the old Dolfenite and used 2"x1/16" (I 
> > > think, might have been 1/8") neoprene gasket along the top of the 
> > > Fiberglas behind the coaming. After reassembly, I put a fillet of caulk 
> > > along this seam, also.
> > >
> > > George
> > >
> > > Sent from a primitive pocket computer. Please assume all errors are due to 
> > > that.
> > >
> > > On Apr 5, 2012, at 13:58, "Bill Newman" <newman423 at rogers.com> wrote:
> > >
> > > > I have removed the cockpit coamings for refinishing on #233 for the 
> > > > third time since I bought it in 1998. I have been thinking about the 
> > > > best way to seal them to prevent water on deck from running onto the 
> > > > seats. The coamings are of the old type with a piece of teak quarter 
> > > > round on the outboard side. I am thinking that this time I will just 
> > > > seal the quarter round to the coamings and seal the bottom of the 
> > > > quarter round to the deck. I don't believe any sealant below this level 
> > > > will to much good and may trap water that does get past the seal and 
> > > > cause rot. I will also want to remove them again in a few years so 5200 
> > > > probably isn't a good idea.
> > > >
> > > > Any comments from anyone who has done this will be appreciated.
> > > >
> > > > Bill Newman
> > > > Marion Rose III, #233
> > > > _______________________________________________
> > > > These businesses support your Association:
> > > > http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
> > > > Please support them.
> > > > _______________________________________________
> > > > Public-List mailing list
> > > > Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
> > > > http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
> > >
> > >
> > > ------------------------------
> > >
> > > Message: 4
> > > Date: Thu, 05 Apr 2012 16:39:09 -0400
> > > From: Gordon Laco <mainstay at csolve.net>
> > > To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
> > > <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> > > Subject: Re: [Public-List] North Channel - July?
> > > Message-ID: <CBA37B2D.7FD7%mainstay at csolve.net>
> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
> > >
> > > Hello Gents - if you make it to Southern Georgian Bay please be our
> > > guests... Google Midland Bay Sailing Club.
> > >
> > > Gord #426 Surprise
> > >
> > >
> > > On 05/04/12 4:05 PM, "Len Payne" <lenpayne at bresnan.net> wrote:
> > >
> > > > John - Brian - care for the company of a A-35?
> > > >
> > > > "Myranda" should be in the water and have passed her 'trials' by then 
> > > > .... and
> > > > ready for a decent sail.
> > > > Len
> > > > "Myranda" A-35 #192
> > > > _______________________________________________
> > > > These businesses support your Association:
> > > > http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
> > > > Please support them.
> > > > _______________________________________________
> > > > Public-List mailing list
> > > > Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
> > > > http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ------------------------------
> > >
> > > Message: 5
> > > Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2012 14:40:09 -0700
> > > From: Stephen Gwyn <stephen.gwyn at nrc-cnrc.gc.ca>
> > > To: "public-list at lists.alberg30.org" <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> > > Subject: Re: [Public-List] Albergers in the South of France Alberg vs
> > > Beneteau
> > > Message-ID: <4F7E1139.2060205 at nrc-cnrc.gc.ca>
> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"; format=flowed
> > >
> > >
> > > I'm not sure we would have made it upwind in an Alberg:
> > > it was blowing pretty hard. But we might have, slowly.
> > > And we would have been safer and happier. This was a Beneteau 29.
> > > You really had to keep a hand ready to dump the main to avoid
> > > broaching. And there were no grab handles down below so the
> > > boat lurched, you tended to go flying. I've never been seasick
> > > on an Alberg (except sometimes, when I'm down below). I was
> > > queasy on this boat, 3 days out of 4. The other day was spent
> > > in a harbour.
> > >
> > > The flat bottom sections meant that if there was even
> > > 2 inches of chop at the dock, you got kept up all night
> > > with wave slap.
> > >
> > > On the plus side, the galley was much, much better than the
> > > spartan accommodations on the A30. The amount of back strain
> > > I've had cooking in the A30 galley is considerable.
> > >
> > > SG
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ------------------------------
> > >
> > > Message: 6
> > > Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2012 18:51:04 -0400
> > > From: Jeffrey <alberg30nh at gmail.com>
> > > To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
> > > <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> > > Subject: [Public-List] Battle of the Bolt
> > > Message-ID:
> > > <CAMRY+94G0etgXWWbh-O5FdEaakwo84SREYT4X2SCyYCnzqzK=Q at mail.gmail.com>
> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
> > >
> > > Yesterday, after days of heating, spraying, tapping, heating and
> > > waiting..I put the wrench on the one bolt bolt that holds my tiller
> > > head to the shaft, and of course the head came off. Luckily, there
> > > was just a little stump of metal sticking out past the shaft that
> > > prevented me from removing the tiller head which was easy to grind out
> > > allowing me to remove the tiller head.
> > >
> > > Today, with the tiller head out of the picture, I got myself a couple
> > > of screw extraction kits, which of course failed. The bolt isn't that
> > > corroded, it just seems to be part of the shaft now. When I drilled
> > > the hole for the extraction bit, I drilled all the way through the
> > > bolt since the hole in the shaft also goes clean through.
> > >
> > > I could see with a mirror the back side and clear through so with my
> > > hole evenly centered I, drilled out the hole in the bolt larger and
> > > larger, moving up in drill bit sizes to where there's not much bolt
> > > left. I used a chain saw file to further file out the bolt. I got the
> > > bolt to where just the edges are left. Thinking I could remove this
> > > like a cutless bearing I put a modified hacksaw blade in the hole to
> > > create a split, thinking I'd dork up the threads in the bronze but
> > > cleanly in just the one line. I got the cut finished and still cannot
> > > remove the steel edges of the bolt.
> > >
> > > See: 
> > > https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/dXMZtCcrcLA_ZZuU9tI0bK3GpdfW2x_hlAS0ffzZ0So?feat=directlink
> > >
> > > What I'm thinking now is that I should give up on saving the threads.
> > > Just drill it all out and tap threads to the next larger size.
> > > Currently I believe the bolt was 3/8. The hole in front of my tiller
> > > head measures 7/16. Perhaps I could drill this all out to 7/16 and cut
> > > some threads for the new 7/16 size. How difficult to tap bronze? I'm
> > > not expecting much trouble, but one lever knows.
> > >
> > > See: 
> > > https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/RHegX__ChJC4c-bWAsP_F63GpdfW2x_hlAS0ffzZ0So?feat=directlink
> > >
> > > Once (if) successful, should I use a steel or bronze bolt for this??
> > > It would seem that 7/16 bronze is strong enough, but then again the
> > > bolt is pretty important. Stainless and some anti corrosion substance
> > > like tef-gel??
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > -- 
> > > Jeffrey Fongemie
> > >
> > >
> > > ------------------------------
> > >
> > > Message: 7
> > > Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2012 20:13:50 -0400
> > > From: Michael Grosh <dickdurk at gmail.com>
> > > To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
> > > <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> > > Subject: Re: [Public-List] Battle of the Bolt
> > > Message-ID:
> > > <CAO99GuEErE7Cik3WKV22cNAHYm6DzpcRwE2WzSQGkyzhBwCK_w at mail.gmail.com>
> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
> > >
> > > Bronze is a wonderful metal to work with. I stripped the threads holding
> > > the set screw and installed threads ( I forget the name of the product, 
> > > but
> > > they are stainless and have held up well 30 years) after drilling and
> > > tapping to accommodate them. The set bolt size remains the same.
> > > I never seize everything on reinstall.
> > > MichaelGrosh
> > > #220
> > > On Apr 5, 2012 6:51 PM, "Jeffrey" <alberg30nh at gmail.com> wrote:
> > >
> > > > Yesterday, after days of heating, spraying, tapping, heating and
> > > > waiting..I put the wrench on the one bolt bolt that holds my tiller
> > > > head to the shaft, and of course the head came off. Luckily, there
> > > > was just a little stump of metal sticking out past the shaft that
> > > > prevented me from removing the tiller head which was easy to grind out
> > > > allowing me to remove the tiller head.
> > > >
> > > > Today, with the tiller head out of the picture, I got myself a couple
> > > > of screw extraction kits, which of course failed. The bolt isn't that
> > > > corroded, it just seems to be part of the shaft now. When I drilled
> > > > the hole for the extraction bit, I drilled all the way through the
> > > > bolt since the hole in the shaft also goes clean through.
> > > >
> > > > I could see with a mirror the back side and clear through so with my
> > > > hole evenly centered I, drilled out the hole in the bolt larger and
> > > > larger, moving up in drill bit sizes to where there's not much bolt
> > > > left. I used a chain saw file to further file out the bolt. I got the
> > > > bolt to where just the edges are left. Thinking I could remove this
> > > > like a cutless bearing I put a modified hacksaw blade in the hole to
> > > > create a split, thinking I'd dork up the threads in the bronze but
> > > > cleanly in just the one line. I got the cut finished and still cannot
> > > > remove the steel edges of the bolt.
> > > >
> > > > See:
> > > > https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/dXMZtCcrcLA_ZZuU9tI0bK3GpdfW2x_hlAS0ffzZ0So?feat=directlink
> > > >
> > > > What I'm thinking now is that I should give up on saving the threads.
> > > > Just drill it all out and tap threads to the next larger size.
> > > > Currently I believe the bolt was 3/8. The hole in front of my tiller
> > > > head measures 7/16. Perhaps I could drill this all out to 7/16 and cut
> > > > some threads for the new 7/16 size. How difficult to tap bronze? I'm
> > > > not expecting much trouble, but one lever knows.
> > > >
> > > > See:
> > > > https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/RHegX__ChJC4c-bWAsP_F63GpdfW2x_hlAS0ffzZ0So?feat=directlink
> > > >
> > > > Once (if) successful, should I use a steel or bronze bolt for this??
> > > > It would seem that 7/16 bronze is strong enough, but then again the
> > > > bolt is pretty important. Stainless and some anti corrosion substance
> > > > like tef-gel??
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --
> > > > Jeffrey Fongemie
> > > > _______________________________________________
> > > > These businesses support your Association:
> > > > http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
> > > > Please support them.
> > > > _______________________________________________
> > > > Public-List mailing list
> > > > Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
> > > > http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ------------------------------
> > >
> > > Message: 8
> > > Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2012 00:56:21 +0000 (UTC)
> > > From: crufone at comcast.net
> > > To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
> > > <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> > > Subject: Re: [Public-List] Battle of the Bolt
> > > Message-ID:
> > > <1356577774.943589.1333673781474.JavaMail.root at sz0102a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
> > >
> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
> > >
> > > The trade name is Heli-coil. Produces a thread the same internal size as 
> > > the original bolt. I would use Anti-seize on anything put together on a 
> > > boat that would need periodic disassembly. Anti-seize would also work to 
> > > prevent the stainless to stainless galling which really causes problems 
> > > when trying to disassemble fittings.
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Michael Grosh" <dickdurk at gmail.com>
> > > To: "Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all" 
> > > <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> > > Sent: Thursday, April 5, 2012 8:13:50 PM
> > > Subject: Re: [Public-List] Battle of the Bolt
> > >
> > > Bronze is a wonderful metal to work with. I stripped the threads holding
> > > the set screw and installed threads ( I forget the name of the product, 
> > > but
> > > they are stainless and have held up well 30 years) after drilling and
> > > tapping to accommodate them. The set bolt size remains the same.
> > > I never seize everything on reinstall.
> > > MichaelGrosh
> > > #220
> > > On Apr 5, 2012 6:51 PM, "Jeffrey" <alberg30nh at gmail.com> wrote:
> > >
> > > > Yesterday, after days of heating, spraying, tapping, heating and
> > > > waiting..I put the wrench on the one bolt bolt that holds my tiller
> > > > head to the shaft, and of course the head came off. ?Luckily, there
> > > > was just a little stump of metal sticking out past the shaft that
> > > > prevented me from removing the tiller head which was easy to grind out
> > > > allowing me to remove the tiller head.
> > > >
> > > > Today, with the tiller head out of the picture, I got myself a couple
> > > > of screw extraction kits, which of course failed. The bolt isn't that
> > > > corroded, it just seems to be part of the shaft now. ?When I drilled
> > > > the hole for the extraction bit, I drilled all the way through the
> > > > bolt since the hole in the shaft also goes clean through.
> > > >
> > > > I could see with a mirror the back side and clear through so with my
> > > > hole evenly centered I, drilled out the hole in the bolt larger and
> > > > larger, moving up in drill bit sizes to where there's not much bolt
> > > > left. I used a chain saw file to further file out the bolt. ?I got the
> > > > bolt to where just the edges are left. Thinking I could remove this
> > > > like a cutless bearing I put a modified hacksaw blade in the hole to
> > > > create a split, thinking I'd dork up the threads in the bronze but
> > > > cleanly in just the one line. I got the cut finished and still cannot
> > > > remove the steel edges of the bolt.
> > > >
> > > > See:
> > > > https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/dXMZtCcrcLA_ZZuU9tI0bK3GpdfW2x_hlAS0ffzZ0So?feat=directlink
> > > >
> > > > What I'm thinking now is that I should give up on saving the threads.
> > > > Just drill it all out and tap threads to the next larger size.
> > > > Currently I believe the bolt was 3/8. The hole in front of my tiller
> > > > head measures 7/16. Perhaps I could drill this all out to 7/16 and cut
> > > > some threads for the new 7/16 size. ?How difficult to tap bronze? I'm
> > > > not expecting much trouble, but one lever knows.
> > > >
> > > > See:
> > > > https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/RHegX__ChJC4c-bWAsP_F63GpdfW2x_hlAS0ffzZ0So?feat=directlink
> > > >
> > > > Once (if) successful, ?should I use a steel or bronze bolt for this??
> > > > It would seem that 7/16 bronze is strong enough, but then again the
> > > > bolt is pretty important. Stainless and some anti corrosion substance
> > > > like tef-gel??
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > -- 
> > > > Jeffrey Fongemie
> > > > _______________________________________________
> > > > These businesses support your Association:
> > > > http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
> > > > Please support them.
> > > > _______________________________________________
> > > > Public-List mailing list
> > > > Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
> > > > http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
> > > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > These businesses support your Association:
> > > http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
> > > Please support them.
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Public-List mailing list
> > > Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
> > > http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
> > >
> > >
> > > ------------------------------
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > These businesses support your Association:
> > > http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
> > > Please support them.
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Public-List mailing list
> > > Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
> > > http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
> > >
> > >
> > > End of Public-List Digest, Vol 2315, Issue 3
> > > ********************************************
> > 
> > _______________________________________________
> > These businesses support your Association:
> > http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
> > Please support them.
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> > 
> > 
> > 
> > ------------------------------
> > 
> > Message: 3
> > Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2012 07:03:28 -0400
> > From: Mike Lehman <sail_505 at hotmail.com>
> > To: "Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all"
> > <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> > Subject: Re: [Public-List] Battle of the Bolt
> > Message-ID: <BAY170-DS303A63AC97FCE1AC5FBE74B7300 at phx.gbl>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
> > reply-type=original
> > 
> > Jeff
> > 
> > I believe that in this application a SS bolt would be fine. You should not 
> > have SS corrosion like you would if the bolt were underwater, like the 
> > rudder shoe bolt.
> > 
> > -----Original Message----- 
> > From: Jeffrey
> > Sent: Thursday, April 05, 2012 6:51 PM
> > To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
> > Subject: [Public-List] Battle of the Bolt
> > 
> > Yesterday, after days of heating, spraying, tapping, heating and
> > waiting..I put the wrench on the one bolt bolt that holds my tiller
> > head to the shaft, and of course the head came off. Luckily, there
> > was just a little stump of metal sticking out past the shaft that
> > prevented me from removing the tiller head which was easy to grind out
> > allowing me to remove the tiller head.
> > 
> > Today, with the tiller head out of the picture, I got myself a couple
> > of screw extraction kits, which of course failed. The bolt isn't that
> > corroded, it just seems to be part of the shaft now. When I drilled
> > the hole for the extraction bit, I drilled all the way through the
> > bolt since the hole in the shaft also goes clean through.
> > 
> > I could see with a mirror the back side and clear through so with my
> > hole evenly centered I, drilled out the hole in the bolt larger and
> > larger, moving up in drill bit sizes to where there's not much bolt
> > left. I used a chain saw file to further file out the bolt. I got the
> > bolt to where just the edges are left. Thinking I could remove this
> > like a cutless bearing I put a modified hacksaw blade in the hole to
> > create a split, thinking I'd dork up the threads in the bronze but
> > cleanly in just the one line. I got the cut finished and still cannot
> > remove the steel edges of the bolt.
> > 
> > See: 
> > https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/dXMZtCcrcLA_ZZuU9tI0bK3GpdfW2x_hlAS0ffzZ0So?feat=directlink
> > 
> > What I'm thinking now is that I should give up on saving the threads.
> > Just drill it all out and tap threads to the next larger size.
> > Currently I believe the bolt was 3/8. The hole in front of my tiller
> > head measures 7/16. Perhaps I could drill this all out to 7/16 and cut
> > some threads for the new 7/16 size. How difficult to tap bronze? I'm
> > not expecting much trouble, but one lever knows.
> > 
> > See: 
> > https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/RHegX__ChJC4c-bWAsP_F63GpdfW2x_hlAS0ffzZ0So?feat=directlink
> > 
> > Once (if) successful, should I use a steel or bronze bolt for this??
> > It would seem that 7/16 bronze is strong enough, but then again the
> > bolt is pretty important. Stainless and some anti corrosion substance
> > like tef-gel??
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > -- 
> > Jeffrey Fongemie
> > _______________________________________________
> > These businesses support your Association:
> > http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
> > Please support them.
> > _______________________________________________
> > Public-List mailing list
> > Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
> > http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > ------------------------------
> > 
> > Message: 4
> > Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2012 12:54:35 +0000 (UTC)
> > From: crufone at comcast.net
> > To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
> > <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> > Subject: Re: [Public-List] Battle of the Bolt
> > Message-ID:
> > <1072821579.955470.1333716875689.JavaMail.root at sz0102a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
> > 
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
> > 
> > Yes 
> > 
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Jeffrey" <alberg30nh at gmail.com> 
> > To: "Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all" <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> 
> > Sent: Thursday, April 5, 2012 9:28:53 PM 
> > Subject: Re: [Public-List] Battle of the Bolt 
> > 
> > Heli coil did cross my mind, except for the mixing of metals. Wouldn't all 
> > bronze be better? 
> > On Apr 5, 2012 8:56 PM, <crufone at comcast.net> wrote: 
> > 
> > > The trade name is Heli-coil. Produces a thread the same internal size as 
> > > the original bolt. I would use Anti-seize on anything put together on a 
> > > boat that would need periodic disassembly. Anti-seize would also work to 
> > > prevent the stainless to stainless galling which really causes problems 
> > > when trying to disassemble fittings. 
> > > 
> > > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > > From: "Michael Grosh" <dickdurk at gmail.com> 
> > > To: "Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all" <public-list at lists.alberg30.org 
> > > > 
> > > Sent: Thursday, April 5, 2012 8:13:50 PM 
> > > Subject: Re: [Public-List] Battle of the Bolt 
> > > 
> > > Bronze is a wonderful metal to work with. I stripped the threads holding 
> > > the set screw and installed threads ( I forget the name of the product, but 
> > > they are stainless and have held up well 30 years) after drilling and 
> > > tapping to accommodate them. The set bolt size remains the same. 
> > > I never seize everything on reinstall. 
> > > MichaelGrosh 
> > > #220 
> > > On Apr 5, 2012 6:51 PM, "Jeffrey" <alberg30nh at gmail.com> wrote: 
> > > 
> > > > Yesterday, after days of heating, spraying, tapping, heating and 
> > > > waiting..I put the wrench on the one bolt bolt that holds my tiller 
> > > > head to the shaft, and of course the head came off. ?Luckily, there 
> > > > was just a little stump of metal sticking out past the shaft that 
> > > > prevented me from removing the tiller head which was easy to grind out 
> > > > allowing me to remove the tiller head. 
> > > > 
> > > > Today, with the tiller head out of the picture, I got myself a couple 
> > > > of screw extraction kits, which of course failed. The bolt isn't that 
> > > > corroded, it just seems to be part of the shaft now. ?When I drilled 
> > > > the hole for the extraction bit, I drilled all the way through the 
> > > > bolt since the hole in the shaft also goes clean through. 
> > > > 
> > > > I could see with a mirror the back side and clear through so with my 
> > > > hole evenly centered I, drilled out the hole in the bolt larger and 
> > > > larger, moving up in drill bit sizes to where there's not much bolt 
> > > > left. I used a chain saw file to further file out the bolt. ?I got the 
> > > > bolt to where just the edges are left. Thinking I could remove this 
> > > > like a cutless bearing I put a modified hacksaw blade in the hole to 
> > > > create a split, thinking I'd dork up the threads in the bronze but 
> > > > cleanly in just the one line. I got the cut finished and still cannot 
> > > > remove the steel edges of the bolt. 
> > > > 
> > > > See: 
> > > > 
> > > https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/dXMZtCcrcLA_ZZuU9tI0bK3GpdfW2x_hlAS0ffzZ0So?feat=directlink 
> > > > 
> > > > What I'm thinking now is that I should give up on saving the threads. 
> > > > Just drill it all out and tap threads to the next larger size. 
> > > > Currently I believe the bolt was 3/8. The hole in front of my tiller 
> > > > head measures 7/16. Perhaps I could drill this all out to 7/16 and cut 
> > > > some threads for the new 7/16 size. ?How difficult to tap bronze? I'm 
> > > > not expecting much trouble, but one lever knows. 
> > > > 
> > > > See: 
> > > > 
> > > https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/RHegX__ChJC4c-bWAsP_F63GpdfW2x_hlAS0ffzZ0So?feat=directlink 
> > > > 
> > > > Once (if) successful, ?should I use a steel or bronze bolt for this?? 
> > > > It would seem that 7/16 bronze is strong enough, but then again the 
> > > > bolt is pretty important. Stainless and some anti corrosion substance 
> > > > like tef-gel?? 
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > -- 
> > > > Jeffrey Fongemie 
> > > > _______________________________________________ 
> > > > These businesses support your Association: 
> > > > http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html 
> > > > Please support them. 
> > > > _______________________________________________ 
> > > > Public-List mailing list 
> > > > Public-List at lists.alberg30.org 
> > > > http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org 
> > > > 
> > > _______________________________________________ 
> > > These businesses support your Association: 
> > > http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html 
> > > Please support them. 
> > > _______________________________________________ 
> > > Public-List mailing list 
> > > Public-List at lists.alberg30.org 
> > > http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org 
> > > _______________________________________________ 
> > > These businesses support your Association: 
> > > http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html 
> > > Please support them. 
> > > _______________________________________________ 
> > > Public-List mailing list 
> > > Public-List at lists.alberg30.org 
> > > http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org 
> > > 
> > _______________________________________________ 
> > These businesses support your Association: 
> > http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html 
> > Please support them. 
> > _______________________________________________ 
> > Public-List mailing list 
> > Public-List at lists.alberg30.org 
> > http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org 
> > 
> > 
> > ------------------------------
> > 
> > _______________________________________________
> > These businesses support your Association:
> > http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
> > Please support them.
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> > 
> > 
> > End of Public-List Digest, Vol 2316, Issue 2
> > ********************************************
>  		 	   		  
> _______________________________________________
> These businesses support your Association:
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> Please support them.
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-- 
Kris Coward					http://unripe.melon.org/
GPG Fingerprint: 2BF3 957D 310A FEEC 4733  830E 21A4 05C7 1FEB 12B3

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