[Public-List] Hull Numbers

[Gordon Laco]

Thanks Mike.

Like I said, I was just back from another night at 'Ma Murphy's' here in
Bantry....


On 28/07/12 7:57 AM, "Mike Lehman" <sail_505 at hotmail.com> wrote:

> 30 (length) 69 (year) 382 (hull number)

For a description on the hull numbers
> go to...
http://alberg30.org/boat/numbers.html

For a history of an individual
> boat go to...
http://alberg30.org/boat/A30BoatHistory.xls


Mike
> Lehman

><((((º>`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
-----Original
> Message----- 
From: Jeremy Brown
Sent: Saturday, July 28, 2012 1:07 AM
To:
> Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
Subject: Re: [Public-List] Hello
> fromVancouver. (Somewhat)proud newowner of 
Antares 1967 A30.

Hmm.  My
> understanding was the reverse, that the middle two were year, 
didn't think
> they still made them by 84?

Before I forget, Re: chain plates, mine appear
> already upgraded, with 
stainless backing plates on opposite side etc.  One
> owner really loved her, 
a later one sadly abused her quite badly.



Gordon
> Laco <mainstay at csolve.net> wrote:

Hi Jeremy

That number indicates you've got
> an Alberg 30, hull number 693, built in '82

Gord #426 Surprise. (3042670)

On
> 2012-07-28, at 5:26 AM, Jeremy Brown <j_l_brown at shaw.ca> wrote:

> Should I
> still remove tabbing since it is unbroken?  I have pictures of my 
> mast step
> and the sticker on it which is all I could find for identifying 
> marks, blue
> water spars out of north Vancouver.  Hull plate says 3069382, 
> so I suppose
> I'm hull 382, anyone know any history on it?
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Jeremy
>
> Mike
> Lehman <sail_505 at hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> Jeremy
>
> You are welcome. I look
> forward to getting progress reports. Mike 
> Meinhold,
> owner of #272,
> commented that you should not loosen the rigging too much 
> at
> a time, only
> enough to put slack in the rig, then jack up the beam until 
> the
> rigging
> is tight, then loosen the rigging some more, etc. He learned this
> the hard
> way earlier this year.
>
> I would not worry about deforming the deck...just
> take it slow.
>
>
>
> Mike Lehman
>
>>
> <((((º>`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> -----Original Message-----
> 
> From: Jeremy Brown
> Sent: Friday, July 27, 2012 11:43 AM
> To: Alberg 30
> Public List -- open to all
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Hello from Vancouver.
> (Somewhat)proud newowner 
> of
> Antares 1967 A30.
>
> Thank you so much:)
> that's going to be so valuable when it comes time to 
> do
> it.
> That's
> exactly my suspicion with the screws.
>
> My understanding of the depression
> was exactly that, but the tabbing on 
> the
> back is totally unbroken, and
> the deck has no depression.  A different
> surveyor and two experienced boat
> people looked at it.  They were puzzled 
> by
> the obvious depression in the
> underside as the deck looks perfect on top.
> One said that the way the
> fiberglass tape goes around the trim, and the
> other edges make it appear
> that the deck was cut out and returned inside
> only.
> I'm worried about
> distorting the outside deck when I move it back into
> place.
>
>
>
>
> Mike
> Lehman <sail_505 at hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> Jeremy
>
> The long screws through
> the bottom provide no support at all. Once they 
> are
> removed you may find
> that the delamination is more pronounced, if the 
> screws
> are holding the
> layers together.
>
> An understanding of how the beam was originally
> constructed and why it
> failed is helpful to understand how it can be
> repaired.
>
> 1. Whitby Boat works used the wrong kind of glue to laminate the
> beam. 
> Maybe
> it was the only kind available at the time the boats were
> manufactured. 
> The
> glue failed and the laminations
> s
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