[Public-List] Tiller Head - I'm stuck!
crufone at comcast.net
crufone at comcast.net
Wed Apr 4 16:27:09 PDT 2012
Jeff,
I would be a little concerned with heating the fitting to a great temperature for too long a time period. My thought is that the heat will eventually travel down the rudder stock and heat up the fiberglass tube it passes thru on the non-liner boats. This heat if excessive could damage the fiberglass and cause it to leak in the future. This is also in a remote place where it is hard if not impossible to check while you are heating the fitting. I assume that you are going to double check this tube for structural integrity as part of your rudder repair.
The scenario comes to mind where a home owner eventually set his home on fire by using a heat gun for several hours to soften and remove paint. He heated up the wall cavity to a point where it set the insulation on fire ...............none of which he could see from his vantage point on the outside of the house.
What I am suggesting is to heat up the fitting .............. good and hot and let it cool down for quite a while before heating again. Mainly because you can't feel or determine how much heat is transfered to where you can't observe it.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeffrey" <fongemie at gmail.com>
To: "Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all" <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
Sent: Tuesday, April 3, 2012 8:45:56 AM
Subject: Re: [Public-List] Tiller Head - I'm stuck!
I have not tried CRC Freeze Off, but I need to go to town today so
I'll pick some up. The more I think about it, I'm a bit nervous about
adding much more heat. Bronze can melt at 2000 degF or less. I can be
patient.
I like the idea of immersing the whole tiller head in solvent. I'm
wondering what the solvents won't dissolve? Could I zip tie a latex or
butyl inner tube section around the shaft, then fill it up with
solvent? Might be worth an experiment. I don't want to dork up the
fixture itself.
On another note, I'm finally putting some time into bringing back the
hull. I got a new Makita polisher:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/IOS2XxW4tIuO275NqvTAh5s2JjFi0EBE9QO4WtaoFco?feat=directlink
Much more fun than wrestling with old rusty bolts.
-jeff
Jeff Fongemie
#116 Seagrass
http://picasaweb.google.com/fongemie
On Tue, Apr 3, 2012 at 7:31 AM, Mike Lehman <sail_505 at hotmail.com> wrote:
> Has anyone tried CRC Freeze Off....it works great, mucho better than PB
> Blaster or anything else. When you spray it on it bubbles up (like scrubbing
> bubbles) eating away at corrosion. I found it at the auto supply store.
>
> -----Original Message----- From: crufone at comcast.net
> Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2012 7:19 AM
> To: fongemie at gmail.com ; Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
>
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Tiller Head - I'm stuck!
>
>
>
> Jeff,
>
> This might sound obvious, but try alternately loosening and tightening the
> bolt as you attempt to extract it. You may end up resorting to Process two.
> Drilling out the bolt. It can be done just do so with the idea that this is
> the only fitting left on earth and then you will be extra careful. Use many
> new drills to keep them sharp and on center. A dull bit tends to walk off
> center.
>
> Michael
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>
>
>
> From: "Jeffrey" <fongemie at gmail.com>
> To: "Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all" <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> Sent: Monday, April 2, 2012 1:39:41 PM
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Tiller Head - I'm stuck!
>
> Glenn, no with the propane torch I have I can't get the bolt red hot. I
> think the bolt, head & shaft together make too much of a heat sink.
>
> I'm going to see if I can scrounge up a Mapp gas touch. Thanks for the
> complements on the woodwork. I love working with wood, hate working with
> nuts & bolts, fiberglass.
>
> -Jeff
>
> Jeff Fongemie
> #116 Seagrass
>
> http://picasaweb.google.com/fongemie
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Mon, Apr 2, 2012 at 11:47 AM, Glennb <brooks.glenn at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> hi Jeff, Did you heat the bolt to red hot? Iam surprised it didn't back
>> out of the bronze shaft.
>>
>> Any chance the other end is peened...hammered into a mushroom shape to
>> prevent extraction?
>>
>> BTW, your rebuild photos on line are fantastic. great wood working and
>> varnish!
>>
>> Glenn B
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> On Apr 2, 2012, at 7:39 AM, Gordon Laco <mainstay at csolve.net> wrote:
>>
>> > Wish I had real advice to offer....
>> >
>> >
>> > On 02/04/12 10:07 AM, "Jeffrey" <fongemie at gmail.com> wrote:
>> >
>> >> End of day two:
>> >>
>> >> Bolt 2
>> >> Me 0
>> >>
>> >> -jeff
>> >>
>> >> Jeff Fongemie
>> >> #116 Seagrass
>> >>
>> >> http://picasaweb.google.com/fongemie
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> On Sun, Apr 1, 2012 at 1:25 PM, Gordon Laco <mainstay at csolve.net>
>> wrote:
>> >>
>> >>> Thanks - that's high praise
>> >>>
>> >>> G
>> >>>
>> >>> On 2012-04-01, at 10:43 AM, dan walker <dsailormon at yahoo.com> wrote:
>> >>>
>> >>>> gord, i see you have been taking writing lessons from mowatt..
>> >>>>
>> >>>>
>> >>>>
>> >>>> ________________________________
>> >>>> From: Gordon Laco <mainstay at csolve.net>
>> >>>> To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all <
>> public-list at lists.alberg30.org
>> >>>>
>> >>>> Sent: Saturday, March 31, 2012 7:45 PM
>> >>>> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Tiller Head - I'm stuck!
>> >>>>
>> >>>> I deal with old fastenings like this:
>> >>>>
>> >>>> First one must "Address the bolt" and apply various techniques
>> involving
>> >>>> cursing the bolt, one's tools, the whole boat, etc. Second one
>> >>>> >>>> must
>> >>> "Get
>> >>>> the bolt's attention" which involves hitting it smartly on the head
>> with
>> >>> a
>> >>>> hammer. If one does this before the first wrench is applied, the
>> bolt
>> >>> will
>> >>>> know that this is a battle to the death that it cannot win.
>> >>>>
>> >>>> Success in the whole procedure hinges upon not losing the moral high
>> >>> ground
>> >>>> and letting the bolt dictate what your next action will be and how
>> >>>> >>>> the
>> >>> job
>> >>>> was going to go. You must keep the initiative.
>> >>>>
>> >>>> Applying all one's available resources at the first go is a mistake,
>> >>> because
>> >>>> if the attack fails, clearly the bolt now has the upper hand knowing
>> >>> you've
>> >>>> already played your best cards. The bolt will face your next attempt
>> >>> secure
>> >>>> in the knowledge that it has soundly beaten you once, and it may beat
>> you
>> >>>> again.
>> >>>>
>> >>>> Better to use gradually increasing levels of force. This keeps the
>> upper
>> >>>> hand in your court, because the bolt soon must know that if it has
>> >>> resisted
>> >>>> the most recent assault, that victory is hollow and means nothing,
>> >>> because
>> >>>> recent history would indicate that you will be back and with more
>> force,
>> >>> in
>> >>>> only a moment. You keep your morale high, you may even laugh, while
>> the
>> >>>> bolt's morale simply must get lower and lower until it knows when it
>> is
>> >>>> exhausted, it ultimately must give up.
>> >>> _______________________________________________
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>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>> > _______________________________________________
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>
>
>
> --
> Jeffrey Fongemie
> _______________________________________________
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--
Jeffrey Fongemie
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