[Public-List] Battle of the Bolt

[Jeffrey]

Heli coil did cross my mind, except for the mixing of metals. Wouldn't all
bronze be better?
On Apr 5, 2012 8:56 PM, <crufone at comcast.net> wrote:

> The trade name is Heli-coil. Produces a thread the same internal size as
> the original bolt. I would use Anti-seize on anything put together on a
> boat that would need periodic disassembly. Anti-seize would also work to
> prevent the stainless to stainless galling which really causes problems
> when trying to disassemble fittings.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Michael Grosh" <dickdurk at gmail.com>
> To: "Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all" <public-list at lists.alberg30.org
> >
> Sent: Thursday, April 5, 2012 8:13:50 PM
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Battle of the Bolt
>
> Bronze is a wonderful metal to work with. I stripped the threads holding
> the set screw and installed threads ( I forget the name of the product, but
> they are stainless and have held up well 30 years) after drilling and
> tapping to accommodate them. The set bolt size remains the same.
> I never seize everything on reinstall.
> MichaelGrosh
> #220
> On Apr 5, 2012 6:51 PM, "Jeffrey" <alberg30nh at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Yesterday, after days of heating, spraying, tapping, heating and
> > waiting..I put the wrench on the one bolt bolt that holds my tiller
> > head to the shaft, and of course the head came off.  Luckily, there
> > was just a little stump of metal sticking out past the shaft that
> > prevented me from removing the tiller head which was easy to grind out
> > allowing me to remove the tiller head.
> >
> > Today, with the tiller head out of the picture, I got myself a couple
> > of screw extraction kits, which of course failed. The bolt isn't that
> > corroded, it just seems to be part of the shaft now.  When I drilled
> > the hole for the extraction bit, I drilled all the way through the
> > bolt since the hole in the shaft also goes clean through.
> >
> > I could see with a mirror the back side and clear through so with my
> > hole evenly centered I, drilled out the hole in the bolt larger and
> > larger, moving up in drill bit sizes to where there's not much bolt
> > left. I used a chain saw file to further file out the bolt.  I got the
> > bolt to where just the edges are left. Thinking I could remove this
> > like a cutless bearing I put a modified hacksaw blade in the hole to
> > create a split, thinking I'd dork up the threads in the bronze but
> > cleanly in just the one line. I got the cut finished and still cannot
> > remove the steel edges of the bolt.
> >
> > See:
> >
> https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/dXMZtCcrcLA_ZZuU9tI0bK3GpdfW2x_hlAS0ffzZ0So?feat=directlink
> >
> > What I'm thinking now is that I should give up on saving the threads.
> > Just drill it all out and tap threads to the next larger size.
> > Currently I believe the bolt was 3/8. The hole in front of my tiller
> > head measures 7/16. Perhaps I could drill this all out to 7/16 and cut
> > some threads for the new 7/16 size.  How difficult to tap bronze? I'm
> > not expecting much trouble, but one lever knows.
> >
> > See:
> >
> https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/RHegX__ChJC4c-bWAsP_F63GpdfW2x_hlAS0ffzZ0So?feat=directlink
> >
> > Once (if) successful,  should I use a steel or bronze bolt for this??
> > It would seem that 7/16 bronze is strong enough, but then again the
> > bolt is pretty important. Stainless and some anti corrosion substance
> > like tef-gel??
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > Jeffrey Fongemie
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