[Public-List] Glassed in coamings?

John Boor mahseer at kos.net
Fri Jun 8 11:07:14 PDT 2012


Glenn.

You have 318 I had 380 and found that when I removed my cap it was
attached by #8 SS machine screws.  The actual deck was secured by 1/4" 20
SS bolts into fibreglass.  The cap rail in my humble opinion did nothing
towards securing the deck to the hull.

John Boor
ex#380 MAHSEER


> Hello Jim,
>
> I just replaced my toe rails because of similar wear and tear, although my
> rails were starting to leak and the wood was starting to rot  in several
> places.  FYI, teak is $32 to $45/ board foot these days, and my materials
> cost to replace with new teak was around $1500 for the material.  plus 1
> 1/4 wide  teak boards are VERY difficult  if not impossible to bend around
> the radius of the boats. I think Whitby milled the original rails in
> curved sections and glued them up- a major feat without a proper jig to
> replicate the curvature of the hull.
>
>
> however, the rail acts as a clamp, holding the deck to the hull, so you
> must have a very solid, continuous bolted structure all around the boat.
> without the rail,   the deck  is held on the boat with only a few pop
> rivets, which in my opinion are not strong enuf to hold the boat together
> when sailing. I think glass over plywood rails would leak badly and rot.
> at least water intrusion through the bolt holes would delaminated the
> plywood and cause the structural integrity to fail, possibly within two or
> three years. Also hand laying FG covering over plywood would present a
> rough molted surface that would require extensive finish sanding to look
> good.
>
>
>
> Alternately You could replace the rails with  prefab aluminum toe rail
> material, or mill new wood rails and bolt on to replicate the original.
>
> I opted to replace my rails with 3 3/4" Sapelle bulwarks, (nicknamed
> 'African Mahogny)' and caped the top with a 5/8" teak flat covering rail.
>   it was a big job.  Took a good deal of work over two months to mill and
> fit the bulwarks.  then cut, shaped and steam bent 12' lengths of vertical
> grain teak to accept the radius of the  boat.  Over all it came out really
> nice, although it was a lot of work with a power planner to cut the ever
> changing height and side radius of the wood to conform to the vertical
> offset of the hull and deck.  I hired a young man to help bolt the rail
> back.  60 1/4" x 5" ss flat head bolts each side, plus 20 more to hold
> down the genoa track.
>
> FYI, new molded genoa track, formed into an H bar shape is the only way to
> go!  I didn't replace my old track with modern cast track, and now wish I
> did.
>
> Be interesting to hear what you decide and  what others have done.
>
> Cheers
> Glenn
> dolce 318
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Jun 7, 2012, at 5:41 PM, James Almond <okeebc at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> The teak coamings on (now off) of my boat are not in very good shape.
>> They
>> appear to have been cleaned, sanded, varnished and weathered to a
>> fraction
>> of they're former self. Each came off in two pieces and are thin. Each
>> spot
>> that was formerly covered by a hardware washer stands a good 1/16" proud
>> of
>> the surrounding wood.
>>
>> The cost of new teak coamings, protruding nuts/bolts and maintenance all
>> have me thinking to replace with 3/4" (or 1/2") marine plywood glassed
>> in
>> with bronze hardware countersunk and/or embedded. The problem I have
>> with
>> this idea is boat flex and what that might do to the new glass
>> connections
>> and surrounding unfortified deck.
>>
>> I want strength, a little added height, low maintenance and no bolts in
>> my
>> back. I do not want to F up the boat either though.
>>
>> Good or bad idea? Alternatives?
>>
>> Thanks in advance for weighing in,
>> Jim
>> http://svcookie.blogspot.com/
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